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Same as before... We have a group that meets twice a month in Glasgow if that is any good? The website seems to be down, but we are still active.
by
Justblair
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United Kingdom RepRap User Group
I have a pretty well tuned Prusa 3 based printer that has an heated chamber. I have built a Mark 2 in the past. They are ok, but tricky to set up compared to later designs.
I meet up with a group of likeminded individuals
We have a Mkii there which we built as a group. You are more than welcome to come along. I wont be at the next meet 15/5 because of other commitments. Best thing to do
by
Justblair
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United Kingdom RepRap User Group
Google acetone vapour smoothing and you will get lots of advice on this technique, but essentially what I do is this.
I place the part on an elevated platform inside a storage tub which sits on my heated print bed.
I pour a little acetone in the base of the tub.
With the lid on I heat the print bed to 90c which is hot enough to turn the acetone to vapour.
I leave the part for around 5-10 min
by
Justblair
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RUG-MY
Sorry it's a rotten picture but this might help
Google+ piccie
The white wire detects the Sd card. The pins it is soldered to is normally 3v. I cut the trace on the board to disconnect the pin from the 3v trace and then soldered the white wire to the broken trace on the pin side.
by
Justblair
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Controllers
billyzelsnack Wrote:
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> Excellent work and nice writeup.
Thanks, if you see anything obviously wrong please tell me. Are you going to partake in some wifi goodness?
by
Justblair
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Controllers
Yep i tend to agree. I managed to upload a print to the SD card using the wireless link and it worked well. There is no getting over the slowness though.
On the other hand being able to pre-heat the printer from the front room downstairs is quite handy. Checking status etc should be interesting.
Compared to a Pi though, this method is cheaper.
by
Justblair
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Controllers
This is the outcome from a previous thread, but as I have made progress I thought it merited a more apt title.
I have managed to attach a HLK-RM04 module to the Aux-1 port on my RAMPs board and by using a Virtual Serial Port on my PC. This means that software that controls the Arduino normally via it's USB-Serial can with no modification now control the RepRap over a wireless network or by ethe
by
Justblair
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Controllers
Traumflug Wrote:
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> There is no technical need for auto-reset. It's
> more a convenience for easy firmware upload. In
> fact, Melzi has a jumper to turn this off.
>
> If you don't reset, you find the controller in
> exactly the same state you left it the last time
> after reconnecting. Or in the just-after-reset
> sta
by
Justblair
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Controllers
Just to give you an update...
I have not had as much time to work on this I would have liked.
Here is the good news.
I can setup the module to work as a serial connection to the Arduino and talk to it over either wifi or ethernet. This is pretty good going and allows me to use these modules as connected sensors. Not only that they can extend my home wireless network as well! The Serial tha
by
Justblair
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Controllers
Well the modules I ordered arrived. I have not had a lot of success with the so far
They appear operational, I have as yet been unable to ping them as the instructions suggetst that I should be able to do. I also have been unable to communicate to them with the Arduino. My logic analyser is telling me that the Arduino is sending characters as per the sketch. So it would appear that there is
by
Justblair
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Controllers
Holy Arduino compatible markup!
Same component count, double the price...
by
Justblair
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Controllers
The module is communicated to via udp or tcp/ip. I don't know of a way to alter the tool path of say arduino or similar to output raw tcp. If there is a way to emulate a company port with a tcp socket client/server that might work.
*** Edit ***
Google is my friend
by
Justblair
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Controllers
What purpose do you have in mind for the modules?
A couple of points to raise
QuoteSomeone swapped out the firmware
Have you read the wiki about how this is done? The flash memory must be removed from the board and updated before re-soldering. Thats a pretty tricky job for most folks.
However that does not mean that the unit is useless. I have ordered a couple of dev boards from aliexpr
by
Justblair
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Controllers
Simba Wrote:
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> - What thermal fuses?
> - How does a heater overheat?
> - Mosfet overload is a real possibility, but
> unlikely at these power drains. RAMPS was
> designed for 11Amp/5amp draw at least, and at 27V
> potentially (33?, 36?).
By Burnout I mean that the tracks or the resistor is damaged by the current passing t
by
Justblair
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Developers
As far as cautious, they are clearly using higher resistance values to prevent higher currents through the heater. What they are protecting, I am not so sure. Thinking it through it could either be:
Heater Resistor / Heated Print Bed burnout Mosfet overload Thermal fuses tripping
I am not sure.
How did I know that you were not using a HPB?
QuoteI imagine that would work A LOT better wit
by
Justblair
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Developers
Interesting. Others have been more cautious with the heater resistance... I guess you are not using a heated print bed?
by
Justblair
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Developers
Can you outline the steps you took to get to 24v?
Did you change the heater resistor?
Did you modify your HPB?
I have read about this, but was uncertain what other mods were required.
by
Justblair
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Developers
Have a look at this study, should give you some comfort
Short answer... No problem
by
Justblair
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General
Have you considered asking for your changes to be merged into the existing code?
I reckon you might need to wrap your changes into #ifdef statements as this is not a menu choices that will suit everyone.
by
Justblair
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RAMPS Electronics
jakowisp Wrote:
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> I have good results of printing ABS.
>
> I use kapton tape on glass. Bed temp is 110, and
> extruder is 230 for first layer.
>
> To fight warping use a cooling fan and 'Brim".
> Don't enable the fan for the first few layers.
I was running this setup until recently (well, 240c, 100c, PET tape). I th
by
Justblair
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General
Glasgow Sculpture Studios 3D printer build room
Here at Glasgow sculpture studios we are manufacturing 3D printers from welded steel and perspex today and tomorrow (19-20/10/2010 Please check-in on us from time to time to see how we are getting on.
Blair
by
Justblair
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General
This Friday and Saturday we are doing what I hope will be a fairly unique Reprap build at Glasgow Sculpture Studios.
QuoteFriday 19 & Saturday 20 October 10am – 10pm (2 day event) Workshop (Professional) If you’re an artist, curator or other arts professional please join us for a two, 12 hour day build event that will oversee the creation of a new open-source 3D printer developed by GSS an
by
Justblair
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United Kingdom RepRap User Group
www.thingiverse.com/thing:15606
This brace does a very good job of stiffening the frame in the plane you are referring to. After that to make a difference you should look at men delivery flavours of printer. The Mendel 90 for instance looks to have resolved the issue. I am building something even more solid as we speak. I ;o)
by
Justblair
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General Mendel Topics
I print ABS at 240c. I got my material from reprapsource and they were clever enough to put a sticker on the side with their recommended temperature.
I get best results with no fan on
by
Justblair
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Printing
VDX Wrote:
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> ... reduce the temperature of the heated bed -
> this 'elefant-foots' are an effect of too much
> heat while printing the first layers ...
I concur. Drop down a few degrees at a time till the problem goes away. I had the same problem with ABS prints I found 5c made the difference,
by
Justblair
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General
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