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@Arvin looks like you've had great progress while I was away!
Somethings you might consider trying:
Instead of wire or cable consider using Dacron fishing line. It is woven very strong, has minimal stretch and has excellent grip when wrapped around things. I bet you would only need 2 or 3 wraps around the dowel.
How about notching the dowel or inserting a smaller section of dowel in the middl
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bjbsquared
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General
sircastor Wrote:
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> I'm not big on the DIY leadscrew, I think because
> it feels like a bit of a project itself....
I have come up with another way. I will be trying both out.
Threadless Drive Screw
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bjbsquared
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General
For myself, I don't feel the need for modular design. This may be something to tackle down the road but for now I think we need to get a base repStrap that is affordable, reliable and buildable by the "average" personal with an "average" maker skill set. Adding modularity would, at least at this point, be too confining the progress toward those attributes.
Also, the only reason that I can think
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bjbsquared
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General
@Arvin. This is very COOL! We need more people to get involved with the design and not just "arm chair" ideas. Doing spawns ideas spawns doing.
I got the model off of the Google library but had to shorten the body size for the motors I have. I used #23s for the McWire but I think #17 would do fine. I might order some and keep the #23s with my McWire for routing.
I'm hoping that others will dig
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bjbsquared
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General
Auger - 14 years ago
For your consideration :http://replibot.blogspot.com/2010/03/introducing-new-repstrap-design-auger.html
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bjbsquared
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General New Machines Topics
Here is my hat toss into the ring for the McWire Successor. It is still very early in the design stage but I am hopeful that it will work or be a stepping stone to something that will.
http://replibot.blogspot.com/2010/03/introducing-new-repstrap-design-auger.html
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bjbsquared
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General
>
> Tim/Bothacker seems really close on his,
> bothacker.com if we can just get him to list the
> parts.
I really like the BotHacker design and think I would like to build one when the information becomes available. However, I think the price will be high because of the 80/20.
I am in hot pursuit of a less expensive McWire alternative I have the X and Y stage designed in Sketchup a
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bjbsquared
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General
aka47 Wrote:
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> Oh forgot to mention.
>
> Probably so obvious it is'nt worth mentioning.
> Insulate the sides and base of your hoeated beds
> to reduce the power consumption and make temp
> control more stable.
A foil interface between the bottom and the insulation might help reflect some of the heat back to the plate.
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bjbsquared
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General
If you have a mac pleasant3D is the way to go for orientation and centering.
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bjbsquared
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Skeinforge
If those treads were made of springy steel I wonder if there would be a way to deform them to get the part off. Perhaps squeezing a section of track on the sides or perhaps going around the return axle. Maybe even some sort of scraper or spatula? What if the plate was cooled to a much lower temperature?
It seems to me with of these setups (except for a robotic arm) the bed would probably be sta
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bjbsquared
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Kartik M. Gada Humanitarian Innovation Prize
Yep, good points about the belt tension. I see that now.
Still brainstorming here...
How about something like removable heater beds. Would need to make the electrical connections by pressure contacts. Removed by a robotic arm? Spring ejection system? Explosives?
Or Heater beds on a tank tread like conveyor belt.
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bjbsquared
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Kartik M. Gada Humanitarian Innovation Prize
How about a belt tensioner that would force the belting tight against the bed? It wold loosen when moving the belt. Then then, in the new posistion lever against it.
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bjbsquared
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Kartik M. Gada Humanitarian Innovation Prize
Any of the 7805 in a DPAK should work.
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bjbsquared
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Controllers
I think it's not JUST the McWire that causes the problem. I also am using the MK4 extruder from Makerbot that is DC gear motor driven. The extrusion control is not fine enough for the speed the McWire goes. There really no stretch to the filament (layer thickness = 0.65) at 200/255 for the PWM motor drive. Any slower and the motor stalls. I have played with oozbane and cooling but without too muc
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bjbsquared
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General
I have built a McWire and frankly am not satisfied with the performance. For large parts it print fairly decent even good. The smaller parts come out a pile of goo. I have tried many thing to make it work, but in the end it is McWire slow speed that does it in. Print times take too long. That being said I have changed my sights from building a Mendel to a design with the following attributes.
*T
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bjbsquared
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General
I see a typo here. It could be the problem.
axis id="x" length="80" maxfeedrate="1210" scale="400"/
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bjbsquared
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Mechanics
>"So the plan is to make it piggie back..."
I found the name I like - >Piggy Back!
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bjbsquared
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Controllers
Yes, 12V. The chip adjusts the current. Remeber yu will be running other things off f 12V for extrusion. In general, you will want to get an ATX power supply for your system. 200W - 300W should do. Go higher if you find a deal. It helps reliability.
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bjbsquared
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Controllers
> as far as I know, there should be somewhere in the
> firmware configuration to set steps per mm, which
> totally glosses over drive methods and such.
ReplicatorG uses a file: machines.xml. In there you will add your machine and its attributes. There you can tell it the number of steps per mm for the X, Y and Z axis.
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bjbsquared
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Mechanics
If the site wants more content it needs to be an attractive place to put content.
I've started creating a wiki page for the McWire Guide. I have to say that the wiki editing sucks imho. Is there a WYSIWYG editor for the wiki? I can see why people aren't putting things in the wiki... it's a chore to do so. Blogging is SO much easier.
Drawing in community is fine but the people we draw need to b
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bjbsquared
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Administration, Announcements, Policy
I have started a McWire page on the Wiki. Some excellent points have been made on this thread. Please help me develop the McWire Guide.
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bjbsquared
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General
Yes, mcWire does take along time to print.
I am using 1/4"-20 rods for the X and Y axis and it barely goes fast enough for minimum extrusion speed. I've had some good prints but it actually needs to go a bit faster than the extrusion speed to stretch the melted extruded plastic as it comes out. I'm switching my X and Y axis to 1/2"-13 in order to achieve this.
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bjbsquared
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Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
SebastienBailard Wrote:
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>> Ideally human-viewable, rather than a zip?
As to be seen inline by the browser? or PDF?
I can do it how ever you want but I was going to incorporate some things I learned first.
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bjbsquared
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General
No problem with the questions. They are all good and others will benefit from them.
I think it is for stiffness encase you want to mount a rotary tool. That's the only thing I could think of. I only have one installed and it is fine for the plastruder. I do plan to have the Dremel tool mounted to it one day so I had it made. However, I have a 1/2" plywood interface/adapter between the pipe flang
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bjbsquared
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General
That would work just fine. You'll want curved corners for the acrylic. I didn't use the notches. They are intended to line up with the opto end stops but didn't work out for me.
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bjbsquared
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General
$40 for the clear acrlylic.
$83 for the cutting.
$17 for the shipping.
This will be Lot less if you only do the platforms. They will give you a quote before you commit to a puchase.
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bjbsquared
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General
I had the plastic pieces made with pololu.com's laser cutting sevice. I hear Big Blue Saw is good to but I haven't used them.
I did have the bearing arms laser cut too but unfortunately they are failing. They could be made out of aluminum or 1/8" to 3/16" fiber board. I have been using fiber board to replace the ones that have failed. I have been documenting my journey through the build. Here i
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bjbsquared
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General
I just built one up using 0.25 inch. I would not do the bearing swing arms in plastic as they are breaking and I am having to replace them. Also the opto end stop pEts ar not needed. Only do the platforms. Also some of the holes need to be corrected for size.
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bjbsquared
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General
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