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In Sprinter and Marlin (I believe) there is an auto PID setup function that can be enabled in your firmware. Then run the M303 command in pronterface and the software will handle the rest. It will heat up the hot end and run through a few cycles. Then it will give you some numbers to put into your firmware. I did that and now it heats up fantastically and accurately.
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alexbaucom17
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Printing
I checked and they both have continuity. After asking around on the IRC I was told to try setting the PID heater control in my firmware and that seemed to do the trick! It now heats up great. Unfortunately I think my nozzle is jammed now.... back to square one
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alexbaucom17
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Printing
I've done a lot more testing and basically gotten nowhere with this problem. If anybody else has any ideas or help I would greatly appreciate it!!
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alexbaucom17
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Printing
It reads about 21C when it is off and room temp. All of those values were what was given to me by pronterface. I tried figuring out how to measure/calculate the temp using a multitester, but I couldn't figure it out.
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alexbaucom17
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Printing
I ran a few more tests and discovered that the heater was way overshooting during the heating process, but I'm not sure what that means.
I set my hot end to 100C and then it reached 115C before it finally began dropping again. Then I set it to 160C and it reached 177C before dropping back down to around 160C. At this point I had liquid PLA dripping from the hot end. No bueno. So I lowered the te
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alexbaucom17
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Printing
Yea it has worked really well for me. The prints pop right off (when oiled right) and it can be re-used tons of times. Eventually there gets to be some build up and you have to replace the PC, but it is significantly easier than blue tape.
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alexbaucom17
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Printing
I have checked the thermistor and it seems to have good contact and be in the right location. Its in exactly the same spot as before the hot end ruined itself. I have removed and re-attached the thermistor leads with no success.
Is there any easy way to test the thermistor and ensure that it is working correctly?
I'm no electrician but it just seems like getting an accurate reading from a the
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alexbaucom17
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Printing
I found this page (http://reprap.org/wiki/PLA) a while back and decided to try out the polycarbonate bed. Once I got the oiling right it worked fantastically, but it did take me 5-10 prints to dial it in exactly.
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alexbaucom17
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Printing
Something has gone wrong with my thermistor or hot end and I can't figure out what. Without changing anything, my PLA was all of a sudden being liquefied instead of printing correctly. It clogged and ruined my hot end, so I had to replace that and the thermistor. After replacing everything and running some tests it is still happening. It appears as though the thermistor isn't reading the correct
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alexbaucom17
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Printing
When I tried swapping my pololus, I found some wires to my z motor that had a bad connection and must have been shaken loose from the vibration of the printer. All is well now. Thanks for the suggestions.
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alexbaucom17
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Mechanics
Unfortunately, my printer is having some issues with its hot end, so I am not going to be able to print something using the program until I get it resolved. I ordered some new parts so hopefully I can have it back up sometime next week and give you some feedback on how well the software is working for me.
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alexbaucom17
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Skeinforge
My pololus are swap-able. I will try that out and see if it makes a difference.
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alexbaucom17
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Mechanics
Really? Could that do it? My printer is in the same spot it has been for the past few months and it's never done that before, so I don't know where new electrical noise would be coming from...
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alexbaucom17
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Mechanics
Great! Thank you! I downloaded your new program and it successfully processed my gcode. I will hopefully try a print tomorrow and see how it goes.
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alexbaucom17
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Skeinforge
I have had my Mendel working successfully for a few months now and just today I had two prints ruined because the z axis started moving down during the print instead of up! I have never had this problem before and I can't find any discussions online about it. After I paused the print with printerface, I tried moving the z axis again and the z axis moved up just like normal again. Any ideas??
I'm
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alexbaucom17
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Mechanics
No problem. I'm using slic3r, not skeinforge, but it is a gcode file so I had hoped it might work.
I used woodsmokes backlash guide (http://www.woodsmokeworkshop.com/wordpress/?p=359) and I was going to try running the calibration print through your software and see if it could give me some better results because slic3r currently doesn't have anything to compensate for backlash.
I attached the
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alexbaucom17
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Skeinforge
Okay I actually found the first problem when my friend looked at the code. Your code needed the file to have an appendix of '_export.' So I did that and ran the program again and instead got this error (http://pastebin.com/cZnmyVqE). My friend didn't know how to fix this one so some help would be appreciated. Thanks.
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alexbaucom17
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Skeinforge
This looks like a really great tool, but I ran into an error, which I copied and recorded here (http://pastebin.com/8qB7AP3N) for you to take a look at. If you could fix that or tell me how to work around that I would love it! Thanks.
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alexbaucom17
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Skeinforge
I am having a similar issue, although on much simpler shapes than the one above. My computer should have plenty of RAM to handle this stuff but slic3r just says that it crashed and then closes itself. I uploaded a screenshot of slic3r trying to slice this kotchflake vase .
This has happened on almost any semi-complex shape that I am trying to slice. Any suggestions? Thanks.
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alexbaucom17
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Slic3r