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Fixed it, had to jam a screw into the tube to push against the nut and produce enough friction to keep the nut stationary. Two of the inserts snapped, so I wrapped the last two in a layer of tape to bridge the small space between the plastic insert and the aluminum tube, which worked. Maybe these should be slightly redesigned so they can be printed in a different orientation?
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BrianC
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Mendel90
Recently ordered a new kit and the aluminum tube inserts snap almost immediately, leaving the nyloc nut spinning uselessly inside the tube. It's then almost impossible to get it off the screw, so I now have the tubes barely attached to the base dibond sheet and no way to remove them or tighten them. Any ideas?
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BrianC
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Mendel90
Yea the carriage moves freely. But it seems like the friction isn't constant along the length of the rod, which is why I thought it might have something to do with the bearings. Especially because the positions where there's more resistance to movement seem to move around.
The 0.5mm was an estimate, I don't really have an accurate means of measuring it. I just checked both pulleys and they're bo
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BrianC
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Mendel90
So my printer is starting to skip steps on a lot of prints that previously came out fine. It's mainly the Y axis, but it looks like there may be a bit on the X axis as well. Here's a picture:
The Y axis goes from left to right in the picture and the layers where steps are skipped seems random. I've tried this print at least 5 times now and the layers height and number of layers with skipped st
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BrianC
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Mendel90
That seems to have worked, hasn't happened since, thanks. Just out of curiosity, is skipping steps for 1.5 times the Y axis enough to permanently damage the motor?
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BrianC
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Mendel90
I've been printing for awhile with no problems, but recently the limit switches stopped working (Y mainly and X sometimes). I checked all the connections and they were all fine so I think it may be a mechanical issue. I noticed the bed has to hit the limit switch at a high enough speed to press it in. I got it working eventually by just tightening the belt and applying wd40 to the steel rods, but
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BrianC
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Mendel90
I use a 1/2" sheet of foam insulation board under the heated bed. I think another benefit of insulating is increased efficiency, because you lose less heat from the underside of the bed.
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BrianC
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Mendel90
Skeinforge has a module called statistic that lets you input material and machine cost and then calculates cost per part. It doesn't factor in fumes, but I feel like a significant proportion of the fumes are just water vapor. Weighing it sounds pretty accurate too, although you wouldn't know until after you've printed it.
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BrianC
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Mendel90
Ok thanks, I'll use the one found in the hotend. I would buy the thermistor from you, but that's all I need at the moment and I can't justify shipping one thermistor from UK to US. And swapping the bed for a black one is purely for looks.
Alan, I'm looking at some black versions of the mk2 on ebay.
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BrianC
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Mendel90
I want to swap out my heatbed for a black one, so I need to buy a new thermistor. I noticed in marlin, the thermistor used for the bed is labelled as "for bed only". I was wondering...can I use a different thermistor on the list for the bed? Because that specific thermistor isn't as common as the others.
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BrianC
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Mendel90
I've had a similar problem on the y axis, except I'm not sure if I'd describe it as rattling. More like a soft scratching. Oiling the rods with WD40 fixed it.
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BrianC
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Mendel90
Oh sorry my mistake I thought travel speed just meant how fast it moves in general, including during outline and infill. Wasn't aware there were two different feed rates. I meant just feed rate. I'm at 100mm/s right now and I'm finding the parts are coming out messier. Lowering flow to feed ratio sorta fixes it, but the parts come out weaker. Is 100 mm/s still a realistic speed for feed rate?
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BrianC
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Mendel90
Wow, looks like I made the right choice going with the 90 then lol. And doesn't going faster still affect accuracy and precision to a certain extent? The amplitude of the minute vibrations in all the parts would be proportional to the speed. Or is it just insignificant?
And by the way, do you have any tips on production? I'm not printing printers, just some equipment for another hobby of mine.
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BrianC
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Mendel90
Is it safe to run it that high for extended periods of time? I'm pretty much printing 24/7 at this point, aside from a few hours at night.
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BrianC
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Mendel90
What's the maximum travel speed you guys have used while still maintaining a decent level of precision? I'm currently at 50mm/s and am looking to speed it up a little as the list of things to print is really piling up.
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BrianC
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Mendel90
The only two fixes I know for over extrusion so far are lowering flow rate to feed rate ratio and increasing the filament diameter. Is there a better way to do this without compromising strength? If not, what are the pros and cons of changing these two parameters?
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BrianC
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Skeinforge
I believe it's the other way around. Skeinforge takes your feed/flow rate and multiplies it by whatever value you have for first layer multiplier. So if you're at 0.5 and you have a feed rate of 90, you'll get a first layer feed rate of 45.
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BrianC
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Mendel90
Do you mean 0.5? I have mine set at .75, but my flow and feed are pretty low (40mm/s).
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BrianC
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Mendel90
Go to speed -> object first layer
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BrianC
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Mendel90
I usually just order it here: , since it's tapered and I don't have the tools to do it myself.
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BrianC
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Mendel90
I've never done it before, but I've read about people converting 3mm jheads to 1.75mm by replacing the PTFE tubing with a smaller size, so you don't necessarily need a different hotend.
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BrianC
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Mendel90
I've been printing a set of parts for my second mendel 90, but I can't seem to print the ribbon bracket bridges. My printer bridges fine on all the other pieces, but I guess the ribbon brackets are just too long. Any tips on getting my settings right to print these? I read that you should lower feed rate and flow rate and then lower the ratio between flow rate and feed rate, but it didn't seem to
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BrianC
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Mendel90
Doesn't answer your question, but have you considered just adding a hole in the fan duct like [4.bp.blogspot.com]? I think nophead mentioned it in the most recent updates.
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BrianC
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Mendel90
Wouldn't increased x-axis speed be significant if your infill is linear and mainly in the x-direction?
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BrianC
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Mendel90
I checked all the fasteners and two of the hex pillars were loose. That made the print a little neater but I still saw the waves on all sharp corners. Which made me realize I had sharpest angle set to 60 instead of 90 up until now, Changing that has fixed it for the most part, it's still slightly visible. The rings on the cylinder are actually inner threads, the light makes it look like there's s
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BrianC
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Mendel90
Wow I didn't realize the blog was so extensive, I didn't see too many recent posts so I assumed that was always the pattern. Looks like I've got a lot of reading to do...about 3000 pages worth , thanks Alan
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BrianC
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Mendel90
So reducing travel speed down to 40mm/s seemed to help, but didn't remove the problem, and I'd really rather not go any lower due to time constraints. I did finally get a good enough picture though, in the upper left corned of print 1 is what I'm talking about. But there's also other imperfections...both attached prints were printed with the same settings and print 2 is about 2 times larger than
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BrianC
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Mendel90
It's really not that bad, it's just that I'm planning to sell what I printed so I'd like it to be as perfect as possible. I'll try changing the distance. Doesn't z wobble make waves going up? The waves are in the xy plane. I've tried taking several pictures, but I can't get the picture good enough to the point where it's visible (it's not that hard to see, I'm just bad with a camera). I guess I c
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BrianC
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Mendel90
I'm printing ABS at 230C so I'm not sure if I can lower the temperature anymore. But I'll give retraction speed a shot. What value would you guys recommend for the 90 (I'm at 20 mm/s right now)? The wiki says it should be 3 times your feed rate, assuming the stepper can handle it. And the imperfections look like small waves going out and in on the surface. They stop once the printer gets high eno
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BrianC
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Mendel90
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Pages: 123