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I tried setting the 'Above Z' value to something negative, a value lower than the negative Z offset, but this did not change anything.
I then used the "Set Home Endstops" in Marlin when I homed all axes. This fixed the issue. I'm guessing when I reset all my zero positions, my board was still remembering the 'old' endstop locations instead of the new, and was not allowing the Z to go any lower d
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BSBMX
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Slic3r
I've been using Z lift (set at .3mm) for a while now and it has seemingly been working fine on my CR-10S, or so I thought. I'm now seeing that on the first layer, Z lift doesn't do anything at all, even though I can see it occurring in the gcode. On the second layer, the Z height remains the same as the first layer, and again Z lift doesn't work. On layer 3, everything seems to work properly. The
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BSBMX
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Slic3r
I finally found something that made it work. Not sure if this is "the fix" or not, but it worked for me, and I'm on 1.1.7.
Under configuration_adv.h, uncomment #define SD_DETECT_INVERTED, and under pins_RAMPS.h, change #define SD_DETECT_PIN from 49 to -1 (yes, negative 1).
After reflashing that, and power down/up, I had the "Change SD" option again under the main menu, and "Refresh" was availab
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BSBMX
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Firmware - Marlin
I have replaced the original firmware on my CR-10S with Marlin 1.1.7. I have gotten all the settings the way I want them except the SD card menu. On the original firmware, there were Change, Initialize, and Refresh options along with Print from SD (I'm going off memory here...I think that's what they were called). I can print from an SD card, and it works fine, but I no longer have the change/ini
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BSBMX
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Firmware - Marlin
I have recently started using Slic3r 1.2.9 on my Mendel90, and I am pleased with the simplified UI and the fact that it is more regularly updated than Skeinforge. I have come across the Prusa edition of Slic3r and am considering downloading it to use on the Mendel90.
Are there any immediate changes, recommendations, warnings, etc. that I should know beforehand about using the Prusa edition of Sl
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BSBMX
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Mendel90
Thank you for the compliments. The image quality is just poor due to the low light conditions of my basement. The aluminum extrusion is normal 'aluminum' color, no special pewter-ish tint to it. If I had my pick of any 80/20, I'd get some of their black anodized extrusion...that would look pretty slick.
I agree, it would be nice if there were more options with these 12V power supplies. With my d
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BSBMX
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Mendel90
I know I've searched these forums before for an enclosure, so now that I've built one, I felt it was necessary to show you all how I went about making it. Below is the Thingiverse link to printed files and images of the enclosure.
Enclosure Link
I've always wanted LED strip lighting in some fashion around my printer, but never really came up with any good options that I liked. I recently came a
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BSBMX
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Mendel90
On most of my prints recently, I've been seeing these fine "stragglers" as I like to call them--essentially they're small strings that are printed alongside the actual print. These can happen anywhere in the print (near beginning or end) on any feature (attached pic is on round objects, but I've had these before on flat walls as well). I would think this is a Skeinforge issue, however I don't see
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BSBMX
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Skeinforge
Thanks Nophead, that did the trick.
I already had that Github file you linked, just didn't have the Melzi folder copied into the Arduino hardware folder. Once I did that, it now shows up and my computer is now 'speaking' to the printer. FYI, so far, the 1.0.6 version is working well.
For the future, do you think the Marlin 1.0.0 (that you linked) and the Arduino 1.0.1 (or 1.0.6) is the latest/
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BSBMX
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Mendel90
I've downloaded Arduino 1.0.6 and the latest Marlin from Github onto a new laptop (printer still works fine, but the original computer I used to set it up is fried). I'm having an issue that when I go into Arduino, I can open the Marlin file just fine, but when I go to Tools-->Board, the Melzi is not an option in the board list. What am I missing here?
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BSBMX
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Mendel90
I'm experiencing a fill issue where there are voids/gaps in areas that seem to be wider than 2 passes of filament but not quite wide enough for 3 passes. See the image to see what I mean.
Is there a way around this? Currently slicing at .1mm, going to .05mm or .2mm doesn't affect the fill. I'd like to fill up these areas as much as possible without affecting the rest of the print. Any ideas to h
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BSBMX
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Skeinforge
I first tested your .1mm profile, and I have to say I'm impressed. I wanted to print something with detail instead of a block, so I chose this squirrel:
The ears were a little droopy because of the hot end hovering around the small area for so long (this goes away if I print multiple parts or change the cool settings), but other than that, I'm pretty happy with it. I'm next going to try your .2
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BSBMX
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Mendel90
RyanMark, is your .2 and .3mm settings the same as Nophead's? Or are they your own variation?
Nevermind...
I see that they are your own variations. I had interest in printing at .1mm a long time ago--I'm going to try your template and see how it compares to what I came up with... hopefully it's better than mine!
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BSBMX
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Mendel90
My ratio initially was 2.25 (Nophead's settings). I changed it to 2.50 but got the same results.
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BSBMX
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Mendel90
I'm attempting to print a single-filament thick wall. Using Skeinforge, it outputs a double-wide wall even if I design the wall thickness at .001". During my search, I found the suggestion of making my wall thickness to fit the edge width over height equation. At .2mm layers and a EW/H ratio of 2.5, my wall thickness should be .5mm (.0197"). Changing my design to this thickness gets me a single-f
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BSBMX
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Mendel90
Why does this topic have 23,000 views?
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BSBMX
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Mendel90
Search eBay for "12v LED power supply" and look for a small silver box. I got one of these that puts out 30A and works well. A lot of reprap printers use this style of power supply. You'll need to wire up a plug to it, but it's not a challenge.
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BSBMX
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Mendel90
Does anyone have .1mm layer height settings for Skeinforge? I've been messing with it the past few days and can't seem to figure out the flow rate setting or the ratio of edge width over height. I've improved from each change I make, but I can't get rid of large blobs (this is my first attempt at printing a very small part).
In the attached image, the piece on the right was my first attempt, and
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BSBMX
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Mendel90
Nophead,
I had received my kit this past late April/early May, and my hot end has done this same thing twice now. Do I possibly have the same problem with the threads in the PEEK being too big?
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BSBMX
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Mendel90
I think I remember seeing somewhere online of a line of gcode that would instruct a webcam to take a picture. I'd like to place this code in my .end gcode file so that I'd have an image of the print when it's finished. Does anyone know this line of code, or could link me to it, or have any other idea for doing this? I primarily print from an SD card.
Also, there's a new feature in MatterControl
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BSBMX
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Mendel90
I celebrated too soon... I printed another copy and got even worse results (see attached image). Again, the X and Z directions are good, but something is going on in the Y direction. This is occurring when I use both Skeinforge and Slic3r.
Nophead, I checked on the Y motor aluminum gear, and it's tight and snug, definitely not slipping on the motor shaft. As the hotbed moves in the Y direction f
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BSBMX
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Mendel90
The toolpath in Skeinforge shows nothing unusual, and the filament is feeding freely.
I was googling around looking for another slicer to use, and I came across MatterHacker's MatterControl software, which has Slic3r built into it. I have to say, even in its beta stages, this MatterControl program is pretty sweet. It had Mendel90 settings already programmed into it (though, I do need to fine-tun
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BSBMX
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Mendel90
I had an unusual print issue occur today that I hadn't seen before. The issue looks similar to banding, but it's only in the middle of my print height, not throughout. In the attached image "bad print", you'll see my first and second attempts at this particular part. On "PRINT 1", I noticed that in the Y direction (circled in black), the edges got very loose. Upon seeing this, I changed the desig
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BSBMX
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Mendel90
Nope, not new. I've been using it for over a month now and have had several successful prints of all sizes. This print in particular was one of the largest I've tried, but I've successfully have done bigger as well.
The part that got kicked off was horribly warped like a banana. Perhaps the ends curled upwards causing the nozzle to drag at the extremities of the part.
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BSBMX
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Mendel90
I was about an hour into a large print (PLA, 220C hot end, 70C bed, fan on) when I heard something hit the floor. I ran over to the printer and found my workpiece in the floor with the printer still functioning. I stopped the printer and raised up the Z axis and found a large 'beehive' shaped blob of plastic around the hot end. It looks like the plastic had been extruding onto the hot end for qui
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BSBMX
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Mendel90
I'm wanting to hook some LEDs up to my Mendel90, but I'm stumped when it comes to where to hook them up. I have the Melzi board that comes with the kit. I'd like to connect the LEDs to the Melzi, but also (if possible) control the LEDs through the use of 'printer interface' commands. If I have to, I'm fine with the LEDs being on all the time if the printer is powered.
Are the 2x3 and 2x5 connect
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BSBMX
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Mendel90