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Never really thought about this before, but I'd like to glue some velcro to the back of my Raspberry Pi and Arduino setup to help position them in a way that is also removeable.
Is it okay to glue stuff to the pack of them?
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kfootball15
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General
Quotecdru
You can power the rpi via the GPIO header, but it's not recommended. You're bypassing the internal fuse, diode, voltage regulation, and capacitors for smoothing out the power. If you're careful, sure you might be able to get by with a decent power supply. But one oops and you've got a fried pi and not one of those tasty ones with the fruit filling. Just get some cheap usb cables from
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kfootball15
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General
Quote3dkarma
Starting at the power supply, it looks like he's run a red wire from a positive terminal to a power distribution block and run 6 or 7 from there to a chop block, which then connects to wires leading to the positive power supply pins of individual raspberry pi's (although the last part is a guess). Ditto for black / negative terminal, rinse and repeat for each available negative and
by
kfootball15
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General
Are there any instructions out there for a setup like the one he made? (pic in my 2nd post)
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kfootball15
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General
Yes it is a 5V/300W- 60A Single Output power supply.
Rather then power it through USB I was hoping to save some money by powering them through the pins on the raspberry pi units, and then connecting those wires to the power supply. The problem I am having is connecting so many raspberry pis to the power supply. Someone else did something similar and I've attached an image, but I'm not quite sur
by
kfootball15
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General
Hey Guys,
I am trying to work with as many as 10 different Rasberry Pis and I have a nice powerful Power Supply to work with, but I am unsure of how to connect multiple Raspberry Pis to the same power supply.
I attached an image of the power supply I have.
Any help would be awesome!
Thanks guys,
Jeff
EDIT: I found someone who accomplished this and have attached an image of his setup below,
by
kfootball15
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General
When I export my stl from max or blender, my file is miniscule and I have to scale it up tremendously to get it close to the exact dimensions.
At the moment I have worked out the proportional problem by scaling up prints anywhere from 2500 to 2800 times the size that it is imported as.,
Does anyone know the exact amount that a model must be scaled up in slic3r?
Thanks,
Jeff
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kfootball15
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General
please help me
by
kfootball15
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General
Might be worth it to mention that prior to this shutdown, my motor mounts were getting extremely hot!
by
kfootball15
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General
My arduino mega works fine when I connect it to to my computer through the USB, but whenever I attach the ramps 1.4 shield it will no longer turn on or connect.
Any idea why? It was working not even 10 minutes ago and not I cant get it to connect! I've tried unpluggin it and all that jazz.
Thanks,
Jeff
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kfootball15
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Quotejmaeding
the jumpers are critical. You need jumpers on the three pairs of pins below the drivers.
Without that, nothing works in my experience.
Radio shack sells them, though the sales people there never know what they are. Look by the chip sockets area.
You need 12 minimum, 3 for each of 4 drivers.
Woops I didn't refresh the page!!!
The Jumpers might be the trick. I have some, Ill let you
by
kfootball15
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RAMPS Electronics
Quoteeci22
Try this one
http://www.nextdayreprap.co.uk/commissioning-reprap-prusa-mendel-build-manual/
You need to select 11.4 "Pololu stepper driver configuration" from the top tabs
Thanks. This still didn't work
Here is a video of my problem.
Please help! Is it the electronics? Its worth noting tha twhen I use a multimeter on the extruder motor mount I get a -11 reading. The x-axis gives
by
kfootball15
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RAMPS Electronics
I was having a problem with warping on the edges, So I bought a much better/bigger fan.
This did WONDERS for the accuracy of my smaller prints, which is great. The only problem is that the Giant fan really cools down the bed a very significant amount. By the time the print finishes the bed is at 40 some odd degrees.
If I ever have to start a print over I have to wait a while to get the bed to h
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kfootball15
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QuoteNewPerfection
The direction the pot is pointing doesn't mean much. You really need to measure Vref on each driver. See:
Also, have you installed all the microstepping jumpers?
Im also having trouble following the instructions on that page. Do you know of anything a little easier to follow?
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kfootball15
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RAMPS Electronics
QuoteNewPerfection
The direction the pot is pointing doesn't mean much. You really need to measure Vref on each driver. See:
Also, have you installed all the microstepping jumpers?
what are the microstepping jumpers?
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kfootball15
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RAMPS Electronics
Its probably important to note that the motor mounts get EXTREMELY hot despite the pots point upwards.
Why is it overheating like that? (I have the plastic parts attached that help it cool).
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kfootball15
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RAMPS Electronics
Hi guys,
The Ramps 1.4 board I had broke so I bought a new RED one.
I'm having a problem adjusting the pots on this new one. Nothing seems to really work. Whenever I try to move an axis nothing happens except for aloud high pitched noise.
Any Idea?
I am using the old motor mounts from my broken GREEN Ramps board, which should be working fine. Could that be the problem?
I'm kind of stumped.
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kfootball15
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RAMPS Electronics
When I go to print my printer will heat up to around 77 degrees and then stop heating. Any Idea why this occurs?
Thanks,
Jeff
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kfootball15
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General
Sometimes after I use my printer for a while, my electronics simply won't heat up my hotend. I'll let it rest for a while and it'll work fine again. Is this some kind of safety feature? Can I turn it off?
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kfootball15
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General
Quotewaitaki
Quotekfootball15
I've tried re-soldering the connection to the plugs a million times to no success. I've even tried plugging it into the slot on the electronics right above it (not sure what its for) and I had the same results; a loud grinding noise.
Thanks,
Jeff
Where exactly do you mean by the above?
Have you not got each motor plugged into its own Z receptacle?
I do not. The t
by
kfootball15
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General
This one is really bugging me guys. I've used a multimeter to check that the wire is conducting all the way through and it is, but I still get the same loud grinding noise and a very stunted spin from the z-axis motors.
Any ideas? I cannot figure this one out!
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kfootball15
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General
Quotekfootball15
I am having a problem with my Z axis.
Everything else on my printer works perfectly fine except for my Z-axis, which makes a loud grinding noise whenever I try to move it up or down.
I've tried re-soldering the connection to the plugs a million times to no success. I've even tried plugging it into the slot on the electronics right above it (not sure what its for) and I had the
by
kfootball15
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General
I am having a problem with my Z axis.
Everything else on my printer works perfectly fine except for my Z-axis, which makes a loud grinding noise whenever I try to move it up or down.
I've tried re-soldering the connection to the plugs a million times to no success. I've even tried plugging it into the slot on the electronics right above it (not sure what its for) and I had the same results; a l
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kfootball15
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General
QuoteNewPerfection
Nope, unless you specifically have your slicer set to generate relative movements, you want the G90 there. There's no good reason to do this except for the extruder axis - There's no real need to use relative extrusion either, though it does make some things easier, such as manually editing the gcode.
The problem is that your start gcode homes the printer again before print
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kfootball15
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General
Is it the G90 command? Should it be G91 (use relative coordinates, rather then G90 - Use absolute coordinates)
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kfootball15
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QuoteNewPerfection
You shouldn't need to do anything else. Are you doing G28 and G29 manually before you hit print? If so, does your gcode contain an additional G28 at the beginning? Can you post the first chunk (20 lines or so) of gcode of one of the prints you have done?
Sure!
; generated by Slic3r 1.0.0RC3 on 2014-03-06 at 18:56:09
; layer_height = 0.25
; perimeters = 3
; top_solid_layer
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kfootball15
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General
I have a fully implemented autolevel bed that works great, but when it prints the z-axis doesnt seem to move at all except when changing layers.
I do the G28 and G29 before each print. Do I have to do anything else before Hitting print to actually implement it?
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kfootball15
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General
I was thinking about creating my own Filabot as a fun side project, as well as saving a bunch on Filament.
I figure it would pay for itself within a year or two considering how much I print.
Any experience with it, good or bad? Any reason I shouldn't get something like this? (i.e. future filament tech will most likely be different?)
Thanks so much!
Jeff
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kfootball15
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General
And no, I am NOT talking about the 3Doodler haha.
I remember finding online a while ago a solder-like tool for specifically melting plastic.
I was wondering if anyone knows what I am talking about? I cannot for the life of me find it anymore.
I want to be able to add little touches to my models, like little streaks for fur on animal prints and things like that.
Does anyone know of any good
by
kfootball15
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General
QuoteShawnT98027
Quote
kfootball15
I agree with Shawn above about PID tuning. It cannot be the problem as this printer was working perfectly fine a few days ago.
I am new to this for sure, but I did do a continuity test with a VOM and it seemed fine, but I re-soldered the connection just to be sure.
I just unplugged the thermistors from the electronics completely, and the temps STILL fluctuate
by
kfootball15
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General
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