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Ok, I reread the sentence I linked to in the gcode wiki, and I see now it specifically says "for homing". I originally took that to mean probing as well, but I understand now the concepts of homing and probing are separate. The fact that we can use the z-probe for both is merely a matter of convenience and a by-product of a particular printer's mechanical implementation.
It does indeed work whe
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pandionx
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Ormerod
Hi DC,
The switch is set to be normally closed at the moment.
Just to verify - I originally posted a question, found my silly mistake (operator error ), but then ran into a new problem.
I then edited my question above to reflect the real problem, instead of the red herring I caused. I think your response might refer to my original question?
Thanks,
Dieter
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pandionx
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Ormerod
Quotedc42
You can use both a Z switch and a proximity sensor if you want, just use M574 to enable or disable the switch. You could also set up macro files to change the Z probe trigger height to handle different bed surfaces. You may find the trigger height varies less if you put black paper under the glass, or paint the aluminium heat spreader black.
Hi DC,
I looked at the RepRep G-Code Wiki,
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pandionx
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Ormerod
Hi Europa,
The following section explains the extrusion parameter that I am referring to:
Getting extrusion just right
The E value refers to how many pulses the stepper motor needs to make per mm of filament. By making the E value lower, you will extrude slightly less, by making it higher, you will extrude slightly more.
The link will give you a good indication of what is 95% correct for you,
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pandionx
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Ormerod
Maybe your extrusion is set a little low? At the bottom because of the pressure and temperate of the bed it will set out slightly and look to be the correct diameter, but as the head goes up the plastic gets spread out less and as the temperature decreases the plastic shrinks ever so slightly?
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pandionx
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Ormerod
DC, just to clarify - you say not to use a PWM fan. The fan speed setting on the firmware/web interface, is that then for additional fans you mount for active cooling?
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pandionx
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Ormerod
It looks like the issue was due to a bad connection I made to the Molex connector. The new fan does not exhibit the problem.
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pandionx
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Ormerod
I'll check the warping with my DTI sometime in the week.
If I find it severe, I'll probably remove the copper with etching with ferric chloride, see if that makes a difference.
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pandionx
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Ormerod
Hmm, I've just checked it using a carpenter's square, and at least to the naked eye it looks just as flat as the glass plate I normally use.
Around 6 months ago I changed my bed leveling setup to use spring loaded leveling screws, and using a machinist dial test indicator I level my bed so that the difference between the 4 corners is around 100 micron (0.1 mm) between the highest and lowest poin
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pandionx
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Ormerod
I recently got a new roll of translucent red PLA (manufactured by a chinese company), and I've really struggled to get it to stick to my glass bed. I usually don't have much of a problem with PLA, and I've used similar translucent filaments in the past, but something in this filament was just different.
I mentioned this to a friend who also has a printer, and he suggested I try printing on FR4.
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pandionx
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Ormerod
Make sure all your rods are oiled properly. When I got my Ormerod 1 originally, I had a problem where my prints would suddenly jump sideways like you explained. I eventually realised that my z-axis needed a drop of oil on the smooth rod. The issue was essentially that the printer was sticking ever so slightly on a particular height on the z-axis. This caused the head to be 0.05mm lower than expec
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pandionx
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Ormerod
QuoteTreito
I have material here that prints on glass (from 3dfilaments.ie and some others) and others not (from other suppliers). I never got ABS to stick on glass and I will not use hairspray or an aceton soup. That is fact. And as I told this is nothing for beginners. Fact is that the material stick on glass not as good as on Kapton or Blue Painters Tape.
As you have to level your bed exactly
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pandionx
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Ormerod
QuoteDavek0974
Thanks
Yes I can make that part easily if wanted.
The dimensions in Ormerod168's post are most helpful,
What would the thickness be, 3mm??
If wanted I can work out a price but it won't be much, less than £10 anyway.
Dave
Dave, I just ordered arms and a print bed on your site. If you can make this part, I will definitely add one to my order!
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pandionx
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Ormerod
QuoteTreito
As a beginner you should not try to print directly on glass. This is very hard and depending on the material it can work or not.
Disagree. I've used glass from the start, and never had any problems with PLA. ABS is bit more tricky, but no fault of the glass.
If your glass is clean (I use meths), your bed temp and nozzle temp are reasonable, and (most importantly) your height is corr
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pandionx
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Ormerod
Ah! Thanks for the clarification DC.
On a side note, using your IR sensor, I find the fan comes on intermittently even when the hot-end temp is around 21. It seems related to the LED on the sensor coming on. Is this by design, or do I have a short somewhere?
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pandionx
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Ormerod
So like an idiot I accidentally stuck the end of my needle nose pliers into the fan of my ormerod while it was running, and the result, predictably, is now a broke vane on the fan.
Since I need to replace it anyway, I figured I might as well upgrade to a PWM fan, but the examples on the forum all refer to 4-wire fans, and the ones I can get locally all have 3 wires.
I can get the following fans l
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pandionx
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Ormerod
Very nice. It took me 3 evenings of pain to get Eclipse set up enough so that I could compile DC42's branch on Windows. If I get some free time in the next few weeks, I will look into creating a proper CMake build, based off your makefile. Maybe that will make it easier for people in future to compile the firmware - the current setup really is atrocious from a development perspective
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pandionx
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Ormerod
I get those blobs when I slice with Slic3r. When I slice with Cura, they go away. If you want, I can post my Cura settings file tomorrow, if you want to give it a shot with Cura.
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pandionx
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Ormerod
Must.
Have.
One.
Truly amazing work. Well done!
Quoteoyvinkg
Thank you for all the positive feedback
The g-code is generated in two or more stages. First I have sliced a part with either Cura or Slic3r, then I have made the 5-axis gcode with the help of java and spherical coordinate system. On the support test I have also sliced a top part wich I have added on top after the 5-axis gcode.
My
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pandionx
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Ormerod
Quotedc42
Quotepandionx
Why does absolute extrusion cause an unload?
It's because my fork restarts a paused print by rewinding the file to the first instruction that was queued but not executed; but it doesn't yet reset the absolute extrusion value to the right amount at that point. I have a fix for that ready for testing.
Will be happy to test once you release it.
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pandionx
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Ormerod
QuoteTreito
I am testing Cura. Slic3r and Kisslicer at the moment. I cannot see any real differences by now (Slic3r 1.2.7), but what I like at Cura is that it shows the printing time for example and it is easier to choose if you should prefer more quality or speed. Doubling the speed does not end in having only half of the printing time. Sometimes this is only 10% and so I can decide not to speed
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pandionx
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Ormerod
I switched to Cura months ago, and haven't looked back.I haven't tried Slicer in probably 6 months, but the print quality between the 2 were day and night for me. Cura's prints looked far better.
The pausing thing is strange - I use DC's fork, and in the past (before I realised my Ormerod can easily print at 250% via DC's print speed slider ), I often paused a large print in the middle of the n
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pandionx
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Ormerod
I find I have to print PLA at much cooler temperatures than people on the net generally recommend.
Not sure if SA's sunny weather or my 1 339m above sea level has an effect, or whether my printer's thermistor just overshoots, but I print my black PLA at 185, and my see-through blue at 175-180.
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pandionx
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Ormerod
QuoteRadian
Has anyone tried accessing Duet Web Control 1.06 from an Android smartphone/tablet? I tried a Samsung Galaxy note, a galaxy tablet and an ancient Archos tablet. So cool to be able to do this but all three showed exactly the same problem rendering the Head Movement controls:
I know the browsers in these things are pretty basic but so much renders correctly I was just curious to know
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pandionx
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Ormerod
I do the same as the original OP, because I find if I don't do it before the skirt starts printing, the skirt sometimes has blobs which hooks onto my head/print and ruins it.
My macro to achieve the above is:
G1 X5 Y5 ; Move to corner
G1 Z5 ; Lift the nozzle to enable easy cleaning
T1 ; Select extruder 1
M109 S185 ; set temperature to 185, so we can extrude
G1 E5 ;Extrude 5mm of filament
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pandionx
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Ormerod
So I've been running DC42's improved IR sensor board for around 2 weeks now. I'm extremely happy with it - the auto z height sensing has been working perfectly for finding the z-height in the centre of my bed, and the added illumination and better fan control is fantastic. I'm really pleased with the addition to my Ormerod, and highly recommend it to everyone.
I am having a minor problem when us
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pandionx
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Ormerod
Ah heck, one of each for me too please!
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pandionx
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Ormerod
Yup, I was also thinking along the lines of what DMould said.
I actually agree with your viewpoint of the printer needing to compensate for it's own mistake. But since my day-to-day area of expertise is distributed enterprise architecture rather than embedded controllers, making firmware changes on the Ormerod for this appealed less to me than writing a Python plugin script
So the main benefi
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pandionx
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Ormerod
I've also previously thought about using the raft to print a throwaway level bed, but never got around to playing with the idea - my idea was to try cobble something together in Cura using a plugin, but never got around to it.
I'm in 2 minds as to whether this should be a slicer or a firmware feature - both viewpoints have their merits.
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pandionx
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Ormerod
Very strange - the problem seems to have resolved itself.... I have absolutely no idea why that happened.
But yes, I am planning to move to 1.0 as soon as I've done a test print tomorrow using your new sensor board. I've played with it a little bit tonight, and it's accuracy seems fantastic.
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pandionx
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Ormerod
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