Show all posts by user
Page 2 of 2
Pages: 12
Results 31 — 51 of 51
DC, I see you added step 6 to your instructions
May I suggest adding the photo you posted above as well - pictures and a 1000 words etc
by
pandionx
-
Ormerod
I've run into a very strange problem now:
My Y-Axis direction is reversed! I didn't plug out the Y stepper wiring, but I double checked anyway, and everything is correct. I'm still on
Duet Firmware 0.78r-dc42
reprap.htm 1.02
reprap.js 1.02
just like I was a week ago.
I can't think of anything I've changed recently than can cause this. Very confused
by
pandionx
-
Ormerod
Hahahahhaha! This is classic LOL
Also, no one noticed that in my pictures, I also had the fan mounted wrong way around - the label should be facing towards the heatsink
by
pandionx
-
Ormerod
As always DC, you had the answer. Thank you!
Quite funny, since I'd been printing like that for about a year now
by
pandionx
-
Ormerod
So I've finally gotten around to fitting the hot end board V2 that I ordered from DC42, to my Ormerod. I printed all the parts, and followed the very straightforward instructions.
I've run into a slight problem however - not sure whether it is because I've made a mistake in fitting it, or whether it is a problem anyone has seen before.
I printed the add-on sensor pad and fitted it, however for
by
pandionx
-
Ormerod
Xabbax, any chance I'd be able to mount this hotend on my Ormerod 1 somehow?
by
pandionx
-
General
The problem isn't that the printer and webcam are both on port 80, since they have their own IP's.
In your DSL router, you need to port forward port 80 to :80, and then port 81 (for example) to :80.
Then from outside you can access your printer on :80 and your webcam on :81.
by
pandionx
-
Ormerod
Personally I've left my hot end on with PLA for well over 45 minutes without any issue.
by
pandionx
-
Ormerod
Hi Antonio,
If you go to C:\Users\\.cura\
there is a file called output_log.txt, which is a log file. It might show you an error in the script execution of the plugin.
by
pandionx
-
Ormerod
I highly recommend either dc or zombiepantslol's firmware forks. Tons of additional useful features, bugfixes and other which seem to take RRP foreever to correct/add.
Plus, frankly the web interface alone is worth the effort of loading it.
by
pandionx
-
Ormerod
Quotemunro
Hi.
I am in need of some advice, my printer was printing fine .but now it just jams been trying to solve the problem for about 4 mounths now even changed to direct drive.but no luck there either. Are there any groups/clubs where guys get together share knowledge in jhb.
Many thanks
Paul
Hi, only saw this post now.
What printer do you have, where are you situated etc?
by
pandionx
-
South Africa, Johannesburg RUG
Thanks for the info DC, I didn't know that! Will check it out!
Having said that, relative IS useful if you're going to be editing the gcode manually, so the plugin may still have some benefit for me in the future.
by
pandionx
-
Experimental
Wow! Love all the parts in aluminium, and some really nice work on tightening up all those tolerances!
by
pandionx
-
Ormerod
This may be a really dumb question, but when last did you oil the smooth steel rods on your Ormerod? I had endless problems in the Z-direction, and after spending hours with polishing it with steel wool to no avail, 2 drops of 3-in-1 oil resolved my problems completely. Perhaps your Y direction rods are binding slightly, just enough to cause a problem?
by
pandionx
-
Ormerod
After being frustrated by the print quality of Slicer over the weekend, I eventually tried Cura by using a relative extrusion plugin created by Cash from this forum. Had to make an additional change since Cura seems to use T0 as the extruder, and on my DC42 firmware it's T1, but in any event.
I was astounded at the quality difference. The quality of Cura is superb, where Slicer, frankly, was horr
by
pandionx
-
Experimental
My local distributor has RFduino's in stock, so I bought a few a few months ago. Interesting, but the library support for the RF/BlueTooth support is somewhat lacking at the moment. I played with it for a day or so, got frustrated, and decided to shelve it for a bit. Will likely look at it again in the near future. It is very nicely made though
by
pandionx
-
Ormerod
Dave, given that you're not going to cut more of the X-Arms for the model 1, would you mind posting the DXF's for them please?
by
pandionx
-
Ormerod
Quotedc42
In the Ormerod 1, there is a tendency for the belt to slip in the slot it is pushed into. The solution I recommend is Matt's printed y-belt fasteners, along with either my shims for getting the tension right or another tensioning device. See for the shims and for the belt fixings.
Agreed - Matt's fasteners are great. Personally I use them in conjunction with the Y-Idler assembly here
by
pandionx
-
Ormerod
Not at all - In fact thanks for the tip!
by
pandionx
-
Ormerod
I can't comment on the Ormerod 2, as I have a model 1.
I am a Software Engineer by trade, and very much like Magoo, I don't have a background in mechanics or electronics - I dabble a little in electronics for fun, but at an extremely basic level, and I can do the basic handyman stuff around the house. I am by no means a hobbyist machinist or anything of that sort however. What I AM good at thoug
by
pandionx
-
Ormerod
Quotedmould
I have also replaced the X-arm with aluminium, and the glass build plate with a precision aluminium plate.
Dave
Dave, did you simply use the X-Arm STL's in the github repo, and have them laser cut in aluminium (I know someone with a waterjet cutter, which I expect will be as good). And in 5mm alu I presume?
Lastly, where did you get the precision aluminium plate if I may ask?
by
pandionx
-
Ormerod
Page 2 of 2
Pages: 12