Pololu hat mir auch das 1$-Sonderangebot gemacht. Insgesamt waren es umgerechnet 20€, nach zwei Tagen war die Lieferung da. Meine Erfahrungen mit den Treibern habe ich hier niedergeschrieben: . Kurzum, für jeden normalen RepRap eignet sich der billigere A4988 (z.B. StepStick, Pololu) besser.by imitation - Schwarzes Brett
Bei sind die Treiber auch im Angebot - ich habe gleich mal den Lagerbestand leergeräumtby imitation - Schwarzes Brett
Die neuen sind auch besser für Microstepping geeignet - bei den A4988-basierenden sieht man öfters, dass die Mikroschritte bei höheren Strömen nicht sauber ausgeführt werden, das Ergebnis ist auch bekannt als "Baumringe" / "tree rings". Auch die größere Strombelastbarkeit finde ich super interessant, ich habe 2,5A Motoren und kann die nur mit knapp 1,5A fahren, weil sonst die Pololus überhitzen.by imitation - Schwarzes Brett
Hi everyone, my Budaschnozzle v1.1 0.5mm arrived a couple days ago, today i found some time to try it out. As advertised, it performs incredibly well on higher speeds, it is very easy to push filament through, but in turn, it oozes like an ice cream cone on a hot summer's day and takes twice as long to heat up as Wolfgang's hotend. It also makes no difference in the issue i'm seeing, so it is deby imitation - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Thanks for everyone's input so far. I have another hotend incoming, until then i'll try all suggestions posted here. I'll report back if i make any progress. @aplavins: Wolfgang's hotend use a 6.8Ohm resistor, but my PID regulation rarely sets the output to more than 90 (of 127) while printing. I have the heater block insulated with no fan blowing at it. I have successfully used these hotends upby imitation - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Like i said, i am absolutely certain that the bed is level. I use a piece of paper to check the distance. If it was unlevel, there wouldn't be that much of a difference from 5 -> 3. The pieces were printed (first to last) 7, 5, 8, 6, 4, 2, 3, 1. While the first couple parts came out too thin, you can see it improving a lot from 2 -> 3 ->1. The blob on 1 is where i stopped the print. I caby imitation - Plastic Extruder Working Group
nophead Wrote: > Are you saying the inside of the brass is tapped > M3.5? 3.5h7 refers to the standard tolerance you get with a drill bit - meaning the bore will either be spot-on or a tiny bit too large. The two threads in Wolfgang's hotend are M6 for the heater block and - i think - M10 for the PEEK. 3.5mm sounds a bit large for 3mm filament - that, in combination with some aging effect,by imitation - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Wolfgang, if you want to keep on bashing nophead, i suggest you do so in a separate thread. As far as my problem goes, i still haven't figured out what causes it. For now, i can print a second layer that is good enough by waiting five minutes (at full temp) after the first layer and then repriming the nozzle. It feels a lot like it is the hotend causing the trouble. Are you sure that the bore isby imitation - Plastic Extruder Working Group
So i did two more things this morning - i switched to a piece of my previous Filament, which i had printed about two kg of. That didn't make any difference at all. I then tried to go slower, down from 75 (was working fine) to 60, to 30 and finally to 15mm/s. That made a bit of a difference, but mainly concerning how much of the second layer looked bad. With the mini-octopus as my reference print,by imitation - Plastic Extruder Working Group
I've swapped out my .5 nozzle with a .35 one that has been sitting in acetone for about two weeks. That one is 100% clean, but has the same issue.by imitation - Plastic Extruder Working Group
I've been getting fairly nice prints out of my Prusa - until the nozzle jammed. I cleaned that out, but it has not been the same since . I'm using Wolfgang's hotend with a .5mm nozzle, printing ABS onto heated PET. +-1°C during the whole print with PID control @240°C, .3 layer height. The first layer goes down perfectly - it sticks throughout the whole print without creating a ridge. However, oncby imitation - Plastic Extruder Working Group
A couple things to consider: - Upload an .stl file as this represents the typical file format for 3D printing. You can export one directly from Solidworks (unless you're using the student's version). Use mm as the main unit. - Check your measurements. The file is actually just 4.53 * 8 * .5 in. - This is still barely too big for most people to print. The typical working area for a RepRap is 200x2by imitation - Job Shop: I need stuff made!
So basically you just don't want to pay customs? And you do realize that trying to get around customs ("resending") is illegal? C'mon, this really isn't GRRF's problem, anything other than what they did would be hugely unprofessional. I've ordered from GRRF a couple time before and have never had any problems. In my case, their customer support is flawless and they did a lot to get me happy. Chby imitation - For Sale
So i got myself a cheap chinese Arduino Mega and built a RAMPS for it, which is working flawlessly under the same conditions the SL previously failed. I'm guessing the FTDI went funky, as the Atmel was apparently running stable. Since my second SL is acting up, too, i'll try to make a Frankenlolu from those two and see what works. Thanks again, - Tom -Closed-by imitation - Sanguino(lolu)
Did you check the baud rate? If you're sure about that, i'd suggest you try with klimet's excellent pronterface (Printrun), it tends to work with lots of different hw / fw combinations that other software refuses to connect to.by imitation - Sanguino(lolu)
I've tried moving the printer to the other end of my house, didn't help. Sprinter show the same behaviour - so there must be something wrong with the SL. Unless someone has any more ideas, i'm off to making a gen7. Thanks again for all the help so far. - Tomby imitation - Sanguino(lolu)
Disabling host reset solved the pauses, but not the disconnects. EDIT: nope. Didn't fix anything. Up next: Sprinterby imitation - Sanguino(lolu)
Yes, i am using ATX supplies. Both units are of good quality and give stable 12V, with no load it's more like 12,2V. I'm not using the 5V from the PSU, but from the host through USB. I tried using the 5V from the PSU, too, but it didn't make a difference. But you have a good point with the reset cap - SL1.3a has a jumper that enables / disables host reset. I had it plugged in for convenience, butby imitation - Sanguino(lolu)
Oops, it did it again. It plays with my heart. Got lost in the print. Oh Prusa, Prusa... The whistles did print with two or three pauses, but it still disconnected during the next print. I'm starting to think this is a software bug in Marlin, i'll try with Sprinter tomorrow.by imitation - Sanguino(lolu)
Nope, my cables have no ferrites. However, some Sony cables were happy to donate some large clip-on ones, and i have just put one on each end. The printer is doing a couple whistle now, i'll see how it goes; so far, each attempt of printing those has failed. Bad karma i guess You might be spot-on with interference, the oil burner next door surely causes some sort of interference when igniting.by imitation - Sanguino(lolu)
So, i built myself a shiny new LM8UU Prusa w/ Sanguinololu 1.3a Electronics, kit from JoeM. I've been using a 1.2 SL on a Sells Mendel with good results. However, the SL1.3a is giving me a headache: - It frequently pauses for ~30 seconds, like every ten layers or so. I can see Marlin reporting it's turning its steppers off after ~ 20s, just like it's configured, after another 10s the print resumby imitation - Sanguino(lolu)
Will that help me with my curl issue occurring only on (rounded) corners of solid objects? No offense.by imitation - Skeinforge
comwarrior, i can write and interpret gcode just fine, if i wanted to draw a line at different feed and flow rates, i could do that. Specifically i want to test a Wade's gear because i'm getting bad warp/curl at the teeth. The surface sticks nicely, but the teeth curl inwards after a couple of layers, and i want to test if there is a connection between flow, feed and the curl i'm seeing. For thisby imitation - Skeinforge
Hi, i'm looking for a way to combine many skeinforge settings in one print, essentially i want to do a "calibration plate"-matrix with different flow settings along one axis and different feed settings along the other. I could, of course, print one after the other and space the parts far away apart to keep the carriage from crashing into the others, but that would slow things down quite a bit (tby imitation - Skeinforge
Does Meshlab have some kind of "snap to z=0" feature? I've tried blender but failed when trying to put the individual pieces *on* the build platform.by imitation - Reprappers
I've done a couple plates with plater.py, and it works reasonably well for what it's supposed to do. Now two things that aren't quite 100% yet are: - It slows down to a crawl when handling many (~10) parts, even on my capable desktop machine - The autoplater is still (very) buggy as it is still new. There's no way to change the build envelope yet (Makerbot or even limited X-travel because of a Waby imitation - Reprappers
Thank you all for this thread! I've been looking for a software like this, too and i had heard that Printrun would include something of the likes. But i've tried in pronterface and never found anything. So now i looked a little more, and klimet's Printrun (whole software set, it's not just pronterface) actually includes a program to make build plates. It's called "plater.py" and is sitting rightby imitation - Reprappers
@devijvers: I guess my last post was a little confusing in regards to the whole "gearing" matter. My initial thought was to keep belt speed "synchronized", that is that the pulleys on both X and E Motors would be the same size and the needed E steps would simply be Esteps = Esteps - Xsteps Now with using a larger pulley on the E motor (or extra gearing before the pulley, but that seems overly coby imitation - General Mendel Topics
I bent my mind a little more around how complicated this would really be to implement in firmware. In a simple non-accelerating firmware this would be somewhat simple. Assumed that the same pulleys would be used on both x and e-motor, the movement of the x-axis could be compensated by simply substracting the steps, after calculating the steps required for the x and e movement. Since i don't knowby imitation - General Mendel Topics
Hi everyone, i've been thinking a lot about how to make the Mendel faster, i.e. getting weight off the axes. I know there are bowden extruders, but i also know they don't work perfectly for everyone and are prone to breaking. So i had another idea that involves moving the extruder motor off the x-carriage. Enter the belt-extruder. Let me explain what you see above, starting with the known partsby imitation - General Mendel Topics