Thanks for the report. I have some PP filament from Gizmo Dorks too. Royby roygpa - General
I like the idea. But I guess even if I was totally against it I would have to use the sub forum, so I wouldn't have to view it.by roygpa - Administration, Announcements, Policy
All I am saying is that I don't think you need to worry. Hook both stepper motors to the one Z driver and you will not hit the current limit or over heat.I've had three different printers (two with the Rumba, all with A4988) and hooked both motors to one stepper driver on all of them and never had an issue with the Stepper over heating or missing steps.by roygpa - Controllers
This isn't the answer you are looking for (and I cannot help you with that) but the Rumba is fully capable of running two stepper motors off one driver. I hooked one motor up to the wire connector and one to the pins and have no problems with my Z axis. Royby roygpa - Controllers
I solved a pesky Y axis shifting problem by aiming a fan at the Y-Axis (I hit all of them) stepper driver. No matter how I adjusted the driver, it still skipped randomly. After adding a fan to cool it (it was hot enough to burn your finger) it hasn't missed a step.by roygpa - Printing
Thanks for the info rarena. I also have a Sense scanner that I got as a get last year. I have had trouble with getting a decent scan. I don't think any of the computers I tried to use it with are powerful enough. it usually quits part way through the scan saying that it "lost tracking" I have attached a scan of a coworker, I would say it is the best scan/3D print that I have done... in a year. itby roygpa - 3D Scanners, Book Scanners, and Optics
why was funding canceled?by roygpa - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
Wish I knew how to create and post a patch. Since I don't I will continue to view the forum as I have. Royby roygpa - Administration, Announcements, Policy
After having problems with and fixing the X axis, I then had problems with the Z axis not responding. Spent 3 nights working on it, and then decided to check the soldering work on the bottom of the board for the Z axis and found a loose connection. Re-soldered it and then was able to print with this printer for the first time since early 2013. Was just about ready to throw the Rumba board in theby roygpa - RAMPS Electronics
I second Replaces request. I read many forums by clicking on a "new posts" link. Royby roygpa - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Never mind. it would appear that when I was installing the SmartLCD I mistakenly disconnected the X-min plug so the X axis didn't trip the switch. I discovered the problem by doing a M119 command and it return that Y and Z were tripped but not X. Thanks for looking. Royby roygpa - RAMPS Electronics
Could someone please take a look at my endstop settings from my configuration.f file and let me know if I have something set incorrectly? I was able to connect via computer last night and found that Pronterface does the same "home" crash. Endstops are mechanical. If I back an axis into the endstop it does stop. If I tell it to move to home position, the x slams into the endstop and keeps on tryiby roygpa - RAMPS Electronics
I spent a week trying to get my Rumba boards to stay connected to the computer. No use, I couldn't figure it out. So at the risk of throwing good money after bad, I bought a Reprap discount LCD 2004 display. After having the same problems as everybody else with connection being backwards, I got the display to work. Now I am trying to get it to print. Here's where I need a bit of assistance. wby roygpa - RAMPS Electronics
Using windows XP and Windows 7, the board fails to connect to the computers when running external power to the boards. When powering from USB I am occasionally able to connect and make adjustments to the Marlin firmware. Royby roygpa - RAMPS Electronics
I have a couple of Rumba boards that I bought thru Reprep Discount about 18 months ago. I set one up to run my Lulzbot TK-0 and then didn't use it for the past year.(Was using mu Prusa printer) Now I am having issues with connecting either Rumba board to a desk top or lap top machine. If it connects and starts printing, it will just disconnect a few minutes later. I have tried the troubleshootby roygpa - RAMPS Electronics
I have a j-head that was blocked because I tightened it so much the PTFE sleeve was crushed up against the nozzle and restricted flow. Just saying. Royby roygpa - General
Got a heat sink and another relay. Learned another lesson. Pay attention to polarity when wiring an SSR. When wired correctly, it hols temp between 109 and 111 deg C. Take care. Royby roygpa - General
Just so nobody thinks I am a total freeloader using the Luzlbot designs... I have purchased 3 of their Budaschnozzles over the course of the past year. I like 'em. Royby roygpa - General
jebba Wrote: @xiando: we are using M6 threaded rod not ACME. > -Jeff DOH! That's what I get for starting my build before the final BOM is out. Anybody need a couple pieces of 3/8 inch by 12 acme threaded rod? Should be an easy change over. Royby roygpa - General
Thanks for the quick reply Xiando, that's my plan. To use bang-bang and retire the SSR that melted down. I'll chalk it up as a learning experience. I have two new SSR's on the way a 40 and an 80 amp. edited: I bought a heat sink too. Thanks again. Royby roygpa - General
I bought one of the relays in my post above, installed it... without disabling PID. Would leaving PID on cause the relay to get very hot and possibly limit the current through the relay? The relay was rated for 25 amps and I measured 13 amps. With the bed heater connected directly to the power supply I get 20.5 amps. I have since disabled PID, but found the relay to have suffered a bit of a meltby roygpa - General
Carol: Not really but a rough guess on total print time would be 8 hours or so. I took my time over a couple of months. The top surfaces on a couple of them didn't come out all that great, but that was just cosmetic. Royby roygpa - General
I built my TK-0 from the pictures and BOM on the Lulzbot site and printed my own parts. I did buy the Budaschnozzle 1.2, of course. I used the LM10UU bearings, but the printer is in my shop so if it gets too loud I can go to another room. I have a QU-BD 300x300mm bed heater and second power supply to power it. I am using a Rumba board with Marlin and Pronterface, and I bought an SSR to power thby roygpa - General
I switched to Marlin Firmware and Pronterface and now have a temp reading from my heated bed. I'll switch to some other combo when I am ready to go to multiple extruders. Royby roygpa - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Stupid question time. Could my problem be that under the Heated bed configuration it spells it: HEATED_BED_SENSOR_TYPE 7 HEATED and under pins.h as HEATER_BED_PIN 9 HEATER If the Bed temp contacts are broken, would it be difficult to reprogram one of the other sets of pins to work as the bed temp monitor? I'm not a programmer, in case you couldn't tell. Thanks. Royby roygpa - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I have also checked all of my thermistors with a meter and get reading of about 100k ohms so I am confident that they are all OK. I have also switched the wires for the extruder over to the bed temp hookups and Repetier Host says it is defective too, even though it reads just fine when connected to the extruder temp hook ups.by roygpa - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I am building a printer and using a Rumba control board along with Repetier firmware. I am currently having issue with the thermistor on the heated be being reported as defective by Repetier host. I have tried all the different setting and three different thermistors and it says they are all defective. Anything obviously wrong with the firmware below: Host says : Heated Bed : Temp sensor defectby roygpa - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Repetier: Changing the endstops per you post above (high on Trigger) and making the Always check Endstops= True solved my endstop issues. Thanks for walking me through this. Royby roygpa - Repetier
Repetier: Thank you for your help on this, I appreciate it. I have a 30 amp 12 volt power supply that I bought on eBay, same as the other two printers that I have built. I will twist the endstop wiring tonight to try to stop any stray signals coming from them. and make the "always check endstops setting and invert the settings..by roygpa - Repetier