Hi. I solved it by uploading the Repetier firmware. Now all is smooth. I don't know why it wasn't working with Sprinter.by fizzman - Sanguino(lolu)
Ok, so I did the following easurements: with only z-end stop attached: z-end stop not pulled voltage between + and signal pin z-connector : 7.3 V voltage between + and signal pin y-connector : 7.3 V voltage between + and signal pin x-connector : 7.3 V z-end stop pulled voltage between + and signal pin z-connector : 12 V voltage between + and signal pin y-connector : 7.3 V voltage between + andby fizzman - Sanguino(lolu)
Alright. I have loaded the Sprinter firmware from: How would I measure that? Between earth and the signal pin when I pull one of the end stops? For example I pull the z end stop and check if the x, and y go to 5V?by fizzman - Sanguino(lolu)
I did as you say and removed any threads on the back and on the front of the card, but the result is the same. All end stops are pulled at the same time.by fizzman - Sanguino(lolu)
Thanks. When removing the ATMEGA there is infinite resistance between the signal pins on the connectors. So that seems ok. I'm out of ideas, since a long time now...by fizzman - Sanguino(lolu)
Hi. I'm exploding this forum with my messages at the moment. All help is appreciated. I'm getting some drift in one of my axes. I followed a lot of guides that I found on the web about: tension of the timing belt calibration of the stepper drivers mechanical alignment etc. Originally it was my x-axis that was grinding and drifting, so I thought it might be a mechanical problem. I decided to chby fizzman - Sanguino(lolu)
It's the big one (I believe). See pics below. There doesn't seem to be any connections between any of the pins on the backside. When I measure the resistance between two signal pins I get around 2 Ohm when the board is not connected to any power source. I hope this explains. Thanks for the support!by fizzman - Sanguino(lolu)
Oh, crap. There is a contact between the signal pins on the board. Is this not normal? I worked my way around this by each time starting a print manually zero the x and y axis, and then let the end stop only work on the z-axis. But in the end this is not what it should be like... So if someone has a bright idea I'm all for it.by fizzman - Sanguino(lolu)
Hi. I have a problem with my end stops and my Sanguinololu. I start all up, and no end stop is switched. I do a M119 in pronterface, which gives me: "x_min:L, y_min:L, z_min:L" When I touch one of the end stops (x, y or z), and do a M119 command in pronterface, it gives me back: "x_min:H, y_min:H, z_min:H" So all seems to be pulled at the same time. This makes it impossible to home my machineby fizzman - Sanguino(lolu)
Hi all. It seems it's the ATMEGA that is not working. I get no signal change out from pin 19. So nothing is switching. Well, I went and bought myself a new board in the meantime, I guess I'll have a spare if something else breaks. It would have been enough with a new chip I believe. Thanks to you all for your help. I now have another problem, but I'll make a new thread for that...by fizzman - Sanguino(lolu)
Ok, thanks for this info, as you will see by both my explanation below and my soldering skills, I'm no expert in the electronics field. I hooked it up according to the pic below. Now there is a constant 12V on the heater, whether I switch it on or not. Did I misunderstand your pin 1, 2 & 3, or should it be like this? Regards Fizzby fizzman - Sanguino(lolu)
Ok. Thank you. I will then buy a new board. And then I'll try to move the MOSFETs off the board. Feels more safe like that. I wish you a nice weekend.by fizzman - Sanguino(lolu)
Alright. Thanks, nothing happens with any of the pins when I switch on the hot-end. I'll try with another MOSFET, but ultimately I think that the connections going to/from the MOSFET might be burnt from the small fire I had during the first start up. There might be some other connections that have burnt. See here how it looks, I have some extra wires soldered on there to try to connect, but nothby fizzman - Sanguino(lolu)
Thanks for the answer. I tried to go around the problem by adding a direct 12V connection via a wire, but it doesn't work. Nothing happens with the hot end, it stays cool. The MOSFET isn't switching when I turn on the hot end in pronterface. I might have fried the board. Or do you have an ideaof what else it could be? Thanksby fizzman - Sanguino(lolu)
Hi. After having my reprap in a box for some time, I decided to start it up. Only problemwas that the MOSFET of the hotend had taken some damage. So when I turned on the heater it started burning. "No problem, I will change to another MOSFET" I thought, I've got some IRFZ44N lying around. Well, not so easy, because the connector on the card has burnt also, the one on the source leg. Now my quby fizzman - Sanguino(lolu)
Ok. I think I found the problem(s). There must have been a problem between the "push filament through by hand" test and the time I had reassembled the extruder. I think this comes from the calibration of the thermistor, as I stayed quite long times at high temperatures without pushing filament through the nozzle. There is some burnt material inside blocking the output. Also, when disassemblingby fizzman - General
I use gear box oil, but it kind of stinks a bit and also I don't know how well it will last in normal temperature. Maybe it will get sticky over time. The best I think would be sewing machine oil, very low viscosity and is made for keeping in room temperature and normal humidity. My 2 cents /Fizzby fizzman - General
Hi Beekeeper. I am using standard 1.5 mm² cable (which would be 14 AMG I believe) for mine. Works fine. As yngndrw is saying, silicone would be a good choice for flexibility, mine are PVC which is also quite flexible. The temperature of the wires (for me) is never really high (max 40°C or so) so the heat resistance is for me not a problem. The only problem I ran into is the MOSFET. It burnt upby fizzman - General
Thank you all for your replies. I have tried to push the feedstock through, and even though it demands some force, it is no problem to do it. So I'm guessing the hot end is ok... It's my extruder gear that's messed up, I'll have to see if I can increase the gripping force a bit, as you suggest Pentatonic. I have also chosen the good thermistor (EPCOS 100k according to the supplier), I don't knoby fizzman - General
Hi jamesdanielv. I love quick responses. I aven't tested to push anything through the nozzle by hand, is it supposed to be very easy? I use ABS and I've tried from 190-300°C. Didn't know about the max temp for ptfe, I maybe have damaged my hot-end. What do you think? When I push the feedstock (better word than "rod", thanks) it does melt, but it doesn't become liquid, only soft and mushy. Isby fizzman - General
Yo rappers (ok, let's start this with some bad humour). I have built a Mendel Prusa V2, and whilst having broken some plastic parts already, I'm confident in being able to make it work. Now it moves in all directions quite freely, the heated bed got warm (once, then the MOSFET burnt out, need to get a new one and maybe fix some kind of heat sink). But, the big problem for me is the extruder, Iby fizzman - General