I have been pulling my hair out with this problem, and I am looking for a good explanation of what the hell is going on. I just upgraded my electronics from a Sanguinololu to a RAMB0, and in the process I think I screwed something up (not sure how, but I am hoping that with a better understanding of what is going on, I can determine that). Problem: Normal thermistor inserted into ANY of theby pyrophreek - Sanguino(lolu)
For newer printers with 32 bit mcus I agree that breaking out the step and Dir pins may not be the better solution. Unfortunately, many current 3d printer designs, including mine, are still using an 8 bit MCU, with limited io capabilities. Also, to use the main MCU means modifying the firmware, which has advantages and disadvantages. If it were integrated into the main branch of a common firmwarby pyrophreek - Firmware - mainstream and related support
What I am worried about is the processing time taken up by the filament monitor if the encoder is directly connected to the main printer board. Also, having the sensor only output to one pin on the printer, and only when a fault is detected, means it is more universally useful. While using an attiny increases the cost, and makes it difficult to reprogram once implemented, the advantage of pushingby pyrophreek - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I have been thinking about coming up with something like this for a while now. More than just a filament break/end sensor, I also want to detect nozzle clogs/filament jams. To do this I was thinking of making a small breakout board with an Atmel ATTiny85 that monitors the filament and extruder and sends a signal if it detects that the filament isn't feeding properly. It would do this by haviby pyrophreek - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Actually a better way to do it rather than shelling it, is to make sections of the bottom and top that are as thick as you want the bottom and top layers to be. These would print completely with one extruder. Then print the central section with one extruder for perimeters, the other for infill...A little less work than my previous work around. Still not quite ideal, but should result in a bettby pyrophreek - Slic3r
Update: you can do what you want to do now, just create a shell for one extruder, and the infill for the other. Then you will need to set the perimeters for the inner part to zero in the settings over rides for the part. Also, any changes to extrusion width or other things would need to be entered here. Not the ideal way to do it, but it will work for now. A lot more futzing than should be neby pyrophreek - Slic3r
I am working with a Kraken quad extruder on a Rostock Max, and was wondering if you had considered working with Sanjay over at E3D to adapt your design to match with the Kraken. One of the big disadvantage of the Kraken is the need for four bowden setups, but your product might be a way to overcome that.by pyrophreek - General
Just tried the experimental 1.1.4 build, and this bug has been solved. Problem: If I try to print a part using the 2nd nozzle on my printer only by setting the nozzle setting for all parts of the print to nozzle 2 in print settings, when I slice it, it still enables the first nozzle. This means that it will heat it up for the duration of the print, and if I leave ooze prevention on will evenby pyrophreek - Slic3r
That is a good idea, but unfortunately it doesn't work from what I have seen. When you set a multi material part, it will print each part with the different extruders. To get what you want, you would need to shell the part, print the shell using one extruder, and the core with the other. Unfortunately there is no way to specify different print settings for each part though, so you would need tby pyrophreek - Slic3r
I like the wipe skirt that is printed when you activate Ooze prevention, but it only prints using the first nozzle, and when it switches to the second nozzle it just starts printing without first wiping it. Making this skirt composed of a perimeter for each nozzle would make it possible to wipe each nozzle just prior to printing. For layers only composed of one nozzle , to prevent unnecessary tby pyrophreek - Slic3r
Details: Under Print Settings> Multiple Extruders>Ooze Prevention add a check box for enable fan during cooldown Reasoning: Although ideally the cooling fan should not cool the nozzles, in practice it pretty much always does. This feature would take advantage of that cooling to help accelerate cooldown during a nozzle swap, thereby further helping to reduce ooze Current workaround: Undby pyrophreek - Slic3r
Any progress on the software side at this point? I have also been working on a two input nozzle, and would like to be able to control the extruder motors simultaneously. Working on a Rostock Max with dual extruders at the moment.by pyrophreek - General
I would like to increase the pulse width for the fan to something large, say 10 seconds, so that the fan will just emit quick bursts, with the duty cycle controlled by Slic3r's fan control. What setting would I need to change? Kby pyrophreek - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Tried looking into this, but couldn't find info on how to do it. Any links to what setting to change?by pyrophreek - Slic3r
Seconded, also perhaps the option to detect regions with overhanging perimeters and turn on for those. External perimeters only might also work for this.by pyrophreek - Slic3r
Rather than adjust the fan PWM, as some fans don't support this well, use a pulse mode either short pulses at the beginning of a layer, or at regular intervals. Every n layers might work too. I have tried this manually on my Solidoodle 2 and found it to work very well at improving print quality, but is tedious.by pyrophreek - Slic3r