Thanks Tony. I'm guessing it's some silly pilot error causing the problem. I think I changed the baudrate to 230400 at the same time as I enabled the panelolu2 in config.h and when I saw communication come back in the console on pronterface after a reset I assumed the baudrate was fine (even though it's not a standard setting in pronterface as it skips from 115200 to 250000). I'll try puttingby cobrageek - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Thanks Tony. I honestly can't figure out the version for Marlin other than "_v1". I downloaded it 2 weeks ago so it's fairly recent. Is there some file where I should find a version number? Maybe pronterface thinks it is in the middle of a print or something because that could match the behavior. I haven't tried changing the temps but only using the manual controls to move the axis. Is therby cobrageek - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I have a Sanguino 1.3a with a Panelolu2 LCD panel. If I build Marlin without the LCD panel support (comment out the appropriate line) I can get pronterface to connect to the sanguino use it to manually move the axis motors and heat up the hot end/bed. But if I build Marlin for support of the LCD panel I can use the LCD panel to move the axis and things and pronterface displays feedback when I rby cobrageek - Firmware - mainstream and related support
The current from a power supply is a max rating. If your system draws less, then there is less current created from the power supply. No need to do anything, just plug it in and use it. I have heard different estimates for 12V supplies and it varies based on which ATX supply you have, but if your numbers are accurate, it should be fine. (of course, if it all blows up and burns down your houseby cobrageek - Sanguino(lolu)
Just a quick update for anyone following this saga... Last night I focused on the Panelolu2 issues and was able to pin down the problem to the 5V to 3.3 regulator. It looks like the kit came with the wrong part. It's supposed to be a LM340MP, but what I was sent in the kit and soldered down said "TJ" on one line and "3CMD2CE" on the next. Can't find anything on google to help identify this.by cobrageek - Sanguino(lolu)
OK, I've spent a bunch of time tonight and made some great progress. (Thanks for the tips on this thread and a few others). I think my biggest problem was pointed out in the post by Traumflug but I didn't recognize it at first. I was using the bootloader baudrate assuming that it was the same for any communication. But Marlin has it's own baudrate setting which by default is much faster than tby cobrageek - Sanguino(lolu)
I just thought of another possible problem. I have the panelolu2 LCD panel that I soldered together and the firmware is configured for this. But when I power up the unit with the panelolu2 connected the back linght comes on for a few seconds and after about 5 seconds it goes off and so does the LED on the sanguinololu - that seems like a bad sign to me. I haven't done much debug on this figuriby cobrageek - Sanguino(lolu)
Thanks Traumflug. I'll download one of the serial terminals and try to get a connection. The printrun baud rate matches the windows com port setting and the same as the arduino settings in boards.txt (57600), but there must be something else going on. Is there any page with help on how to communicate to the sanguinololu using a serial terminal? I know there are G-codes and M-codes, but I'm noby cobrageek - Sanguino(lolu)
Something else interesting I noticed is that when I hit the reset button on the Sanguinololu, the X, Y and Extruder motors "freeze" and make a bit of a humming noise for a few seconds. After the reset they stop buzzing and are free to move by hand again. I also tried unplugging the limit switches and heaters and it still wouldn't connect. I then unplugged all the stepper motors and it stillby cobrageek - Sanguino(lolu)
I have a sanguinololu that I've been able to successfully upload firmware to at 57600 on Com4 from my windows 8 machine. I have wired it the rest of the way to the motors, heaters and switches and it still powers up fine (red light and all), but pintrun (set with same Com and baud settings) gets stuck saying "Connecting". It will do this forever until I turn off the printer and then it comes upby cobrageek - Sanguino(lolu)
Thanks Dust. That was it. I think I have a newer bootloader and it's set for 57600. The default was 57600 in the boards.txt file, but I don't think I had the COM port set to match in windows. When that didn't work I searched the sanguinololu page and found the tip about changing to 38400 and matching that in the COM settings in windows. But that didn't work with the newer bootloader. But aftby cobrageek - General
OK, I've been digging around with more google and forum searches and I've run across something that has generated more questions and I'm guessing that it doesn't matter, but thought I'd ask. I installed the latest (non-beta) Arduino software and downloaded the latest Marlin firmware from github. I followed the directions to take the "Sanguino" directory from the Marlin-Marlin-V1/ArduinoAddons/Aby cobrageek - General
I have a Sanguinololu 1.3a and I've recently upgraded to a ATmega1284p. Last time I had time to work on the project (almost a year ago) it had a 644 and by fiddling with upload speed settings and the com port drivers I was eventually able to upload a Marlin build from a windows 7 machine. Since then I bought a panelolu2 and the 1284 (which came with a bootloader) and a new windows 8 machine. Aby cobrageek - General
Thanks for the idea lister. I just did it this over the weekend and it turned out quite well. I used bigger cutoff wheel so much of it needed to be done with the wheel aligned with the bearing. I used some friction to get it to spin slower than the cutoff wheel, but I also tilted the wheel some to round things a bit more and make a nice sine wave curve. I think it turned out very well and wheby cobrageek - General
Thanks Yvan. I'll try the cut-off wheel option and probably add some resistance to the bearing to keep it from "just spinning". Mihai, I've thought about the MK7, but I wasn't sure how it would work in the current extruder. Isn't it larger than the bolt? How do you put this in without changing the layout in the extruder?by cobrageek - General
Thanks Yvan. I like the idea of the grove in the idler bearing too, but wasn't sure how to get it there. What technique did you use? If I had a lathe I could just chuck it and use a file, but my drill press chuck won't get close to holding the whole bearing. Maybe mounting it on a shaft and using a cutting wheel of some kind? Any good ideas? I'll try a small tap (maybe 5/32 as it's close toby cobrageek - General
I'm building my printer right now and chose to go with 1.75. Seemed to have some easier feed capabilities and some claimed accuracy (but I'm sure that could be argued). But I'm now committed to the 1.75mm direction and have been researching the hobbed bolt question. I've found a few reports that indicated that they have made bolts intended for 3mm and they worked fine for 1.75mm. The reductby cobrageek - General
The gear on the extruder motor is nice and tight (set screw is working properly). The issue is with the larger gear and its connection to the "shaft" (bolt) which is really just a double set of nuts tightened together. It looks like the nut is just too small compared to the indentation in the gear where it is supposed to fit. I suppose it should be a tight fit and likely a print accuracy issueby cobrageek - General
I'm still trying to finish my build and was about to start the wiring and noticed that the drive gear for the extruder has considerable slop. I believe it is a wades extruder design that came with my prusa 2 kit. The extruder shaft is held to the drive gear with some nuts and those nuts are supposed to fit tightly in and indentation so the shaft always turns when the gear turns. But the nuts areby cobrageek - General
Thanks lajos. That does look easy and seems like it should do the trick. I'm not sure why I didn't figure this out earlier when I was looking for a place on the board to make a cut. Maybe I was assuming that the trace after the USB connector went somewhere important, but it looks like it only goes to the holes that end up underneath the USB connector and aren't really used. I'll see if I can cby cobrageek - Sanguino(lolu)
lajos, that would really help if you could post a picture of what you did. That way I could confirm we have the sme board and make the cut. Thanks.by cobrageek - Sanguino(lolu)
lajos, I would have cut the +5 trace to the USB port, but it definitely went somewhere else as well so I would've had to cut two traces and then run a bypass wire and that is definitely more than 2 seconds with a pocket knife. It actually looked pretty difficult to figure out where to run the wire as the board is small and the parts are surface mount. Fixing the USB cable was much simpler :-).by cobrageek - Sanguino(lolu)
I wondered about this too when I was sorting out my Z couplers. I think in the end the Z-motors move small enough and smoothly enough that they don't introduce any bounce or rotational issues to the X axis when you combine in what waitaki said about the weight of the X carriage. Any energy from side to side movement of the heavy extruder should be absorbed by the Z-axis rods and shouldn't transby cobrageek - General
I couldn't find all the correct parts in my scrap pile but I did have extra USB cables. So I just took one and cut through the red +5V wire. I put some heat shrink on each end to make sure it wouldn't short against anything and wrapped it all back together and it works fine. I was thinking to cut the trace, but the way it's setup on the Sanguinololu 1.3a board it has a trace leading to the USby cobrageek - Sanguino(lolu)
Thanks Andrew. I was just looking at thermistortables.h. Unfortunately the tables on the wiki and the tables in this file (for marlin) don't seem to match. Here's an example of each and maybe you can help with the translation. It looks like the numbers are similar if I just put add the rest of the stuff from the marlin table. But there are many more entries in the marlin tables. Will that mby cobrageek - General
Thanks Andrew. I wish I had the tools to use nophead's technique, but I don't think a harbor freight infrared temp sensor is accurate enough :-). I'm going to confirm with Brian at hotends.com (great guy and product BTW) so I know exactly which one came with the hot end. The Marlin setup looks like it has a basic table that covers all the EPCOS 100k thermistors (one of which is what was listedby cobrageek - General
I'm in the process of setting up the configuration.h file and have run into a problem. I bought my kit used and the original manufacturer doesn't seem to exist. The original kit included a thermistor which looks like the first one pictured on the thermistor page and another that looks like the second one pictured on the page (axial). I have also received one with my new hotend from hotends.by cobrageek - General
Did a little more playing with google and ended up with this page which is pretty good. Let me know if you see any other such "help" documents on the configuration.h as I'm a total newbie and will need all the help I can get. (even with that I'm sure I'll be posting something about printing backwards or something :-)).by cobrageek - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Ah, that's interesting. So you're supposed to change the board type in configuration.h? I changed it in board.txt for arduino but it makes sense that I need to change it in configuration.h Honestly, figuring out all the right settings in configuration.h is a daunting task. Is there some good documentation for what all these settings mean and how to figure out what to put in for them? Thanksby cobrageek - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Thanks Traumflug. I was planning to use Marlin with the SD card attachment (but not the LCD panel stuff). Hopefully it compiles into somethign small enough to fit. If not, I may switch to something else. Really good to know about the bootloader issue. That woudl be an unpleasant surprise as I don't have anything currently that will let me program a blank like that. Looks like there are some gby cobrageek - Sanguino(lolu)