Thanks for the reply Traumflug, It's a delta but I've reduced it to 1/8th anyway and it's lots better. Just got to get it dialled in now! Cheers Dby maddog7 - RAMPS Electronics
Quotedougal1957 Quotemaddog7 Hi all, I've been building a Rostock and I'm at the stage of the game where I'm nearly ready to test print, I spent an age yesterday getting the endstops calibrated and that's as close as I can get it, but now if I home all, then Z0 the extruder tip does not always move to the same height above the bed. It's fractionally different each time. I'm using Rich Cat's Marliby maddog7 - RAMPS Electronics
Hi all, I've been building a Rostock and I'm at the stage of the game where I'm nearly ready to test print, I spent an age yesterday getting the endstops calibrated and that's as close as I can get it, but now if I home all, then Z0 the extruder tip does not always move to the same height above the bed. It's fractionally different each time. I'm using Rich Cat's Marlin and I'm using 32nd microsteby maddog7 - RAMPS Electronics
Quotejbernardis What firmware are you running and what value are you interested in. The firmware itself is compiled binary code. You CAN retrieve it from the Arduino, but it's totally unreadable and unusable. The only purpose for doing this is perhaps to back it up or to copy it onto a different machine. I was looking to see how I had the endstops configured, I'll just trial and error it agaiby maddog7 - RAMPS Electronics
I did look at the ENDSTOPS_ONLY_FOR_HOMING define and thought about rem'ing it out but was not sure if something else was the cause of the issue first. I mistakenly thought that the endstops would be absolute and stop the machine if triggered for any reason. I suppose as long as I know not to move x or y until all 3 towers are low enough then it's all ok. I've been a little confused by the endsby maddog7 - Delta Machines
Thank you for your help David, I ran M360 in the Pronterface console but nothing appears to happen, after your suggestion I did a bit of googling and tried M503, this revealed some FW settings but not the ones I was most interested in. Could it be that the particular FW I'm using does not support the M360 command and if so is there likely to be another command for my FW that will give complete inby maddog7 - RAMPS Electronics
I know this is probably a very elemental thing to ask but is it possible to transfer the FW back off the ramps to the computer or have some way to read the firmware values? Cheers Dby maddog7 - RAMPS Electronics
Hi all, I've built a Rostock after having only previous experience of building cartesians. I've begun the calibration stage and I'm finding that if I home the printer (which works fine) then jog the x or y axis, this allows the individual towers to exceed their limit switches. Just wondering if there is something I'm missing? I'm using Ramps 1.4 and Rich Cats Marlin. Any ideas? Cheers Dby maddog7 - Delta Machines
I've had some progress on this but have a question: If I home all axis, this seems to work perfectly each time I do it. I tried sending a dummy print to the machine, the machine goes to home and when the rear motor hits the stop the ramps re-boots (or that's what it looks like) causing the motor to crash through the stop. I tried it twice and it happened at the same point twice. Any ideas what miby maddog7 - RAMPS Electronics
Hi All, I've just finished building a Rostock and am in the process of calibrating it but the machine seems to be doing random stuff! I used the Rich Cat version of Marlin and once the FW was flashed the machine was very slow on the Z axis, It moved the right amount, just pretty slowly. When homing it moves a lot quicker and homing seemed to happen no problem. The next time I used the Z axis itby maddog7 - RAMPS Electronics
I might be missing something (as usual ) but I don't see how 3ddue's idea would cause any sloping in the print layers? If I understand it correctly this solution would mechanically level the bed so it was perfectly flat, presumably before each print? No changes in Z height would be necessary within a layer. It looks to me as if it's intended to simply automate on a per print basis what would otheby maddog7 - Mendel90
Hi Neil, It absolutley is, a bit of time further fine tuning the setup could get better results but from the point of view of someone who is relatively new to 3d printing, the bevel is a quick and easy way of saving quite a bit of time and having an item that is useable hot (or cold I should say!) off the bed. Looking around the internet the elephants foot situation seems a common issue for manyby maddog7 - Mendel90
Hi all, After printing the wades large gear I'd always have to spend ages filing the bottom edge to the same size as each tooth so it would mesh properly across the entire surface of the tooth so I've remodelled the gear to include a 0.5mm bevel on the bottom edge. This removes the elephants foot situation and the need to sand the gears. The gear is of course not of my design, I've simply moddedby maddog7 - Mendel90
Quoteneildarlow Adjusting the flow rate by 5 or 10% does not seem right. Are your nozzle size and filament diameter entered correctly in your slicing program? If you follow the Mendel90 calibration procedures correctly there should be no need of adjustments like these. Have you tried printing an object sliced with Skeinforge? I rely on Skeinforge to produce good results where other slicers cannoby maddog7 - Mendel90
Attached pic has gear on the left printed at 185c and the right at 205c all else equal. Still not sure the flow rate is quite what it should be but I'm miles better off as a result of the help I've had here. I'm very grateful. Dby maddog7 - Mendel90
Quoteneildarlow I would adjust the E_STEPS_PER_MM factor to account for that 0.2mm. You say you are printing at 200C. Is this for PLA? I generally print PLA at 185C using speeds of 40-50mm/s and only go to 200C for speeds of 80mm/s. Also, again for PLA, are you switching on the fan after the first layer. Active cooling is required for good quality PLA prints. Regards, Neil Darlow Hi Neil, Thaby maddog7 - Mendel90
Just checked the extruder and over 100mm its about 0.20mm over extruding. When I first calibrated it, it was 3.5mm over. Would such a small deviation cause such an issue? Dby maddog7 - Mendel90
Thanks for that Neil. I am printing at 200c. Overextruding seems to ake sense considering the uprising nature of the ridges. I calibrated the extruder to the best of my ability and am as sure as I can be that its extruding the right amount. I will however check the calibration again now. What would be the best way to test the overextruding theory? Could I just try reducing the filament flow a litby maddog7 - Mendel90
I was just watching the machine print and the issues seem to happen at the back of the part as viewed from the front of the printer. When looking at the process it appears like there is a growth of material here. I tried to take a pic of it. As far as I could see all the Z movements were near the front. Come to think of it I printed the hollow calibration pyramid and it had some lumpyness which wby maddog7 - Mendel90
Thank you for that Cocoknight, I agree that Slic3r does a better job, it's just that Cura is so good at other things, like being able to position, resize, mirror and duplicate stuff. On my other M90 the difference between the two is not as much for some reason and I can live with the offset. What puzzles me is why the issue (with both slicers) only affects 2 teeth, the other 9 are absolutley fineby maddog7 - Mendel90
Hi all, I've just finished my second M90 and am having some print quality issues. I printed a herringbone gear and two teeth together have turned out all mushy? I first printed it using Cura and then using Pronterface/Slic3r and the latter was better but still the issue was apparent. I've attached a pic. In the pic, the gear on the left was printed with Cura and the one on the right with Slic3r.by maddog7 - Mendel90
It would seem (and I'm in not the least surprised! ) that Nophead was correct. Though It is a little odd that the IR gun would give bang on half. Nonetheless It appears to be all sorted now, might get to try a test print in the morning. Thanks to you both for your replies! Dby maddog7 - Mendel90
Cheers for that Chris, I don't have a thermocouple so I'm a bit knackered there for now. Would you think it possible/likely that the emmisivity of the metal would be such that the measured temp would be pretty much bang on half what pronterface reports? I suppose I could start on the high side of pla extrusion temp and reduce it 10 deg at a time until the extrusion starts to spiral? Do I presumby maddog7 - Mendel90
Hi all, I've had my Hophead kitted Mendel 90 a while now and I really like it. I thought it needed a sister and a friend had a load of dibond kicking about so I built another one using the first! Yay! I have one small issue though that I hope y'all might be able to advise on. I've used Nophead's version of Marlin and that all seems to work very well except for one thing, pronterface is reportingby maddog7 - Mendel90
I did wonder if there was a difference in qualities. The original abs I'm using has a much bigger difference in its diameter along its length than the PLA I use. Good tip on the Kapton too! D ;-)by maddog7 - Printing
BEER! ofmg! There's no reason it shouldnt work! Might give it a try! I did get my Kapton from a 3d print supplier so I'd presume it would work but hence my question. Might try some Koptan! Thanks again all. Dby maddog7 - Printing
Wheyhey! On plain glass with PVA juice I used a 20 line brim and turned off all cooling, 230c extr, 115c bed, first sucessful ABS print! Just busy printing something bigger now to see if it was a fluke! Cheers all for your suggestions! Dby maddog7 - Printing
Thanks for that Dave, It is black ABS I'm trying to print, what problems did you have with it? I applied the Kapton in 2 different ways, drop of washing up liquid in some water and squeegied out with a credit card but have problems with it not sticking, then applied dry but carefully pressed down with a credit card. This meant very slight gaps between strips but otherwise a good flat almost complby maddog7 - Printing
Oh, Has anyone ever really thought they could tell the difference between differing brands of ABS and or Kapton? Cheers Dby maddog7 - Printing
Cat.Farmer/randyf1965, The Brim and hairspray are 2 thing's I've not tried yet, i did bring some hairspray to work to try but just havn't done it yet (I take it straight onto glass?) and I clean forgot about the brim! Have some ABS coming tomorrow I believe is known to give good results so I'll do some more experimenting then. Thanks for the suggestions all :-) Dby maddog7 - Printing