I went for a Cetus3D, it behaves like a though a 3D printer would behave when I bought my Ormerod, it just works. But as said all I learned tinkering with the Ormerod has been very rewarding. Being a printer with direct extrusion it prints flexible filaments without any trouble too.by fotomas - Ormerod
Did not follow the link in tstone's post since the link did not work, copy/paste workes. tstone's design is based on mine and handels the lack of reduction. Well I feel that I have to pitch in my version too. I see that the extruder in the original post was posted two months earlier than mine. Did not find it at the time. www.thingiverse.com Pros: Much simpler construction only requiring eigby fotomas - Ormerod
QuoteVortyZA QuoteDarathy Dont think its a mirror ,the distance betweetn rods is slightly different i think. It's not unfortunately a mirror. The Ormerod 1 is 80mm horizontally, 12 vertically between the centers of the rods, while the Ormerod 2 is 78mm horizontally (measured from the DXF files) For my design the distance between the rods is irrelevant. It is the distance from the extrusion to tby fotomas - Ormerod
What ever solution you choose I would recommend clamping the printer down to a board. I have done that in combination with my solution above and had consistent results since then. My and other solutions primary function is to help in remove the twist, not keeping it straight.by fotomas - Ormerod
Here is my solution to the problem, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:646198by fotomas - Ormerod
Removed the external regulator and everything seems to work fine up til homing. I measured 4.95 V on pin 1-2. Have not tested printing yet, but that should not be any problem. Thanks for great help!by fotomas - Ormerod
A picture says more than.... So this is how I understand it: - Remove jumper at purple arrow - Add jumper at green arrow - Remove external regulator board and have 12 v go directly in to Duet at orange arrow - Disconnect PanelDue - Measure at red arrows What am I looking for when measuring? Anything not close to 5v is bad? => I will power the PanelDue via the USB port.by fotomas - Ormerod
I have an Ormerod 2 (Duet 0.6 with pins, not screwed terminals) with a Duex4 board and PanelDue attached. It has worked well with a small heatsink added to the 5v power regulator (on the small external board) , as recommended by dc42's PanelDue instructions. Recently I have had problems printing where the stepper motors starts to stutter a few minutes into the print. By coincidence I noticed thby fotomas - Ormerod
Already works in dc42's firmware. Set z-movements to half Height to get small enough adjustments. So during the first layer I sometimes adjust the height. This allows for much preciser adjustment than a sheet of paper and the trial and error time is virtually none. The problem is to remember the number of adjustments and modifying the config.g, I always forget.by fotomas - Ormerod
Wow great to se that it works for you. It brings me great joy that you went through the effort to make one. My guess is that for some reason at that point in the print the resistance for pushing the filament through the nozze got tio great for the tourqe that the extruder can deliver. As you are saying it could be cooling and\or the shaoe of the print. I havet also hade the exact same phenomenby fotomas - Ormerod
Here is a picture of what it looks like. One can see that the belt looks pretty good except for the problem with the extra extrution at layer change.by fotomas - Ormerod
ok, but is there a way to make slic3r (I slice with slic3r) to change layer at the column?by fotomas - Ormerod
The design stops me from changing the inner diameter for the roller to 9 mm. Otherwise I would have done that for you. The roller gets to thin with five mm and a thicker/bigger roller would not fit without modifying the position of the rollers. The TPU I am testing with I have forgotten the brand of but I have a roll of Torwell TPE that is a bit stiffer but harder to get to stick to the bed. Whby fotomas - Ormerod
I have made two attempts to print a belt of TPU filament. The first belt I drew exact to the spec of GT2 2 mm pitch. That looked nice but was to thin so the belt flexed too much under tension. The teeth were not sharp enough so the grip on the aluminium pulley was not good enough. I then redesigned the belt to be thicker and higher teeth. That gave a much better result in terms of grip and flexby fotomas - Ormerod
Treito: You got me thinking... why not. So I have to try it, most likely I will fail but maybe, just maybe it could work. So here goes; printing a GT2 belt: While printing I got thinking with coarser teeth on the belt a printed pulley may work too, who knows.... If that would work we are down to only bolts and bearings for the whole belt feeder/extruder. That would really be simplistic. One cby fotomas - Ormerod
I have managed to make it work pretty well. So those saying that is does not maybe not tried for them selves? Anyway this is one of the things I have printed: Of course it requires it's own set of settings when slicing.by fotomas - Ormerod
I have tried to print a pulley. It failed for me, it did not get enough grip. Probably due to the small diameter and a .5 mm nozzle. A bigger pulley would probably work but all avaliable torque is needed. So my conclusion is that an aluminium pulley is required. Profile of the teeth (MXL, GT2 etc.) does not matter as long as the belt is of proper length and width. Today I tried to feed TPU filby fotomas - Ormerod
I have made some more observations and it seems like that the drop of temperature does not occur if the temperature is low enough when staring the print. So it behaves the same if I preheat and start the print when the temperature is the desired first layer temp as when starting a print when the temperature is about 10-20 degrees below the desired print temp. And the behavior is that the temp stby fotomas - Ormerod
Quotedmould You appear to have put all your config settings into your print file, which is unnecessary and some of the commands may cause issues. Dave I think you have misread my post. There are two codebocks, one with config.g and one with the first lines in a print file.by fotomas - Ormerod
dc42; A power drop when all the motors turn on could be it. How would one go about measuring that? To check this in more detail I did a test print and when temp is high enough so that the print starts. It starts and then the temp dops slowly to about 234, so it seems it struggles to keep the temperature. But this is when pushing plastic through the nozzle. If I start the print too early I get anby fotomas - Ormerod
I often preheat the print head to the print temperature by setting the temp in the web interface. If I am too impatient and start a print when the temperature is 2 degrees less (or lesser) than the print temp, the temp drops like 10 degrees and slooowly rises back up again. I wonder if this effect can be avoided in any way. No major issue but annoying. This is what the temp chart looks like. Hby fotomas - Ormerod
Quoteappjaws1 It should work with all popular browsers---shouldn't it? No it does not. It is no small task to implement support for all variants of browsers. We should be grateful for all great functionality in DWC despite it is only compatible with chrome.by fotomas - Ormerod
Quoteappjaws1 Tried your beta3 firmware and I still have the same result. On the print screen, as soon as I confirm which a file to print, the %completion is 100% and all of the detailed boxes are at 0. I am using windows 10 and the new browser and slicing is with simplyfy3d. This is very strange. What do you mean by "the new browser"? The DWC is no t compatible with Microsoft a browser Edge,by fotomas - Ormerod
QuoteFpex On the duet 0.8.5 it is all you need to do. On the older one, I do not know. Works the same on Duet 0.6by fotomas - Ormerod
QuoteDarathy I cant seem to find a 212mm GT2 belt My bad, I am so so sorry. It should be 224 mm. I bought this one:by fotomas - Ormerod
Regarding the hole, I will make it 4,5 mm (4.2 is the correct size for tapping M5) plus some margin for the printer making it smaller. The hole should be shallow enough for the pneumatic fitting to hit the bottom. Otherwise the is a small risk that the filament catches the edge of the pneumatic fitting when loading filament. I will make it 4.5 x 3 (2 seems too shallow). --- Edit: Part uploadedby fotomas - Ormerod
I can easily adapt the design for you. Just tell me the size of the hole; diameter and depth. This is the label on the spool:by fotomas - Ormerod
QuoteDarathy Nice ,thanks. Btw where did u buy that orange Fillament? it looks nice! Looks like the do not carry that color any more. Here's yellow.by fotomas - Ormerod
Published on thingiverse: Please ad a "make" if you make one.by fotomas - Ormerod