That's a good idea. I am actually having an issue with sudden voltage drops and interference noises. It doesn't seem to happen when I have my fan on but I noticed it did happen once when the temp was not very high at all so I'm not sure if it's actually a temp issue. It is very similar to the problem I was having before I upgraded my wire gauge. So I think your idea might help me. It could be theby Draytology - RAMPS Electronics
O lampe that is an awesome idea moving the stepper plugs to the top which allows direct airflow on the heatsink, it just hit me why you had it on the top. One question, I am pretty new to 3d printing and have 0 experience with deltas, but you mentioned using a Nema 23 on the Z axis. I was under the impression that delta's use three identical motors and set ups for X,Y, and Z? Also, I am using aby Draytology - RAMPS Electronics
That is a very interesting idea O lampe! I have actually been thinking about putting together some kind of set up that would allow better cooling of the underside of the driver so I might try a variation of your set up. I soldered two drivers together a few weeks ago for fun, so I can definitely appreciate the precision soldering I see in the pic. Right now I have the thermistor positioned rightby Draytology - RAMPS Electronics
After finishing the experiment I paused the print and put the heatsink back on the driver. I was curious to see if the temp would actually fall back down to the range I recorded with the heatsink on. So I gave it another 10 minutes and recorded a temperature of 55.9 down from 62.5.by Draytology - RAMPS Electronics
Hello. I recently bought 10 100k thermistors. It wasn't until I received them that I realized they were only rated up to 125 C. But, although I really can't use them for my heated bed or hot end, I still managed to find something useful to use them for. I have heard many different opinions on whether or not a heat sink should be used. Of course we all agree a fan is without question beneficial. Sby Draytology - RAMPS Electronics
Just in case anyone knows of anything to check.by Draytology - Firmware - Marlin
I recently upgraded my lead screws and one motor to a Nema 23. Before the upgrade I had things pretty dialed in. And after the upgrade I only remember changing some speed settings and steps per mm. But, for some reason when I start a print the X and Y axis will shoot forward very quickly before taking there first bed height reading. Then, they will slow down to normal speed and continue taking thby Draytology - Firmware - Marlin
I am pretty sure you could just hook it up separately though using a relay or MOSFET and just plug your thermistor into the RAMPS. That's my plan because I am planning to power my heated bed with mains voltage.by Draytology - RAMPS Electronics
I use a buck converter to step down my 19.5v power supply to 12v. I don't see any reason why you couldn't just run two sets of wires from your PSU one straight to the board and the other to the converter, then the board. As long as your PSU has enough juice. I am not sure about mixing voltages though. I think the heated bed line is connected to the rest because you can power the heated bed througby Draytology - RAMPS Electronics
Ramps has two separate DC-in plugs specifically for powering your heated bed separately. The one closest to the bottom edge of the board (by the reset) is for everything but you heated bed and has a 5a polyfuse. The jack on the side closest to the MOSFET's is for your heated bed and I believe has a 16a polyfuse. Yes you can power them with different PSU as long as everything has the same ground rby Draytology - RAMPS Electronics
One cool thing other than the MAJOR boost in speed/performance is my Mega/Ramps seems to be able to handle this new setup much better. I'm guessing becuase I went from 4000+ steps per mm on X and Y down to 800! I am testing at speeds way past max speed for my former set up. I havent yet been able to really see what it's capable of but 60mm/s looks to be within reach.by Draytology - RAMPS Electronics
It is both X and Y they move forward about 50 mm and then take the remaining readings as if they started at 0. I seem to be having a lot of other strange problems, my Z just slammed into the bed, not sure what happened I wasn't watching. It could have been because of the X and Y issue that caused the probe to be past the bed. I only changed some speed settings and steps/mm. Everything was dialedby Draytology - RAMPS Electronics
I recently made some upgrades to my printer. I upgraded the lead screws and motors. I am very happy with the results! Might sound excessive but I think I increased my potential prints speeds by about 8X! I aiming to be one of the fastest non belt driven printers . Sadly I haven't been able to really open it up because I am having a frustrating and confusing problem I cannot figure out. I didn't cby Draytology - RAMPS Electronics
Hello. Tomorrow I will be purchasing 1 or 2 Nema 23 stepper motors to upgrade my 3d printer. I plan to eventually use it for some CNC applications so the small Nema 17's I am using now probably will not be sufficient. I plan to continue using my Ramps setup for now and would like to avoid buying a couple of the larger Toshiba drivers. The motor's draw 2.5a according the site, up from 1.8 for theby Draytology - RAMPS Electronics
I wanted to add a heated bed to my printer, but in terms of priority it is not at the top of my list for now. So I created one from things I had laying around. I have two soldering irons, one of which I dont use. It is 30 watts at 120v. It was not made to be disassembled, but my grinder fixed that. After the plastic handle was opened I realized it was basically empty. All it consists of is a metaby Draytology - Experimental and Hobby
To anyone looking to set up auto bed leveling that comes across this thread this is how I set it up. Once you have auto bed leveling hooked up and loaded into your firmware you can verfiy it is working by using the G29 command. If it works and you have it tuned to where you are satisfied you are good to go! To use this feature with your prints: 1) Load your model you will be printing. 2) Go iby Draytology - RAMPS Electronics
I think you might be right. Ever since I added the bigger motor I am right on the edge of what my PSU is capable of. I tried increasing the voltage the other day and it cut out. It is only rated for 3.43A at 19.5 volts. I usually draw 2.5 to 3.5 so I am probably only getting away with it since I am at 12v. I am looking for another PSU to either upgrade to or a seperate one and maybe control my hoby Draytology - RAMPS Electronics
I am very happy with the results of auto bed leveling using a switch. It really increases the quality of first layers, which raises the quality of prints as a whole. It was very easy to set up and I definitely recommend this upgrade to anyone considering it. Inductive probes have an advantage in having less moving parts but this was a very simple install and I personally wanted to keep my glass bby Draytology - RAMPS Electronics
Switched to a different print and it seems to be performing better.by Draytology - RAMPS Electronics
It seems like my printer is having a lot of trouble printing while having to do the extra processing of the bed level, I have not been able to get a print , it keeps saying connection timeout. Does anyone have any suggestions?by Draytology - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks for all the help guys I just got done setting up auto bed leveling and it went very smooth. For some reason there is some jitter in my servo whenever there is power going to my steppers, I am not sure if there is anything I can do to fix that but otherwise working very well. I am about to run my first print to see if it improves first layer quality. I finally took a couple pics of my setupby Draytology - RAMPS Electronics
I did not think to try increasing the voltage. Except for on my drivers which is set to .800v and .900v on X and Y. Right now I am at 12 volts and the max I can go to with my PSU is 19.5. My Ramps board should be able to handle it so I think I will definitely give that a shot. I'm slowly getting it dialed in, I have been tuning speeds settings for about 3 days alone. I have been doing some readinby Draytology - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
I think I am going to just grab another Ramps and a Due for $20 and mess around with those while I read up on my options for a few more weeks. Thanks for letting me know I was about to get one off ebay.....something's telling me that would have not been the V2.by Draytology - RAMPS Electronics
I had a lot of trouble with this when I first started but it's really simple. In order to make sure your axis and extruder are all synchronized all you have to do is find the steps per mm for each of them so you can put it into your firmware. If your setup is common you might be able to just look it up like I did for my extruder. If not you can easily figure it out. All you need to know is the tyby Draytology - RAMPS Electronics
Ok cool thank you for letting me know I just wanted to be sure before I start making mods to my Ramps. I didn't enable the endstop pullup because I guess that is how it is default when I downloaded it. // coarse Endstop Settings #define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors #ifndef ENDSTOPPULLUPS // fine endstop settingsby Draytology - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks for the tip I looked into the servo idea and it's not as difficult as I was expecting. I also have a microservo laying around so I am definitely going with that. Printing the bracket now! I can't find much info on the wiring of a different switch, particularly if I can just wire the switch in or if I need resistors in the circuit or something. I am just paranoid about damaging my Arduino.by Draytology - RAMPS Electronics
Well I printed a bracket to hold the switch to the back of my stepper motor. While eyeballing the fitment and placement of the switch I ran into my first problem that should have been obvious but didn't think of it at the time I decided to try this. the switch, even though it only has about a 1mm stroke until engagement would have to be mounted slightly lower than nozzle to work which would causeby Draytology - RAMPS Electronics
In my opinion you should never upload the firmware to the Arduino with the Ramps connected. I always disconnect my Arduino before I connect it to my laptop to update the firmware. The Arduino just seems to not respond well to being programmed while all of it's pins' are connected. I'm not sure why or if it's absolutely necessary but that is what I have noticed in my experience. I also disconnectby Draytology - RAMPS Electronics
While adjusting one of my endstops I accidentally shorted the pins with a screwdriver and my Arduino dissconnected, that's why I'm a little wary. Right now I have my switch wired to a spare stepper motor plug with the red and blue wires removed. I have a 1k resistor wired in only because I wasn't sure. I was about to test it then if it works get started on the firmware and bracket,by Draytology - RAMPS Electronics
Do I need to add a resistor?by Draytology - RAMPS Electronics