3DogNate I am in the middle of building a printer and plan on using the same combination of extruder and E3D except I will be using the bulldogXL. How did you account for the size mismatch between the e3D and bulldog mount? Did you use a metal shim or something else? I skimmed your posts and didn't see if you explained that yet. I see you have quite a lot of fans on your print head. Have yoby jzatopa - General
With the exception of "resolution management" we are already doing that with kisslicer or sli3r. "resolution management" is something that our sli3rs could easily manage. If we wanted to take that to another level you could use 2 print heads with 2 different nozzle sizes to really take that to the extreme. I am not so sure you will see a huge reduction in print time however.by jzatopa - General
What type of rods are you using for your Z? What layer height are you printing at?by jzatopa - Printing
I will be there. This event is a lot of fun and really brings out the people who are directly involved with reprap and 3d printing.by jzatopa - General
In this case I have no other option, otherwise I would move the rambo. I guess I could try to get something like this (http://www.panucatt.com/product_p/vikilcd.htm) to work but I really don't want to spend $75 just to get this to work.by jzatopa - General
Quotepiercet You need a pair of DB9 - DB9 Serial header cables.Two for example would work just fine assuming you keep it away from electrical interferance or shield it. I'm running that exact set of cables on my printer with a RAMPS 1.4 board. It seems to work fine. I need a way to extend the cables roughly 40". I ended up swinging by Frys and mistakenly buying DB9 serial cables, thinking thby jzatopa - General
Does anyone have a source for cables that will allow me to extend my LCD further from my Rambo board?by jzatopa - General
I think this accurately sums up the difference between 1.75mm and 3mm filament. Can you guys take your off topic stuff somewhere else?by jzatopa - General
"We also see issues where Bowden hotends are used as direct hotends by removing the coupler and simply mounting it as though it were a direct hotend. This is fine in principle, but there is an area of dead-space where the top of the hotend has been drilled out and tapped to accept the fitting. This dead space gives the filament and area to bow or buckle and this causes jams. It's an easy fix to uby jzatopa - General
As far as stepper motor whining is concerned there is really only one real fix,switch to 24V. It moves the frequency the steppers are stepped at. I found it to be a night and day difference. Another thing I can recommend is dampening feet printed out of ABS.by jzatopa - General
Does anyone have a rambo, smoothieboard or replicape for sale in the USA?by jzatopa - Wanted
Do you have any pics of prints from the machine?by jzatopa - Extruded Aluminum Frames
I still make my own parts and look at other 3d part repository sites guys....jeez I just wanted to point out that they seem to be suffering a bit of the "myspace" syndrome.by jzatopa - General
The past few times I have cruised Thingiverse I have been rather disappointed. Yeah there is a lot of "stuff" on there but it seems like there are fewer and fewer things worth printing. Has anyone else noticed this? Are people already migrating away from thingiverse and heading somewhere else?by jzatopa - General
Quotevreihen Quotejzatopa It would be nice if someone wrote a program that stored your basic printer settings and modified the firmware for you. Do you mean something like the Repetier 0.91 auto-configuration web tool, where you can upload your last configuration.h file as a base for your new build????? I have not seen that so the answer is, possibly, yes.by jzatopa - General
Every time I have upgraded my FW I have found some improvements. Most of them have been cosmetic (lcd display) but some are functional. There is no reason not to update your firmware. The biggest PIA is that you can't just copy your config.h file over. You have to go in and manually set all the settings. It would be nice if someone wrote a program that stored your basic printer settings andby jzatopa - General
You can try buying a 3d printer and doing what you want only through hardware but it really isn't going to work well. You might be able to use a resistor to bypass the thermistor but its way easier to modify the firmware. You are going to have to modify the firmware anyways to tune the printer to your nozzle unless your nozzle has some sort of adjustment you are planing on programing. Buildingby jzatopa - General
AJ any reprap should be able to do what you want but you will have to do a few things. You are going to have to learn how to modify the firmware to ignore temps (pretty easy) and control your valve/nozzle (may be easy, may be hard). You didn't mention what build volume you need so just about anything should work. If you are looking for something prebuilt I would check out seemecnc and makerstoby jzatopa - General
I guess you could say I am taking Z axis stiffness to a whole new levelby jzatopa - General
The 2.0 has a slightly larger build volume and it's more open design makes it easier to do things IMO.by jzatopa - General
Don't walk, run to go get aluminum couplers. I will not go back after using themby jzatopa - General
If you print with ABS, yes, it is that good.by jzatopa - General
Quotebobc Wow, you still got a grudge against Prusa. You should just let it go man! Of course, there is no such thing as "true cost", it is all relative. Supply and demand. I disagree with the idea of tipping as a % of sales in Open Source as a customary practice. It is too close to paying a royalty for the use of IP, which is the exact opposite intention of Open Source. If you have some develoby jzatopa - General
Ohioplastics you would benefit from some basic business and manufacturing classes. At a minimum you should consider reading a few books. It is obvious that you sell your hotend as a side business and do not rely on your sales to survive. I don't have a problem with that, in fact I think it's great. It doesn't, however, give you any insight into a real full time business and the related costsby jzatopa - General
I just finished a review of the Makeraser on my website if anyone is interested. For those of you who don't know what makeraser is. It is an acetone pen for smoothing prints, preping printbeds, and removing prints from the bed. It has made ABS printing a whole lot more enjoyable for me. If you want to check it out, here is the link to the kickstarter.by jzatopa - General
I'm not sure 100% what the problem is Could you post a picture of the board as well, with the steppers plugged in? I just want to make sure that they are wired correctly. You might want to try some other settings here const int NUM_AXIS = 4; // The axis order in all axis related arrays is X, Y, Z, E #define _MAX_FEEDRATE {400, 400, 2, 45} // (mm/sec) #define _HOMING_FEEDRATE {1500,1500,120by jzatopa - General
In firmware Check your current settings, check your steps per cm setting, check your acceleration and max speed settings. It might help if you post your config.hby jzatopa - General
There are few people working on it but they are out there. You might want to look into protopasta products as well. FYI You can find standard parts strength test prints on thingiverse. One of the problems is that there are so many factors involved. If you are going to continue doing testing on your own you will really need to make sure you track everything. Some of the main factors are desigby jzatopa - General
Well I just bit the bullet to try the bulldog and bulldog xl out. Once I am done with testing them I will be sure to share.by jzatopa - General
Just ordered mine for testing with the bulldog XL. Can't wait to try it out.by jzatopa - General