Quoterunninfarmer Cool idea with the foam filled extrusions. I'm interested to see how well they perform! Thanks! Again, this was in an effort to conserve filament as well as add rigidity at a low cost. So far they seem to be working pretty well!by redhatman - CoreXY Machines
Onto the extrusions, note that these are hollow, most of the frame components ended up being foam filled and 15-20% infill as well. 2 cans for $5 at Menards Since this stuff is such a mess to work with, and I was injecting all of these at 4 points each, I decided it would be beneficial to make some sort of divider tool to help distribute the foam vs. filling 4 holes each. I clamped thby redhatman - CoreXY Machines
Corner pieces, almost final rev. I ended up printing 4 of these, and for the last 4, I added chamfers to countersink the bolt heads to the CAD file, leaving the first 4 brackets to chamfer by hand (drill bit). The reason I was always printing parts is because I had a time limit of 3 months to finish this project (while I had full access and time to use the Prusa). Considering these corner bracketby redhatman - CoreXY Machines
Time to do some experimentation and designing! Extrusions and corners would be first, this would be the backbone of the printer. In an effort to conserve filament for the primarily plastic printer, I used expanding foam on nearly all parts. The parts were printed using anywhere from 0-20% infill, depending on where their function. I avoided using foam in places which may be exposed to heat. Thby redhatman - CoreXY Machines
by redhatman - CoreXY Machines
Okay... At last... Once doing lots of brainstorming and sketching during class (whoops), I decided I wanted to use common parts, and build the printer around those. Some of which, but not limited to (I'm sure I'll forget some things) are: -Nema 17 Motors -E3D Style Hot End -Bowden Setup -CoreXY -Ramps 1.4 / Mega -Lots of 608 Bearings -GT2 Belts -8mm Smooth Rod -8mm x 1.25 Threaded Rod (WAY cheaby redhatman - CoreXY Machines
LarsK, those are some cool links you provided! Thanks! I meant to get all of the pictures I have posted last night, however I was trying to resize them to comply with the forum limits and after using 2 different programs on 100 photos I had no desirable results worth dealing with. Currently uploading to photobucket as we speak, so we'll just have to go that route.by redhatman - CoreXY Machines
Quotegmh39 So you're trying to save ~$30 for in the hope that printed extrusion will hold up? I'm sure there are much better ways to accomplish your goal. Are you set on designing the printer yourself? If not, check out the Smart Core. It's a CoreXY designed by the guys that did the Smart Rap printer. If you are, I'm 100% positive you can get enough to make the frame (a basic cube) for lessby redhatman - CoreXY Machines
Hello Fellow RepRappers, After some brainstorming with other members and deciding which route to take with my new printer build, I decided to go the CoreXY route. ( ) With a target goal of a cubic foot build area, yet a low budget of roughly $500, compromises had to be made wherever possible. The main one budget cut was substituting the standard 20x20 Aluminum Extrusions. After doing some calcby redhatman - CoreXY Machines
Update: CAD work/parts printed and ready to assemble ~90% complete. Assembly of complete printer itself ~75%. I'll be starting a detailed build thread soon (Project name is still pending).by redhatman - General
Quotemarcething Hi Pat ,ยต did you already had time to download them to Thingiverse or somewhere else?by redhatman - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Quotemarcething Hi Pat, are the files for making this frame available somewhere, or would youshare them please? Thanks in advance Marc Hey Marc, yes I could upload them to thingiverse. I would like to note (and will note) that these parts were designed to match the printing "habits" or "tolerances" if you will, of the i2 that's printing them. Meaning the borders were modified accordingly. (Maiby redhatman - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
QuoteJ.A.C. Are the "Cube" structure hold by printed plastic parts? if so, at lest add 8 metal brackets to hold them and remove any future stress for the structure. Could you elaborate please? I'm not quite sure what you're referring to.by redhatman - General
QuoteJ.A.C. I have the same interest as you Redhatman, I am looking forward to see the evolution ^_^ Great to hear! Yes, I'm also very anxious to see if this works out. Here's some teaser photos for everyone until I can get around to starting an official build thread. Front Rear view/ X-Y Motor Mountingby redhatman - General
Update, the build is underway. I will post back with a link to the build thread once started. I have designed every part of the printer at this point in cad and have most of the parts printed. I've decided to go with a corexy setup along with... (Gasp) primarily all printed parts, and yes that includes the frame. Details to follow, thanks again for everyone's input!by redhatman - General
After some testing, I've decided it was indeed probably not worth my time to actually implement. What are my options for heatbeds? Besides doing two standard sized (200 x 200) side by side, has anyone successfully made a single, larger one, say 300 x 300?by redhatman - General
For fun, I've decided to try and test out some of those blocks. These are 35mm x 35mm, however I feel they may be too large so I've scaled it and will try some 26 x 26mm as well. I plan on trying to load these similar to a bridge to test the strength in bending, as well as physically twisting it to see how it holds up to torsional loads. What do you all think about this? Is it a waste of time?by redhatman - General
HOLY REPLIES! Keep them coming, this is a lot of useful information. Thank you thank you thank you! After reading through these replies I do like the core-xy design. I guess I'm not opposed to a moving platform, but I would prefer the bed to only move in the z direction if it's going to move. As for the Bowden thing I mentioned, I'm currently running a wades geared setup and have no problems witby redhatman - General
Hello fellow reprappers! I have been successfully printing on my Prusa i2 for a while now, which I built with a friend of mine. I'm looking to build another, and he would keep the Prusa. So for my question, if you were to recommend a printer, which would it be? Here's what I'm looking to accomplish - Precision equal to, or better than the Prusa i2 - Speed equal to, or better than the (at leasby redhatman - General
Hello everyone! As the title says, I'm looking to revamp my Prusa i2. The machine is functioning pretty well at this point, so I would like to take the step and make it have an ACTUAL print area of 200 x 200 x 100 (mm). There's always the chance that I put together my Prusa backwards, but with it already being a smaller printer, I was disappointed to find out that if I want to home the prints dby redhatman - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
QuoteDinoK @redhatman Can you please give some STL or(and) GCode examples of your failed prints ? I would like to try and print them myself as I have been researching this issue myself. Essentially, if a part involves a circle hole, it will come out undersized. I made a circle test plate to use as a calibration/practice part which is used solely for messing around with this stuff. I have attachby redhatman - Printing
Assuming that shrinkage is negligible, and all print temp/flow settings are perfect for straight edge parts, wouldn't the only issue left be the one Wissing mentioned? I have now tried Slic3r, Kisslicer, and Cura all with the same results. I have managed to get better looking parts with all of this messing around, however I still do not have accurate inner dimensions for circles. I would be inby redhatman - Printing
Hi everyone! I've managed to get my Prusa i2 printing pretty smoothly, however one issue still exists. I cannot get circles to print out to be the correct size. I created a circle test plate with holes ranging from 12mm to 3mm, and all holes are coming out small by a pretty fairly consistent measurement of 0.7mm under. i.e. (12mm = 11.3mm actual ID, 11mm = 10.3mm actual ID...etc) My current seby redhatman - Printing
QuoteCefiar Where did you get the thermistor that is in the hot end you have? If you can find the correct table for it (or calculate it) then you'll get much better results. You may find that the calibration is still off (eg: 240 when it's say 200) and that your temp readings are not as accurate as you'd like. Cefiar, I was using the correct thermistor table according to the manufacturer specs,by redhatman - Controllers
UPDATE: After adjusting the thermistor tables as NoobMan suggested (thanks again), I was able to toy with it and get the hotend reading correctly on pronterface. To avoid screwing up the calibration of the heatbed, I made a copy of the table #1, renamed it, and assigned the hotend to it. As far as extruding PLA, I have also got that working. There have been a few stupid assembly errors in termby redhatman - Controllers
QuoteNoobMan The meat thermometer probably does not show correct surface temperature, being round and surface flat etc. The thermistor table in firmware contains one adc column and one temperature column. The firmware reads the adc value and translates it to temperature by the use of that thermistor table. You can calibrate the thermistor table manually. You can take each row, and from the tablby redhatman - Controllers
Hello RepRap Community! The excitement is real, I have finally began building a 3D printer. However, after tackling many issues, I still have at least one left before doing a test print. My current setup is: -Prusa i2 -MK2 Heatbed -550W Modified Computer Power Supply -Sanguinololu Board (I believe 1.2 or 1.3) -Marlin Firmware -Geared Extruder -Prusa Nozzle Hotend, 0.4 tip (stainless steel, seeby redhatman - Controllers