Sorry Dust - I've just re-read your answer and realised that you'd given me that information!by David J - RAMPS Electronics
This is a very simple question (I hope): I am wiring up a socket so that I can power my delta printer with an XBox 360 203W PSU. All is going splendidly so far - I can turn the PSU on and off by connecting the 5v and sense wires in the PSU socket. Now I am planning to use PS-ON as a way of controlling the PSU, leaving me with the option of turning it on with a switch or via the software. I knby David J - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks for that. I've already done the demo led flash so I'm hopeful that the arduino board is OK (although I do have a spare). Do you happen to know where the suspect track goes from (i.e. which side of the diode) and to where? If I know where it's supposed to go then I can try tracing it through with my multimeter. Otherwise I'll just do a search in the RAMPS area. Davidby David J - RAMPS Electronics
I have a new Chinese clone RAMPS board (Geeetech) that seems to be working properly when I do basic tests while I'm waiting for my heat bed to arrive. However, if I just turn on the 12v with the USB disconnected then the LCD display stays off - I guess the Arduino isn't powered up. Everything works when I turn on 12v AND have the USB connected. Now I know about D1, and it is in place - before Iby David J - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteDust But it very evident there is zero qc. Quality control? What's that? I recently bought a Chinese-made RAMPS clone from a UK supplier (clearly a UK sales outlet for a Chinese distributor), and had all sorts of issues: it simply wouldn't talk to some of the stepper drivers. Disassembled everything and took a close look at the board with a 30X loupe - I found tiny blobs and hair-like tracby David J - RAMPS Electronics
I'd say that your heat bed is now scrap, it should be removed immediately and never used again! The questions I'd ask include: What sort of heat bed is it? Are you sure you wired it properly? Were the soldered-on wires nice and tidy, and not contacting any other track on the heat bed? Did it look scratched, marked or badly bent when you installed it? (Note: PCB heatbeds do usually come very sby David J - Safety & Best Practices
Quotedougal1957 Eh guys Just had an E-Mail from E3D announcing a new hotend for £21.50 see E3D V6 Lite ok wont go as hot or fast as a full V6 but will still do ABS at reasonable speeds. No reason at all to go for Chinese copies now eh. Doug Damn... just bought an E3D v6 in 1.75mm! I could have managed quite nicely with one of the new ones...by David J - Delta Machines
I'm making progress - all but one of my motors are now running properly, with the Z being the exception. At least that localises the problem and gives me a fair chance to fix it! Many thanks to vreihen for the hint on setting the drivers - it looks like mine are Pololu clones. That, plus changing the RAMPS board over to a spare one, seems to have got me further down the line. Now for some fuby David J - Delta Machines
That's a useful page - are the Chinese knock-off stepper drivers usually Pololu clones? They seem to have the same component layout. I'm having a bad time with my RAMPS setup at the moment - had a good look at the bottom of the RAMPS shield and found many tiny solder blobs and streaks. Cleared all the ones I could see with a high-power lens, but I couldn't look under the connection pins for anby David J - Delta Machines
This info is as good as any: RepRap wiki - look for the section called "adjusting and testing". Also, have a look at this : nophead on the RepRap forumby David J - Delta Machines
The good news is that I have finished my Cherry Pi IIIs, with the exception of the heated bed that's still winging its way from China. With this in mind I thought I'd try to see whether things are moving in the right direction when commands are sent from RepetierHost. The not-so-good news is that the motors aren't moving as I expected, and I'm having some difficulty sorting it out. I suspect tby David J - Delta Machines
QuoteAndyCart QuoteDavid J Oh - one more question - I'm a bit puzzled about the end-stop wiring on the RAMPS board: do the wires go from S to -, or S to + in this configuration? I've seen instructions on web pages that contradict each other. I connect to the outboard two pins so S and -VE. As long as you don't short out the 5V rail (inboard two pins) you should be fine Excellent - I guessed coby David J - Delta Machines
Oh - one more question - I'm a bit puzzled about the end-stop wiring on the RAMPS board: do the wires go from S to -, or S to + in this configuration? I've seen instructions on web pages that contradict each other.by David J - Delta Machines
How far does the Z carriage travel down the extrusion in use? Or, to look at it the other way round, how close does the bottom of the Z carriage get to the bottom of the extrusion where it sticks out of the bottom corner bracket? I'm trying to tidy up the wiring from the extruder and hot-end after it's passed through the Z upright, and I'd like to know how far up I can put clips! The slot in tby David J - Delta Machines
Quotegowen Quotegowen With this added it compiled and installed fine although I did get these messages. Sketch uses 121,982 bytes (48%) of program storage space. Maximum is 253,952 bytes. Global variables use 6,386 bytes (77%) of dynamic memory, leaving 1,806 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 8,192 bytes. Low memory available, stability problems may occur. It appears this warning appearedby David J - Delta Machines
Quotegowen QuoteDavid J I've decided to experiment with the power input - I'm planning to use a 203W Xbox PSU to power the printer, so I've decided to take the obvious route and try to fit an Xbox power socket to match. This will have numerous advantages: I won't need to modify the PSU lead. It's built to take all the power the PSU can offer. I will probably be able to fit a switch to turn theby David J - Delta Machines
I've finally worked out where R4 is on mine - and it is 10k ohms. Reasonably easy to short out though (hopefully!) as it's on the edge of the board.by David J - Delta Machines
QuoteAndyCart QuoteDavid J Andy, Am I right in thinking that you recommend doing the mod on the StepStick motor drivers - shorting out R4, I think? I'll be starting off by using your configuration.h file, so I'll need to match your setup as much as possible. I will be using the 3 links under each driver board. I have the right soldering kit to make this mod, but I only want to do it if it's aby David J - Delta Machines
Andy, Am I right in thinking that you recommend doing the mod on the StepStick motor drivers - shorting out R4, I think? I'll be starting off by using your configuration.h file, so I'll need to match your setup as much as possible. I will be using the 3 links under each driver board. I have the right soldering kit to make this mod, but I only want to do it if it's a real benefit.by David J - Delta Machines
A question about heat - relates to delta printers in general, not just the Cherry Pi. Most deltas tuck all the motors and electronics within the base, thus restricting the air flow quite a lot. Then people go and put a heated bed on top (some of which are quite powerful) which must radiate some heat downwards. As I intend to have some form of heated bed on my printer, should I be thinking abby David J - Delta Machines
QuoteAndyCart If you use NO limit switches ... I thought the limit switches were NC?by David J - Delta Machines
You could print in nylon? Not tried it myself, and I believe it requires a high extrusion temperature, but the filament is available.by David J - General
I've been getting e-sun filament from HobbyKing, via their UK warehouse (I live about 30 minutes drive from them!). They have all the basic colours, although what they call red is more 'chinese red', i.e. a reddish-orange. It prints well, no vices spotted so far, and comes in a vacuum-packed bag with dessicant and all in a strong box. All spools are 500g, which is good if you want to get a ranby David J - General
Andy, Much appreciated. Davidby David J - Delta Machines
Quotedougal1957 QuoteDavid J Now that's a thought... but how would you turn it on, if the Arduino hasn't got any power? ...one of life's conundrums! Ah but if you have a PC connected by USB then the Arduino does have power doesn't it? Doug Ah... sneaky!by David J - Delta Machines
Andy, Back on page 2 you uploaded a configuration.h file - would that still be a good starting point for me, or have things changed?by David J - Delta Machines
Now that's a thought... but how would you turn it on, if the Arduino hasn't got any power? ...one of life's conundrums!by David J - Delta Machines
Fair point - but I *think* I've got it right!by David J - Delta Machines
I've decided to experiment with the power input - I'm planning to use a 203W Xbox PSU to power the printer, so I've decided to take the obvious route and try to fit an Xbox power socket to match. This will have numerous advantages: I won't need to modify the PSU lead. It's built to take all the power the PSU can offer. I will probably be able to fit a switch to turn the PSU on and off remotelyby David J - Delta Machines
Not to worry - I'll use the EC3 connector, as discussed earlier. It's not a great big issue, and should still look neat!by David J - Delta Machines