Thanks for all the input everyone, much appreciated! I'll report back here with the results (may not be for a few days though). Thanks again. Bartby bartdietrich - Ormerod
Ok thanks, that sounds like a good idea. I seem to remember seeing a potentiometer on the back of the PSU when assembling the Ormerod 2 and wondering whether that's what it was for. So neither the Duet nor your hot end board will mind the increased voltage? Just in case that isn't enough and we go with the external power supply, have you got a figure for the absolute maximum voltage the bed canby bartdietrich - Ormerod
Hi all, We will be attempting to print with POM (polyformaldehyde/polyacetal/acetal/polyoxymethylene). It needs to be POM because of its inertness to chlorinated solvents. We want to print NMR spinners and since chloroform is the most commonly used NMR solvent, we don't want spillages to start dissolving and sticking the spinner to the inside of the probe (could be extremely expensive and disruby bartdietrich - Ormerod
Ok, I was thinking of manual soldering...by bartdietrich - Experimental and Hobby
Quotedc42 That's a nice idea! I have some copper clad board so I might try it. It occurs to me that by using interchangeable tool heads (easy on a delta printer with magnetic rod ends), the small holes for through-hole component leads could be drilled too. I guess the PLA resist could be removed by heating to about 80C and scraping it off. If it's anything like PLA on Kapton tape then you couby bartdietrich - Experimental and Hobby
Quotefrankvdh Only scrape the PLA off the solder pads, so it protects the traces from shorts. From that and from corrosion. Could actually be a good idea to leave the plastic on as protection...by bartdietrich - Experimental and Hobby
Hi all, Was just wondering if anyone tried printing on copper? Does the plastic stick? I'm aware that there's a KickStarter thing going about printing complete PCBs (with traces and all) but all I'm after is just printing the etch mask on a copper board. Would the mask be resistant to e.g. ferric chloride (PLA being a polyester might struggle there a bit for example)? Has anyone tried this? Is tby bartdietrich - Experimental and Hobby
Hi all, This may be of interest to the firmware developers here. Apologies if this is a known issue. I have had problems with some of the stats the web interface was reporting during a print: the first layer timer would never stop (or never start in the first place), first layer height would be wrong or n/a, and the layer counter would start at some number other than 1 (usually three, sometimesby bartdietrich - Ormerod
Hi, Thanks for your reply. Taking the bits needed out of a plug is the last resort, least elegant solution: we'll do that if we can't get the pins separately. And no, we're not making an RCD. Cheers, Bartby bartdietrich - Experimental and Hobby
Hi all, I have a very specific query and it is obliquely related to 3D printing which is why I'm posting it on these forums. We have/are building some electronics which we want to house in a 3D-printed enclosure (we have printers, that's not the issue) complete with UK mains plug (and socket on the other side), something which will go between a socket and the load. In the style of commerciallyby bartdietrich - Experimental and Hobby
Hi all, In case anyone is still reading this thread, a quick update. So far as concerns the wrong stats (first layer counter not stopping, first layer number being 2 or 3, first layer heigh being n/a or 0.1), I started printing one of the example g-code files that came with the printer (i.e. one that I did not slic3 myself) and the stats are all correct. So it looks like my Slic3r configurationby bartdietrich - Ormerod
Hi FatFreddie, I checked: the "use relative E distances" box in Slic3r is ticked, and there's also an M83 command in the start code, just in case I guess. Bartby bartdietrich - Ormerod
Hi Dave, Thanks for your reply, I was typing my last message while you posted yours so didn't see yours straight away. I did mention a recent Windows update as a possible cause of the problem in my original post (especially considering that both printers are controlled from Vista machines) but no one took me up on it! The problem seems to be solved now that I've installed dc42's firmware on botby bartdietrich - Ormerod
Hi all, So following all the advice here, here's what I did: I connected the home printer to the control PC directly via a network cable and turned the WiFi on the PC off: no chance of any other network traffic interfering with communications between PC and printer. This did not solve the problem as I got disconnections pretty much straight away again after starting a print. Installing dc42'sby bartdietrich - Ormerod
Quotebgkdavis Quotebartdietrich Quotebgkdavis One thing I have noticed with the Duet is it can be sensitive to other network traffic, I found that when I turned my TV on then my Printer would start shuddering and the connection would become unreliable, the eventual cause, was identified as my HDMI-LAN converters that allowed me to distribute SAT TV to other rooms in my house. This problem was fiby bartdietrich - Ormerod
Quotedmould A wired Ethernet LAN should not suffer too much from high network traffic between nodes that do not include the printer and web client. Congestion occurs when the traffic is passing through a common node - e.g. the Internet gateway, the "backbone" connection between two different hubs (switches) or WiFi connections via the same hotspot. Regardless, a bad Ethernet connection should nby bartdietrich - Ormerod
Quotebgkdavis One thing I have noticed with the Duet is it can be sensitive to other network traffic, I found that when I turned my TV on then my Printer would start shuddering and the connection would become unreliable, the eventual cause, was identified as my HDMI-LAN converters that allowed me to distribute SAT TV to other rooms in my house. This problem was fixed in one of the newer firmwareby bartdietrich - Ormerod
QuoteFatFreddie It could be this (http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?340,522632,522632#msg-522632) problem which Dave corrected a while ago. Hi FatFreddie, Ok, so I would need to change the firmware to dc42. I may do that, but that still doesn't explain why my home printer/computer were fine for several months and have now suddenly started having issues with disconnections. The work printer is aby bartdietrich - Ormerod
Quotezombiepantslol Hi Bart, I suggest you upgrade to either dc42's firmware or to my latest one. Don't forget to add the M574 code as seen here to your config.g file. The reason you're experiencing this problem is an invalid JSON response sent from the firmware and I remember having fixed a related bug a while ago. If an upgrade doesn't fix your symptoms, this would mean you're having a reallyby bartdietrich - Ormerod
Hi all, I have an issue with the Ormerod 2 RepRap firmware web interface. We got an Ormerod 2 at work a month or so ago and I updated the firmware to whatever the most recent version was then. It is set up to use DHCP and controlled from Opera on Windows Vista via a network switch. Since the beginning we've had the problem that usually, shortly after starting a print job, the web interface discoby bartdietrich - Ormerod
Apologies for the random message which contains no questions at all! But then again I'm not that apologetic about posting it... After a few months with my Ormerod 2 and a slightly bumpy start I finally got to the stage where I can design and print things more or less reliably: for home and for work. Just today I ordered another Ormerod 2 (from RS but presumably the money still finds its way backby bartdietrich - General
I realised I was supposed to pull it off about 6 minutes after finishing the build. I may get around to doing this at some point. But only the parts which don't require any disassembly. :-) Bartby bartdietrich - Ormerod
Hi gazoox, I realised that after finishing nearly the entire build. I'll get around to it at some point. But I'll only do the parts that don't require any disassembly. :-) Bartby bartdietrich - Ormerod
Hi Christian, Just fired the printer and computer up again and today the web interface appears to be working. Sorry if I caused any inconvenience/alarm. And congratulations on the new job! Bartby bartdietrich - Ormerod
Hi all, I've just upgraded to the new 1.09 RepRap firmware and copied all relevant files from the SD-image folder to the SD card (including everything in www). I can see and connect (eventually) to the printer via the new web interface. The printer controls work but anything to do with SD file operations doesn't. That is, I can't delete files from the card or print them, or upload and print (wheby bartdietrich - Ormerod
Fair enough, although that's not what WD40's own website says ("light lubricant"). May not be suitable for heavy duty use, but a 12V fan is hardly a heavy duty application. And once my fan gets going, it's so much more quiet than it used to be. :-) Thanks dmould for the RS part number. I was placing a partially work-related order with RS anyway so just slipped that in. Saves me trawling throughby bartdietrich - Ormerod
Quoteormerod168 yes, changing the bearing for a 10 mm was one of the first mods, another fix could be to glue a hacksaw to the x-axis plate as I did on ormerod1a Hi Erik, I thought of doing something similar but being lazy, I'd rather disassemble as little as possible so the 10 mm bearing seemed like the easiest way out. And it seems to do the job. :-) Quoteormerod168 Agreed, being mop-less isby bartdietrich - Ormerod
Thanks for the input everyone! QuoteDarathy For a spoolholder i found this: ,looks awsome! Does indeed look pretty cool! In the meantime, I designed my own (see photo). Nothing ground braking but functional. Am a bit concerned about the weight the triangular bit that holds the spool has to support now (the spool is sagging a tiny bit) but it's good enough for the time being.by bartdietrich - Ormerod
Hi David, Thanks for that, back to eBay then, this time looking for fans. WD40 is also a lubricant though. A major component of it by volume is a volatile solvent which evaporates quickly but this then leaves behind a non-volatile coating of lubricant. Cheers, Bartby bartdietrich - Ormerod
Hi all, My hot end fan takes 30-60 or so seconds to spin up to what is presumably full speed after the printer has been turned off for any length of time (like overnight). At first it doesn't spin at all, with only the occasional stepwise lurch forward. When helped along manually, it does a few steps under its own steam then stops again. It gradually picks up speed until it's constant after a miby bartdietrich - Ormerod