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Building an electronic art project? Or a software radio? Think blue LEDs are cool? Are you a circuit bender? Discuss it here.
Re: Induction heater - 7 years ago
I managed to melt some PLA, however, coil got too warm too quickly, also stainless steel throat heated up much quicker than brass. What is encouraging is that this circuit did not use more than 30W and had no trouble heating up throat and nozzle inserted into the coil (SS throat used is slightly magnetic). Based on this quick test coil needs to be much smaller and stay cooler, plus throat needsby newbob - General
Re: RIP large Kossel and Rostock deltas - C beam Deltas are next big thing - 7 years ago
Quotesimspeed Here is a C-Beam Delta design I drew up a year or two ago. This would use 1000mm C-Beams for the verticals and 4040 extrusions for the triangulated top. The base uses 8020 for the base perimeters. The usable bed space is 500mm dia. Nice. I'm building delta that has top and bottom like your design's top (except that plates in the corners go on the sides to counteract slanting oby newbob - Delta Machines
Re: Is the universe real? - 7 years ago
How long do I need to be printing ABS to experience Depersonalization disorder?by newbob - General
Re: Need help with print banding - 7 years ago
Quotegadittri The part that connect lead screw to the bed does not look 'beefy', at least as compared to other parts. Could it be that it's flexing?by newbob - General
Re: Induction heater - 7 years ago
Quoteleadinglights @newbob, Thanks for the pointers to the inductance calculators, I found they gave a different value to the one that I had used. Your one was right and the inductance now comes out at 0.77microhenries - the other one (allaboutcircuits I think) said 1.92microhenries. I have spend a bit of time browsing the web and even joined another forum to get more background. The biggest wby newbob - General
Re: Induction heater - 7 years ago
Considering that I want my coil to be 15mm tall I'm looking at multilayer coils, specifically double wound coil. According to calc below I'll need to reduce number of turns per layer to 4 to maintain same inductance. Air coil calculator: Coil that comes with the heater:by newbob - General
Re: TB6600 and 2.5A 0.9deg steppers for delta any good? - 7 years ago
It'll be 12mm pitch lead screw therefore max travel would be 160mm/sec. I want to print ceramic as well so I figured I'll try screw drive first.by newbob - General
TB6600 and 2.5A 0.9deg steppers for delta any good? - 7 years ago
I'm considering using 2.5A 0.9deg steppers for my Delta printer. Since current controllers cannot drive steppers higher than 24V and 2A I'm considering using TB6600 drivers (1/32 capable). Since steppers would be 0.9deg, driver would be set to 1/8 or 1/16 microstepping (32bit controller). I'm hoping to gain more torque at speed (up to 800RPM) while driving steppers with 36V and >2A compareby newbob - General
Re: Induction heater - 7 years ago
Quoteleadinglights That is an instructive video but with care an inductive heater can be made with only a modicum of electronic knowledge. The main "gotchas" are that the Royer circuit needs a fast switch on and that the the type of capacitor is very important. Having said that, for hotend use in a 3D printer it would be nice to drive it with the same PWM input as used with a resistive heater. Toby newbob - General
Re: Scared about my Anet a8 order - 7 years ago
QuoteDancer Quotenewbob ... Yes, by all means, you have to use forced air cooling if you stuff it in any type of enclosure. And if you do this, you are delivering fresh Oxygen to the fire and spreading it out of the Box again. Never heard anything more stupid like your Suggestion. Sorry. Buy reliable parts, do a clean setup, install a smoke detector, place a fire extinguisher where you can grabby newbob - General
Re: Scared about my Anet a8 order - 7 years ago
QuoteDavid J Quotenewbob Consider stuffing power supply and board into a metal enclosure to stop potential fire from spreading: Not sure if you're serious or not - but unless you let lots of air into the enclosure it's going to overheat and burn anyway! Yes, by all means, you have to use forced air cooling if you stuff it in any type of enclosure.by newbob - General
Re: Induction heater - 7 years ago
After watching this I decided against assembling my own circuit.by newbob - General
Re: Scared about my Anet a8 order - 7 years ago
Consider stuffing power supply and board into a metal enclosure to stop potential fire from spreading:by newbob - General
Re: Induction heater - 7 years ago
I've done some more reading and I think I'll go with horseshoe inductor positioned on two sides of the nozzle instead of trying to squeeze enough coil around it. I'm also looking at ways of focusing the magnetic flux to direct it precisely at the end of the nozzle where I think it should be (I maybe wrong and may get oozing and not enough melting speed but I'm curious the outcome).by newbob - General
Re: Small, light, effective fan shrouds for popular hotend designs - 7 years ago
Quoteshortyski13 Do you think the cooling scheme in this design will work well, or do you think 2 fans on either side is really needed? (Pictures attached). Essentially, I upgraded the 30mm fan on the V6 hotend heatsink to 40mm and ducted it, just to give that some extra cooling and help prevent creep at higher temperatures, and then used the stock 30mm fan that comes with the hotend to blow fanby newbob - General
Re: RIP large Kossel and Rostock deltas - C beam Deltas are next big thing - 7 years ago
QuoteWZ9V If you don't want to use wheels you would be way better off using 60x40 extrusions instead. That would give you the nice big verticals and proper alignment of the linear rail. The top/bottom plate approach does make for an easy assembly and seems pretty stiff even at the Little Monster's 1.2M height. If Openbuilds would start making 100x40 C-Beam that would be fun because you could tby newbob - Delta Machines
Re: Removing vertical lines on prints - 7 years ago
Quoteswoozle Quotenebbian Quoteswoozle Conclusion: you can play with layer heights but the real fix is to add the diode mod or change the decay mode (if you can). That's excellent data, swoozle! Really nice before and after pictures. It's great to have another way of removing moire. Did you use four normal 1N4007 diodes on the lines that needed it, or did you use a TLSmoother on it? I thinkby newbob - Delta Machines
Re: Recommendations for a first build? - 7 years ago
o Get a Tevo kit or another one made of 2020 alu profiles. Assemble, tweak. o Print HyperCube parts. o Dissassemble Tevo, get additional 2020 profiles, pulleys, belts, bearings, etc. o Build CoreXY HyperCube o Tweak o Design your own Delta.by newbob - Reprappers
Re: RIP large Kossel and Rostock deltas - C beam Deltas are next big thing - 7 years ago
Below is the link to the review of the tevo printer, probably one of the best reviews of any printer. As much as I'm not a big fan of rollers they seem to perform ok and big issue are stepper drivers of all things (it's tevo's big mistake since it's widely known that 8225 do not work well above 12V) Here's sister design with 2060 I found on reprap (apparently the frame was on a kickstarter inby newbob - Delta Machines
Re: Heated Build Chamber - Temperature Control - 7 years ago
Quoteetfrench I used rigid insulation on two sides of my delta. I'm still working on the design for the third side as I want the extruder outside the enclosure. Currently I'm just using a piece of plastic bag to cover the front. The temperature several inches above the print bed stays around 40C. I expect eliminating drafts is more beneficial than the temperature. I would not want that in myby newbob - Reprappers
Re: RIP large Kossel and Rostock deltas - C beam Deltas are next big thing - 7 years ago
Usually linear rails have no detectable slop. When two are used in parallel one is high precision and other normal precision so they don't lock up. Maybe with some Chinese linear rails there's more play - mine are solid ( I have MGN15H)by newbob - Delta Machines
Re: Choice for first printer - 7 years ago
Quoteakis_t Hello everyone I am considering buying my first 3D printer and would like to know what the panel suggests between the two below: this one with two extruders: or this one with just one extruder and what looks like a less sturdy frame (there is no base) but very much cheaper : money not a problem but I do not want to pay extra for no good reason. many thanks for any and all suggeby newbob - General
Re: 3GT Belts and Pulleys - 7 years ago
GT3 belt is just an improved version of GT2 belt - both are made for GT2 pulleys.by newbob - General
Re: RIP large Kossel and Rostock deltas - C beam Deltas are next big thing - 7 years ago
Quotenebbian Looks interesting! How do you mount linear rails to this? Is this meant for dual linear rails, or wheels? Good question - mentioned TEVO is using rollers. Personally I think linear guides are great for Delta printers so I would try to mount them by drilling through the middle profile...by newbob - Delta Machines
Re: Piezoelectric disks for Z contact detect and bed levelling - 7 years ago
See page 4 of this thread.by newbob - General
RIP large Kossel and Rostock deltas - C beam Deltas are next big thing - 7 years ago
I predict once openbuild C channel deltas become popular, Kossel and Rostock designs will be history. Example of C-beam design: TEVO little monster: Three 1000m long C channel profiles from Openbuilds are about $100 shipped (in USA). Add top and bottom plates for $60 (estimating) and you have a complete and sturdy large frame that is easy to align (as long as C channel profiles are cut squareby newbob - Delta Machines
Re: Induction heater - 7 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist What is the advantage of induction heating over resistive heating that justifies its greater cost and complexity? How does the reliability compare? I think inductive hotend would have similar advantages to electric stoves - higher efficacy and better heat control. From what I calculate all we need is 10W to melt PLA at 100mm/s speed. If heat losses were better controlby newbob - General
Re: Induction heater - 7 years ago
Quoteleadinglights I have recently made a first attempt at induction heating with mixed results. On the downside it seems to be hard to get a short thermal break with a stainless steel tube: I think that there will have to be an electrical insulator such as glass there - not so easy to make. On the upside, my nozzles have a female thread so the inductive heating goes right to the end and thermalby newbob - General
Re: Maximum speed - 7 years ago
I think many would agree that limiting factors, at this time, are hotends and extruders. Here's a slow motion video of same hotend depositing plastic at different speeds. Looking at the video I see three possibilities: o extruder unable to keep-up (unlikely in this video but possible in other circumstances) o firmware not extruding at the proper time - not taking to account delay between extruby newbob - General
Re: Induction heater - 7 years ago
QuoteDust really.... see no not changed much at all.... and from 2009 I've seen those links before posting. And yes, I think they are (with few exceptions) variation of the same theme. One of the biggest issues I see is that most nozzles are heated via threaded connection which we know is not made for high part to part contact. Threaded couplings fail to deliver enough heat to the nozzlby newbob - General