So I finally got around to shoving my filament in the warmer drawer of my oven for an hour. My prints look MUCH better! But theres now this nasty overhang where the prints start and stop.by Jc61990 - Printing
Just looked up that Alligator board, despite the non removable drivers, I really like what I see. I might go with that board if I go the 32bit ARM route.by Jc61990 - Controllers
i only print with ABS, and I think it may be that there is moisture in the filament. I changed the spool out to another color and the pitting went awayby Jc61990 - Printing
I figured the reprap wiki was outdated, that's why I came to ask live people. I looked up a couple like the smoothie board and the duet, but I am totally against integrated stepper drivers. Has anyone hooked up a ramps up to an Arduino Due?by Jc61990 - Controllers
Quotedc42 No way would I spend that much on old AVR based electronics, when you can get a 32-bit ARM based controller with a proper native USB port and SD card socket for less. The only thing going for it that I can see is that it can support 3 extruders without needing an extension board. What board would you recommend with a 32bit arm?by Jc61990 - Controllers
Currently running a genuine ramps 1.4 with A4988 drivers, looking to move to RUMBA with some DRV8825 or SilentStepStick drivers. Anyone here running a rumba? Tell me why I should get it or why I shouldn't . Thanksby Jc61990 - Controllers
maybe it can be done with ethernet cabe since it is Shielded and twisted. or you can look into using an SDRamps boardby Jc61990 - RAMPS Electronics
what size card? have you tried formatting it? Did you uncomment sdsupport in the additional features section of the config.h?by Jc61990 - RAMPS Electronics
what temperature are you printing at?by Jc61990 - Printing
Well I am a liar. I'm printing something out now, and there is an occasional snap/pop noise, but it is not very frequent.by Jc61990 - Printing
I seem to get this ugly pitting on my prints when using ABS. Ive experiemented with temperatures and speeds, anyone have any tips to get rid of this?by Jc61990 - Printing
Hello everyone. Ive got a prusa mendel iteration 2 that i built a little over a year ago now. It has served me well, ive printed out a few parts kits to make other repraps for friends and co-workers. This printer got me started into the world of 3d printing. I also have a printrbot simple xl that i love a lot more than my Prusa sadly. So ive been thinking about either selling my mendel or stripby Jc61990 - General
I think you may have an older version of marlin, try grabbing the latest from and maybe reflash using the Arduino IDE from www.arduino.cc unless you have your current build saved somewhere, there's a line in the marlin.h file that will echo all printer settings in the console or silence them if u want to. edit: i typed in both M501 and M503 into my printer and i am returned with what i expecteby Jc61990 - Printing
Quotemza1979m Am I supposed to do this while the printer is idling or while it's running or...? Doesn't matter, either or should produce some kind of output.by Jc61990 - Printing
Quotemza1979m QuoteJc61990 if you type M503 into the console on repetier what is the Value of M205, Specifically the X value. that is the Jerk, you could have it set too high. Thats one possibility that comes to my mind Ok, I'm not entirely certain what I'm supposed to do here... I typed M503 into G-Code field under the "Manual Control" tab, but absolutely nothing happens, and nothing new showsby Jc61990 - Printing
Did a quick google search for you and found this, . As for flashing, it depends on the type of file format. If its a PDE file than more than likely it can be done through the arduino IDE, if its a HEX file i suggest ATmel's flip program on windows. Im a Linux user and i find dfu_programmer to be the easiest for flashing hex files via *nix. The pde files are nice because you get to see the actualby Jc61990 - Printing
if you type M503 into the console on repetier what is the Value of M205, Specifically the X value. that is the Jerk, you could have it set too high. Thats one possibility that comes to my mindby Jc61990 - Printing
is your filament tab correct? 1.75mm vs 3.00mm filament? Make sure the nozzle diameter is correct under printer settings tab selecting Extruder 1. Also try a slower speed (30-40mm/s). Do you have a fan installed? Go to the Filament Settings tab and turn on Auto Cooling. It also could be the firmware. When i had sprinter on my Prusa Iteration 2 i only had trouble. Flashed Marlin and it was a whby Jc61990 - Printing
Solved my issue. I tried printing with another speed setting profile i have. (50mm/s vs the 60mm/s i was using). With the different settings it prints perfectly fine! So i opened two slicers side by side and compared. The only difference other than the obvious increase in speed was the Thread count. on 60mm/s i had it slicing with 4 threads, and 50 with 2 threads. Now i have a CPU capable of 8 thby Jc61990 - Printing
I haven't had any issues with slic3r in the past. this is odd because like i said before, it was slicing and printing without issue for months. Ive been using the same settings in slic3r on both my 3d printers. I even just now had my friend pick a random STL and slice it for me and send me the .gcode file. Which guess what, didn't work. It still skips that bottom layer. There's no way its my PC cby Jc61990 - Printing
Slic3r comes packaged with pronterface, are you just loading in an STL to pronterface or are you doing the slicing on a 3rd party program then loading in a .gcode file to pronterface? If it's the former, then more than likely the slicing settings are incorrect. If the latter, please take some screenshots of the slicing settings. Temps less than 230 with ABS is more than likely the problem. ABSby Jc61990 - Printing
Here are all my slic3r settings.by Jc61990 - Printing
Hello everyone, I seem to be having some issues all of a sudden with both my printers, a Printrbot Simple, and a Prusa Mendel Iteration 2. It seems that the printer is skipping the first layer entirely. It draws a perimeter then goes up a layer and starts printing at its full speed. Since it goes up a layer there is no adhesion and it just makes a mess. This is happening on both my printers, andby Jc61990 - Printing
Quotefma I'm unable to start Slic3r at all... 00:12:35.358 : Perl API version v5.14.0 of Boost::Geometry::Utils does not match v5.18.0 at /usr/share/perl/5.18/XSLoader.pm line 92. 00:12:35.358 : Compilation failed in require at /opt/RepetierHost-0.90d/Slic3r/lib/Slic3r.pm line 32. 00:12:35.358 : BEGIN failed--compilation aborted at /opt/RepetierHost-0.90d/Slic3r/lib/Slic3r.pm line 32. 00:12:3by Jc61990 - Slic3r
Hello, I am running slic3r-git on Arch Linux x64. Every time i go to add an STL file to slic3r, the whole program just closes its self. I had a problem like this on my desktop which also runs arch, but that turned out to be a missing Perl-WX dependency. I am having the problem on my laptop currently, i tried to install the perl-wx dependency but that didnt fix my problem. I ran slic3r from aby Jc61990 - Slic3r
Could be a bad STL file, I use slic3r on windows 8 pro x64 and I haven't had any issues yet. Try a different STLby Jc61990 - Slic3r
As everyone else said its most likely the PC, if its a laptop make sure you are not in the "Balanced or Power Save" scheme these will put your computer into standby after 20min, in vista or above you can click on the battery icon and then choose high performance, that will prevent you from going into standby, make sure your AC cord is plugged in. If its a desktop or even still a laptop, make sureby Jc61990 - General Mendel Topics
I actually bought a new hot end, the printrbot ubis hotend. It's working beautifully. I'll most likely just replace the body of the hotend with a peek one, for now the ubis is getting me printing. Thanks for the help guysby Jc61990 - General Mendel Topics