Sorry, I was being a bit flippant. I never do that sort of printing... but I do understand why people would, and why they might to leave them unattended. I would be unhappy to run mine inside the house if I needed to leave it to its own devices, and would probably leave it in the garage. A fire/smoke sensor over the printer would seem to be a minimum requirement.by David J - Safety & Best Practices
I take a basic approach - I only run my printer(s) when I am nearby, usually when I'm in the same room and never more than 1 room away.by David J - Safety & Best Practices
Has anyone else started to get dodgy notifications from Thingiverse in the past week or so? I have seen comments on my designs along the lines of "I am very lonely and want to meet you..." or similar (many worse). They now seem to be wide open to rogue, malicious postings. I have had to turn off all email notifications from this site. I have gone from "It's an OK site", to "It's not working veby David J - General
This may be a silly suggestion - feel free to ignore it - but I have been caught out in the past with a delta, when one or two of the toothed pulley fastening screws worked loose on the motor shafts. Not enough to fall off or stop rotating, but enough to allow a few degrees of rotation, depending on where the flat of the shaft was in relation to the pull on the drive belt. This was a headache tby David J - Printing
The back story is that I'm having significant issues with the nvidia drivers on my system, so I have temporarily swapped to the open-source nouveau windows drivers until I can resolve them. Everything is working well apart from slic3r, which refuses to run when I call it directly. When trying to start from the windows manager I get no response, so I called it from a terminal to see if I could sby David J - Slic3r
I wonder whether Makerbot realise that savvy people will take this company's lack of commitment to the website into account when considering the purchase of a new 3d printer. (probably not)by David J - General
I see that Thingiverse now has an ongoing problem with "search" - it's been broken for a couple of days... the site is even less usable now...by David J - General
It's always the last one, no matter what you're investigating...by David J - Printing
Ohmarinus, you are right in so many ways - I think that's why so many people (including myself) are frustrated by the recent changes. They took something that appeared to be working (I can't speak for behind the scenes) and, basically, they made it unusable. I do wonder if there's an element of pride and/or stubbornness in continuing with the new site layout - "we put a lot of effort into it anby David J - General
Thanks for that good info - gives me a few clues. Your links are good, except buying stuff from the USA means that I pay almost as much for shipping as for the items themselves! (I'm in the UK). That's supposing that the supplier will even ship to the UK. I can try those searches within Europe though, to see what's around. I've found the UK's HiWin distributor, but no prices showing on theirby David J - CoreXY Machines
I have a G&C CoreXY printer (Thingiverse) that is working acceptably well, apart from a small number of niggles. If I pay attention to slicing details I can produce a decent print in PLA, PLA+ and ABS. The frame is quite solid, and I am content with the bed and the Z mechanism for the time being. The biggest hurdle is that its CoreXY mechanism is a complete PITA to maintain. I have just haby David J - CoreXY Machines
It's not in a good state of health - it's a crying shame as the old website just worked. It did its job, was nicely laid out, and showed a range of featured designs and new items on the front page. I recently tried to load a customizable design but the end result was just horrible and unusable. It was really simple too, with few variables. I am now getting far better service on Cults3d, whby David J - General
This design was a 3d-printed version of an all-metal design by someone called zelogik, and it does work (mostly). Though it is worth noting that the designer of my printer released a mostly metal version a year or so later! Most parts are extremely robust, but the flaw in the design of the part in question is that it isn't fully located in one direction, although it is in all the others. Now tby David J - CoreXY Machines
I have a CoreXY printer that's a few years old (this design: ). It has worked very well, but lately I'd noticed that the carriage was getting stiff to move around, especially in the Y axis, and print quality was deteriorating. So I decided to investigate. I found that the rods that run on each side for the Y axis were no longer parallel - I believe that this was due to the belt tension pulling tby David J - CoreXY Machines
Thanks. That's what I suspected, but there's no real substitute for knowledge and experience! Now off to spend some money... Regards, Davidby David J - Laser Cutter Working Group
Well, I'm struggling to find a UK supplier - either they're 'industrial grade' and won't talk to individuals, or they just won't communicate... The places that are easy to deal with are all selling Chinese safety specs... and I'm wary. So it looks like I'll be ordering a pair from the US of A to get a certified standard - probably the 'Eagle Pair' slip-over type. Unfortunately the postage is haby David J - Laser Cutter Working Group
That's what I thought! I wasn't going to buy the Banggood green ones anyway - I value my eyes. I'm now trying to find a UK supplier that shows a decent specification for their products, with a not-too-silly price.by David J - Laser Cutter Working Group
I have just placed an order with BangGood for a 2500mW laser module, with a beam of 445nm. While this makes its way slowly from China (3 or 4 weeks, apparently) I now have time to think about safety goggles. But I'm puzzled - the safety goggles usually sold with blue lasers are green - shouldn't they be an opposite colour to blue, such as dark yellow, or red? I would have thought that greenby David J - Laser Cutter Working Group
Well, I did a load of research and reading - and got rather overwhelmed! I think a lot of posts here are for people who've made a start and are experiencing some problems, not for an absolute beginner like me - beginner to lasers anyway. Then I found this video on YouTube, which looks to be exactly what I was looking for: . He's kept it simple, but doesn't neglect the safety issues such as eyeby David J - Laser Cutter Working Group
Thanks Viktor! This is what happens when I have a clever idea in the middle of the night - I type up a question and completely forget the RepRap wiki! I will investigate...by David J - Laser Cutter Working Group
To start: I am a sensible person who understands the risks involved with high voltages, lasers and other hazardous things. In the past I have repaired TVs and other electronic devices both for a living and for pleasure, built three 3d printers and I have even built a sports car from scratch. I have a strong sense of self-preservation and have survived to the age of 68 without doing myself muchby David J - Laser Cutter Working Group
Late update: I've been using a different printer to finish a project, so I wasn't able to get to this issue until now. I can report that, after a bit of fiddling with rod length and subsequent recalibration, the dimensions are far more accurate than they were previously. There is still a small discrepancy between the X and Y axes, but that may be due to individual rod lengths. It's certainlyby David J - Delta Machines
I was wondering if it was something like rod length... I have limited knowledge of Delta mathematics... I did check the rod lengths when I assembled the printer - they all matched pretty well perfectly (I was surprised too!). Now I'll go and try out that formula.by David J - Delta Machines
I have an Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus running Marlin 1.1.9 and, on the whole, I'm very happy with it. It's easy to manage and produces some good prints for me, both in PLA and ABS (even some TPU). However, a couple of days ago I tried to print a fairly large object, and it came out undersized. First of all I thought I'd made a mistake in my OpenSCAD code, but when I recheck I couldn't see a proby David J - Delta Machines
I have continuing success using hairspray on the clean glass bed - just a light dusting does the job. However, you have to get the right spray - usually it should have a vinyl component. L'Oreal Elnett Extra Strong Hold is what's sitting next to my printers just at the moment, and that has something called vinyl decanoate in it, according to the ingredients list. Smells like a tart's boudoir whby David J - Printing
If it's a direct nozzle (no PTFE tube) then check your retraction amount - too high and you'll pull the molten end of the filament back into the cold area, where it will set and jam the nozzle. I usually set mine to 2.5 - 3.0mm.by David J - General
I normally set my bed to 50C or 60C when printing PETG. Not saying it's the answer to your problem, but it's easy to try...by David J - Printing
This was my solution to one cable problem: Thingiverse (nothing like a bit of self-publicity to make the day go by!)by David J - Reprappers
I downloaded Graphscad onto linux mint (a derivative of Ubuntu) and when I tried to run it I immediately got a core dump. I'll stick to writing code...by David J - General