Any chance of getting hold of the source file so that I can change the spacing? Assuming that it wasn't created in anything too obscure! If I can change it then I'll post the new file here, for other builders.by David J - Delta Machines
Can someone help me out with a printing problem? I'm trying to print the E3D Mount Base v2.stl file on my Prusa i3, but I'm getting strange results. The 2 ribs that fit into the 6mm groove at the top of the E3Dv6 keep coming out with a spacing of 6.2mm, which of course won't work. Assuming that this isn't a designed dimension then the only conclusion is that I have a printing problem - althougby David J - Delta Machines
Could I just clarify the assembly sequence for the top bracket bearing? Is it: M5 X 45mm bolt through the inner hole in the bracket. M5 washer Flanged bearing M5 washer (?) Flanged bearing M5 washer M5 nut Bolt continues through the other hole and connects with a T-nut. Have I got this right?by David J - Delta Machines
Thanks again, Andy. I'll say one thing - this printer really goes together easily! I've now got most of the base assembled, and just about to finish off printing the parts for the top of the frame. I can see why people buy your kits though - identifying and finding the correct components is a chore...by David J - Delta Machines
I'm making really good progress with printing the plastic parts and collecting the bits & pieces, and hope to start assembly very soon. However, I still have three quick questions: What size and type of screws should I use to fasten the rod carrier to the mini_v_wheel carriage? M3 screws into the undersized holes, or self-tapping screws? What sort of screws should I use to fasten the coveby David J - Delta Machines
Good news - thanks Doug & Andyby David J - Delta Machines
I have found some that are 5mm id, 13mm od and 4mm wide - F695 - I guess those would be OK as the toothed pulleys are approx 12mm in diameter, so a reasonable match.by David J - Delta Machines
Can anyone give me a clue where to buy the 16x5x4 flanged bearings, preferably from a UK supplier? I've tried all the usual suspects, without success - can you supply a set, Andy?by David J - Delta Machines
I have an aluminium Mk3 bed that I often use at 100C for ABS - my warm-up time is less than 10 minutes from a 12v supply. However, I have 2 layers of cork sheet (each about 2.5mm thick) held underneath the bed by a thin aluminium sheet. During warm-up I also put a piece of corrugated cardboard on top to help things along, until the print head is about to move.by David J - Reprappers
Quotegowen I've just built the current hot end. You can see some pictures of it back a few pages. Thanks Gary, I had seen those pictures (although I was suffering from 'long topic fatigue' by then). Trouble is, I was looking for details of a z-probe mechanism that wasn't there... Anyway, despite a number of wrong turns while I tried to understand how things fit together, I plan to start prinby David J - Delta Machines
Andy, That's what I thought! I guessed that it was a mechanical system - I didn't think that it made an electrical connection. Does the E3D version work in the same way? Or is that the one you're talking about! I'd really like to see a picture or two of the E3D effector fully assembled, just to get my head around it.by David J - Delta Machines
OK - a more sensible question (or seeking clarification, anyway) - am I right in thinking that the Z-probe is activated by the tip of the hot-end touching the bed, and lifting the hot-end support off a microswitch? It's just that I was looking for something complicated like the one found on a mini kossel, where a probe is set and 'put away' after use, but I couldn't see anything like that in theby David J - Delta Machines
I'm planning to start printing parts for a Cherry Pi IIIS very soon - I have just one question - what filament is recommended for the parts? PLA is easy, but I'm sure that ABS is needed for the effector. I was just wondering if there was any mechanical/physical advantage in using certain plastics for some parts. I really don't care which I use, as I can print either on my Prusa i3! D'oh! I'by David J - Delta Machines
I'm currently experiencing the same problem (Prusa i3, RAMPS 1.4) and it doesn't matter whether I'm using my Linux Mint machine or the Win 8.1 one. I have seen a couple of clues though... If I run the command dmesg | tail in linux shortly after a failure I get a message that suggests that static electricity might be the cause (I don't recall the exact wording given by dmesg). I have also hadby David J - Reprappers
Well, I think I may have found the problem - I remembered that my multimeter came with a thermocouple, so I measured the temperature on the nozzle - I had set the system for 190C but I only got about 155C. The Prusa kit I bought had a pre-wired thermistor for the hot end, but it didn't fit very well so I fitted the one that came with the E3D hot end. E3D had changed the thermistor type when movby David J - General Mendel Topics
Prusa i3 Heated bed (PCB ) with glass on top Greg Wade style extruder E3D v6 hot end, 0.4mm nozzle This is getting very frustrating! Up until yesterday my Prusa i3 would print objects in PLA with very few problems, using 185C nozzle and 60C bed temperatures. I replaced the Z-axis bearings on the X-axis assembly as I'd installed them badly and they were making a nasty noise (not any more!). Puby David J - General Mendel Topics