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Discuss here what makes your printer moving.
Re: Recycling Filament Spools - 7 years ago
You could always do this... Topsby David J - Safety & Best Practices
Re: How to fit a thermal fuse? - 7 years ago
In the end I found some very small thermal fuses that are plastic-encapsulated, small and can carry 2A (I need less than 1A). Hopefully one of them will do the job nicely if I use high-temp silicone to fix it in place. There will be cork insulation & a backing plate to keep everything safe & secure. This is turning out to be an escalating job... started by ordering the heating pad, thby David J - General
Re: Woes of ABS and part warping - 7 years ago
Have you considered trying a totally different filament material, such as PETG? More durable than PLA, less demanding to print than ABS (and less smelly). It's not the easiest stuff to use - I found that I had to print at a much slower speed to avoid stringing - and the colour choices are limited. The hot-end temp is 230 - 250 (similar to ABS) but the bed is 50C to 80C, and if you're really luckby David J - Reprappers
Re: How to fit a thermal fuse? - 7 years ago
Thanks for that - very useful info, and gives me loads to consider. I hadn't realised that the shell of the TCO was live, although it makes sense when I look at the pictures of the ones I'm considering - one lead is fixed to the case. Is it safe to trust kapton tape to insulate the TCO from 230v AC? Even if it was a good-enough insulator I'd be scared that the tape would get pierced or worn thrby David J - General
Re: How to fit a thermal fuse? - 7 years ago
It was the "how you mount it" bit that I was most interested in!by David J - General
How to fit a thermal fuse? - 7 years ago
I have just upgraded the heatbed on my printer: I've gone from an aluminium Mk3 RepRap heater at around 120W to a 200W Keenovo silicon-encased heater stuck to 5mm aluminium tooling plate. As a result the bed heating time has gone down from approaching 30 minutes to around 5 minutes. When I was tuning the heatbed the firmware warned me that in the case of thermal runaway the heater could achieveby David J - General
Re: [SALE] Duet 0.6 boards - 7 years ago
I've already asked them the same question - the answer from the man at Replikeo was: Hi David, I recommend one of this two shipping methods which are both within a week: EMS E-packet 9 usd DHL 24 usd Payment will be done through paypal to secure the transactionby David J - For Sale
Re: Trying to find a quieter 24v PSU - 7 years ago
QuoteDjDemonD Well then you do have an option. Use the Xbox psu for everything except the bed. Get a 200w 24v psu for the bed these are usually fanless. It's a thought - but the XBox psu is 12v, and everything in my machine is 24v... it's an avenue worth exploring though. Of course, I could abandon the 24v bed heater and go to a 240v mains-powered one via an SSR, allowing me to use a much smalby David J - General
Re: Trying to find a quieter 24v PSU - 7 years ago
QuoteDjDemonD If you're using mains/line for the bed a laptop style fanless psu is plenty for hotends/fans/motors 120w should do it 150w if you want a little headroom. I've two machines with laptop type PSUs for everything except the bed and they function very well. On my kossel Xl I printed a top cover for the psu with a lot of holes in it as it's sits in the electronics compartment under the beby David J - General
Re: Trying to find a quieter 24v PSU - 7 years ago
I've been reasonably successful with a couple of the LED power supplies, but I never take them to their limit - they usually run way below their max loading. The 12v one on my Prusa i3 has been re-cased with an 8" computer case fan (and that IS noisy!) and runs at about 12A. The 24v one is currently running at about 10A or so. In both cases their fans run continuously - maybe that's why they'veby David J - General
Trying to find a quieter 24v PSU - 7 years ago
I have managed to get the mechanism of my CoreXY printer nice and quiet through the use of 0.9 stepper motors and so on, but this has emphasised the noise that my 24v PSU makes - it's really annoying. The PSU is the usual Chinese LED type, 24v at 15A, and it works really well apart from the fan noise. Are there any reasonably priced PSUs available with that sort of rating, that don't make so muby David J - General
Re: Help again - 7 years ago
Looks like too much plastic is being pushed out. Have you calibrated the extruder?by David J - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: DWC not updating - uploaded 1.19 and it still shows version 1.11 after refreshing page? - 7 years ago
Mine has always shown the correct version after an update. You could try the "write it directly to the SD card" option shown in the documentation. I presume that you've seen the documentation - HEREby David J - Duet
Re: Which Material for CoreXY parts - 7 years ago
The zelogik design has already been translated into plastic - the G&C printer More info here: This is what I've built, with only a few modifications. It's currently sitting about 100mm from my left elbow as I type, as I've been printing some parts today! The designer has also published a more sturdy version using linear slides, but that's a lot more expensive to build.by David J - General
Re: Is there a problem with PLA filament supplies in the UK? - 7 years ago
Ha! Thread reactivation! As it happens, HobbyKing started to re-stock PLA & ABS filament a few weeks after my original post, so my problem has gone away.by David J - General
Re: Problems with autotuning hot end after upgrade to 1.19 - 7 years ago
I visit too many forums (fora?) as it is! But I will probably post this over there shortly...by David J - Duet
Problems with autotuning hot end after upgrade to 1.19 - 7 years ago
Setup: Duet 0.6 board that was running successfully on v1.17e. E3D v6 hot end (genuine!) Problem: Upgraded to 1.19 this morning, worked through the release notes and everything seems good - apart from when I try to autotune the hot end. It keeps coming back with the dreaded "Auto tune cancelled because target temperature was not reached". The command I used was M303 H1 S250 I get the error asby David J - Duet
Re: Release notes for v1.19? - 7 years ago
Right - I seem to have upgraded! Not entirely without problems - I can't get autotune to work properly on the hot end, but I'll deal with that in a new topic.by David J - Duet
Re: Release notes for v1.19? - 7 years ago
Excellent! Many thanks. I missed that completely. Looks like many things have been changed and fixed since my version, so I'll have to do some studying before I make the jump.by David J - Duet
Release notes for v1.19? {NOW SORTED] - 7 years ago
David, I may have missed them (I've been away) but now I can't find any release notes for version 1.19 - I've looked on this forum, and on the Duet3D website, but have failed miserably. All I want to do is check what's included, whether there is any new stuff that would make it worth upgrading my machine (which is working nicely at the moment on 1.17) and to see if there are any gotchas in theby David J - Duet
Re: Unable to run Repetier-Host - 7 years ago
The Linux version works well for me... (Linux Mint v18.2, 64-bit)by David J - Repetier
Re: Heated print bed unable to reach desired temparature - 7 years ago
The silicone-covered cable used in electric RC models is very suitable for this job - it's flexible, the insulation will withstand the elevated temperatures, and its current-carrying capacity is high. It's designed for electric motors that run at tens of Amps, so it's more than capable of supplying the heatbed. Have you tried putting insulation under the print bed? I have a PCB heater on bothby David J - Reprappers
Re: Scared about my Anet a8 order - 7 years ago
QuoteDancer Buy reliable parts, do a clean setup, install a smoke detector, place a fire extinguisher where you can grab it. If you are really worried - do not leave it allone. And if you even can't trust it this way: Just don't buy a 3D-Printer. Good advice - I used a generous-sized power supply (not from a PC), used the correct gauge wire for the high-current parts, and kept it as neat as posby David J - General
Re: Scared about my Anet a8 order - 7 years ago
Quotenewbob Consider stuffing power supply and board into a metal enclosure to stop potential fire from spreading: Not sure if you're serious or not - but unless you let lots of air into the enclosure it's going to overheat and burn anyway!by David J - General
Pause in G-code for Marlin? - 7 years ago
When I use my CoreXY printer with a Duet board I insert the command M226 into the gcode in the appropriate place - the pause.g macro runs and the print head is moved aside so that I can change the filament (e.g. for a colour change). This works well. However, when I try to do the same on my RAMPS-powered Prusa i3 this command doesn't work - according to the RepRapWiki gcode page, this won't worby David J - General
Re: OpenScad running in GPU ? - 7 years ago
Quoteo_lampe I'd be more interested, if OpenScad would benefit from multicore CPU's? I've seen a big leap forward with Slic3er Prusa edition taking advantage of multithreading, so why not OpenScad? I wish it could - my Linux box has an 8-core processor, but OpenSCAD only uses one when working.by David J - OpenSCAD
Re: Recommendations for a first build? - 7 years ago
My usual recommendation for a first-time printer builder is the Prusa i3, especially the extra-rigid versions made of steel. The original design using threaded rod is pretty good, especially if you add suitable bracing. The reason I say this is that it's an amazingly easy machine to understand, which means that it's easy to locate and fix problems. Delta and CoreXY machines are not so easy, evby David J - Reprappers
Re: Changing to mains-powered heatbeds - 7 years ago
That was my concern - I would want some serious insulation between me and mains voltage, especially on something I'd be touching frequently.by David J - General
Re: Changing to mains-powered heatbeds - 7 years ago
Quoteanimoose Have you considered this: ? It's a PCB heater rather than an Al plate, but otherwise looks good. I have bought one, but have yet to set it up. That looks nice! It would be an exact replacement for my existing heater plate, and I see that it has a thermal fuse built-in - nice. I'm a bit nervous about those exposed connections though - I like my mains wiring and connections to be wby David J - General