My setup is as follows: CoreXY printer. Glass bed on top of a Mk3 PCB heater, with black card under the glass. DC42's IR Z-probe Duet 0.6 Latest firmware and web code (1.17a + matching web code) When I was running under 1.14 firmware I very rarely had to change the Z offset for the IR probe - set it once and it was good for ages, even though I often move my printer across the room when I've finby David J - Duet
I have a sheet of black card under the glass on the beds of both my printers - seems to work OK.by David J - Duet
No 'red arrows' on my screen - there's the 3-colour X-Y-Z arrows, but they're just floating around 'off the bed'. I suppose that they indicate the origin, but I'm only guessing.by David J - Duet
Thanks.by David J - Duet
The height map could do with one enhancement - something to indicate where the X0-Y0 origin point is on the image.by David J - Duet
Quotedc42 Yes, that sounds very reasonable. You could set up a macro that heats to operating temperature and then runs G29 S0 to probe and store the height map. Then in your slicer start gcode, include G29 S1. . Just one more question (maybe 2): Do I still need to run G32 in the startup gcode if I'm using mesh bed compensation, or is that replaced by the G29 process?by David J - Duet
Talking about the bed.g file - here's mine: ; Auto calibration routine M561 ; clear any existing bed transform ;G28 ; home G30 P0 X20 Y20 Z-99999 ; front left G30 P1 X20 Y180 Z-99999 ; back left G30 P2 X180 Y180 Z-99999 ; back right G30 P3 X180 Y20 Z-99999 ; front right G30 P4 X100 Y100 Z-99999 S0 ; centre, and calibrate G1 X10 Y10 Z20 ; go to the front left side, raise &aby David J - Duet
David, I had a look through the page on the wiki - and got confused! It's not clear to me what gets run as a one-off command, and which should be written in one or more of the /SYS config files. I guess I'm looking for more of a hand-holding guide... ...and it's probably me, rather than your instructions! Cheers, David UPDATE: I've had a go, and it's not quite as obscure as I thought. Itby David J - Duet
The Duet boards are also built to professional standards, unlike most RAMPS boards on the market (unless you buy from that Spanish supplier who makes RAMPS boards properly). Decent PCB, components, connector blocks, etc. make it a 'fit and forget' option as far as the physical aspects are concerned.by David J - Duet
I've only just started with the Titan extruder - it's well made, small and very powerful. It's also easy to use and keep clean as the serrated part that drives the filament is easy to get at from the side of the case. You can also slot an E3D v6 hot end straight in - but not on this printer! I have about 40 - 50mm of bowden tube between the extruder on the top of the X-carriage and the hot endby David J - CoreXY Machines
Just to round off my story about the noise, replacing the LM8UU bearings, etc. - I have just done a test print after fitting an E3D Titan extruder & motor directly onto the X carriage. No nasty noises, even though I was printing at 120mm/s. This wasn't an ideal speed for printing though, as there were signs of oscillations on the corners, leading to ripples along the flat side. I'll probablby David J - CoreXY Machines
What's the problem with 4 wires? If it's an issue with space, you could take each pair of thin wires, cut them about 20 - 30mm and solder both to a thicker wire - you'd then have 2 thicker wires to put through the printer.by David J - Duet
When I clog my E3D nozzle with PLA, I unscrew it, wind a bit of bare wire around it to form a handle, hold it nozzle hole upwards then heat it up a bit with a blowtorch - not red hot, just very warm. After a few seconds there'll be a little bit of flame and the PLA will drop out. An enthusiastic shake will help, but watch out as the metal will be hot enough to burn for quite a while, and I'm gueby David J - Reprappers
I tried bronze bushes, and found them to be harder to set up than IGUS ones! You have to get the pair of bushes EXACTLY lined up, otherwise they will jam. Perhaps a pair of very short bushes - perhaps just 2 or 3mm long spaced well apart - would do the trick, as they probably would mind being slightly out of line (but I'm only guessing). If you have to go with plastic bearing supports then I gby David J - CoreXY Machines
If you go to the Zelogik link I posted above and download the PDF file containing the drawings you'll find all you need. The part I used is called "guideY", but I added extra fixing holes as plastic isn't as rigid as 3mm aluminium sheet. I took a chance and bought 20mm square aluminium bar from an eBay supplier. It turned out to be nice and straight, with good 90-degree angles and flat sides,by David J - CoreXY Machines
Yes - almost all of the horrible noise has gone - if you remember, I had complained that it sounded like there was a panel vibrating - but now all I can hear are the motors and the fans. I must do something about the PSU fan... I had to experiment with those clamps for the 8mm rods before I got it right; in the end, I cut off almost all of the design to leave just the clamping bit, and printedby David J - CoreXY Machines
QuotefilipeCampos Well.. for me this printer is finished, need to start tinking about the next one.. Filipe, you have far too much time and money! Nice print though...by David J - CoreXY Machines
I have just replaced the LM8UU bearings on my CoreXY printer with the IGUS equivalents, and they're working extremely well - the horrible buzz I used to get from the cheap Chinese LM8UU's has now gone completely. However - and it's a big 'however' - the IGUS bearing manufacturers have given a very high technical requirement for the holes where their bearings will fit. The tolerances around theby David J - General
I had posted elsewhere that I was was having a lot of problems with noise when printing - a continual buzzing that sounded like something was vibrating badly. Previously I'd bought some Igus bearings to replace the cheap Chinese LM8UU linear bearings but was unable to make them work, as the plastic tubes formed in the X and Y carriages distorted the Igus bearings too badly. This is not a faultby David J - CoreXY Machines
The little 40x40 and 30x30 fans we use on our printers usually come pre-wired with a little connector. It looks like a small Molex, but I can't identify it exactly. Can anyone tell me it's correct name and model? The reason for asking is that I want to be able to replace fans without having to cut off the original connector and replace it with something I've actually got in my spares box...by David J - General
Well, I've got rid of most of the objectionable noise (the buzzes and other horrible sounds). I have replaced all of the bearings in the X and Y axes with Igus equivalents. This wasn't a direct swap - in fact it turned out to be quite a mammoth task. I won't go into details here - once I've got a few pictures organised I'll tell all in the G&C Printer topic. (The only remaining problem isby David J - CoreXY Machines
I agree - Thingiverse just works for me - nothing more to say, really. It's just that a while ago some really radical designs were appearing regularly, but lately it's been quiet. Maybe it's just a quiet phase...by David J - General
I am a big Thingiverse user and have several designs on there, but I've noticed that it doesn't seem to be "the place to go to" any more. I know that they were accused of stealing/appropriating designs a while ago, but they seemed to have addressed that issue - but the number and quality of new designs seems to have tapered off lately. I have looked at YouMagine, but disliked the user interfaceby David J - General
Already on 24v. Thanks for the info - good to know that it's a straight swap with just a little reconfiguration.by David J - Duet
This is a trivial question, and I think I know the answers, but I'd like some reassurance/guidance... I am about to change the X-Y motors on my CoreXY printer from 1.8 degree ones to 0.9 degree ones, and I know I'll have to change the config.g file. First, I presume that the steps-per-millimetre value will have to be doubled for those motors. I'm not sure what else will need to be changed - theby David J - Duet
Many thanks! I suspected that the thickness wasn't critical, but I wanted to check. Good point about the countersunk holes... I have actually built the G&C CoreXY designed by Filipe Campos (based on your design, but in plastic) but now I'm thinking of changing parts over to aluminium, mostly so that I can fit Igus bearings. It's very hard to make holes with the correct dimensions for thoseby David J - CoreXY Machines
Zelogik, I know that this is a bit late in the thread - but in the original drawings for the aluminium parts, you don't give the thickness for the aluminium plates. I would estimate that they are about 2mm thick, but it would be nice to know exactly! Many thanks, Davidby David J - CoreXY Machines
Hi Filipe, First of all, I must say that the reason I didn't post this in the G&C topic is that I thought it was a general problem, rather than a design one - it could just as easily been a problem with my Duet's configuration. I wanted to get a general response, instead of a printer-specific one. It's not a criticism of your design! Do you have a reference for the igus bearings with a sby David J - CoreXY Machines
I'm starting to think that it's the cheap bearings in the carriage... the extra mass of the extruder and its motor was a step too far, maybe. I have tried Igus bearings, but they were getting deformed by the printed components - the hole they fit in has to be precisely dimensioned, and getting a perfectly round hole with the correct dimensions is not easy at our level of 3D printing, no matter hby David J - CoreXY Machines