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Discuss here what makes your printer moving.
Re: Pronterface connection failture - 11 years ago
What version of MAC OSX are you using? I use a MAC as well - version 10.6 - and I can connect via my MAC directly without having to use Parallels software. No drivers needed to be downloaded either. As Olaf suggests - make sure you have the right baud rate selected. There's a decent video here to follow: I believe your Marlin firmware baud rate needs to match what you set in Pronterface (itby psneddon - General
Re: First print! - 11 years ago
I tried printing a cube and got this: The left side and front side of the "cube" looked a mess and the cube was very small! I was going to use CURA and try again, but when manually moving the bed in the x and y directions the maximum it would move was half way - to the center of the bed. Went back to Pronterface and the same thing - would only go as far as the center of the bed. I checkedby psneddon - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Bad prints, square and circles not right - 11 years ago
I just read this thread as well: May be the answer to the flat spot you're asking about. Good luck working it out.by psneddon - Printing
Re: Bad prints, square and circles not right - 11 years ago
QuoteColin08 I know the Steps/unit is OK as they are exactly the same hardware on both axis, Just because it's the same hardware on both axis', you must calculate the proper steps for each axis. This guide here is recommended:by psneddon - Printing
Re: Please help, PLA not sticking - 11 years ago
I also started out trying to print at 200+ degrees and have since been printing at 185C and my bed at 72C. I use elmer's purple glue on the glass and it works great! I didn't want to use hairspray because of the possibility of overspray on the motors and stuff. I wait for the bed and part to cool down and then give it a whack from the side with a medium weighted object - like the handle of aby psneddon - General
Re: The BASICS for 1st Time - HELP - 11 years ago
I was looking at trying CURA, since it seemed to have a bed leveling routine, instead of Pronterface. Well, I couldn't get the printer to connect to CURA to try the bed leveling, so I went back to Pronterface. My print head didn't want to go any further than +100 in the X direction and +100 in the Y direction!! I figured, maybe CURA reset the bed size parameters, so I reloaded my Arduino settingby psneddon - Printing
Re: The BASICS for 1st Time - HELP - 11 years ago
Quotewaitaki This is what I suggest.... Remove the filament from the extruder completely so you are left with a nice clean non-oozing nozzle. Level the bed all round. (you should not need to keep doing this unless you have build problems - mine was set 2 or 3 years ago and is still in spec). Heat the bed to 60C Switch on the hotend - 150C should be enough for setting up. Adjust the nozzle gap usiby psneddon - Printing
Re: First print! - 11 years ago
WOW! That looks GREAT! Was this your FIRST print? I started building my I3 Rework back in the end of December ( a piece at a time ) and have been reading and trying to absorb everything I can as well. My first test calibration prints (that actually printed and stuck to the bed) ended up looking like this: This at 200C This at 205C I was looking at maybe trying Cura - I'm using Pronterface rby psneddon - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: The BASICS for 1st Time - HELP - 11 years ago
First off, Elmer's purple glue stick works GREAT! My first prints were done at 200C and 205C with a print bed temp. of 72C. I took a couple of screen shots of my general Slicer settings. I also noticed that my printer isn't laying down a perimeter line or brim before it starts printing. Here are some of my other Slicer settings. At this point I am not interested in producing fast prby psneddon - Printing
Re: The BASICS for 1st Time - HELP - 11 years ago
Well, I finally got the PLA to stick to the heated bed! Now I have to figure out how to get a decent print. I tried printing the .5mm thin wall calibration test print with limited success, as you can see from the pictures. My first test print was at 200C: I increased the temperature to 205C and this was the result: Before I go any further, opinions/advice would be greatly appreciated anby psneddon - Printing
Re: The BASICS for 1st Time - HELP - 11 years ago
I appreciate the info. I usually don't have much time during the work week to tinker with the printer. I'll see if I can get it printing this week-end and try to post some pictures as well of either my successor failure.by psneddon - Printing
Re: Print Bed Glass - Avoid Bull Clips - 11 years ago
I use the small binder clips, but the head was hitting one of the clips when I would HOME the bed. My HOME position is in the right rear corner of the print bed, so the right rear clip was getting knocked about. My axis homes in the X direction first, the Y direction second and the Z direction last. I believe I read somewhere in one of the threads that you can set your HOME movements to beginby psneddon - Printing
Re: The BASICS for 1st Time - HELP - 11 years ago
Thanks for the reply. Do I need to remove my PLA from the extruder altogether after it heats up so I can level the bed? Also, does the extruder fan have to point slightly down toward the PLA as it's printing, or just at the plastic (ABS) portion of the hot end (which is how I had it set when I tried printing my test piece)?by psneddon - Printing
The BASICS for 1st Time - HELP - 11 years ago
Hello All. I don't know if this subject has been covered before or not. I've done a lot of reading, skimming and searching, but I can't find the answer(s) I'm looking for. I tried to do a basic thin wall test print with my completed I3 Rework, but the PLA was not sticking to the heated bed (heat bed + borosilicate glass). I didn't use hairspray, or glue stick or anything - just cleaned the glasby psneddon - Printing
Re: Prusa I3 Rework Y-Min Endstop - 11 years ago
OLAF, You're right. I realized that last night and was going to chop off the bottom leg of the 'E' it off to make an 'F', but my computer started acting up a bit and I wanted to get some COD time in before it got any later. LOL Thank you for letting me know my orientation is right. Here are some diagrams for the letter 'F'. The first is when you're printing with your HOME position (0,0) at theby psneddon - Prusa i3 and variants
Prusa I3 Rework Y-Min Endstop - 11 years ago
First of all, hats off to BLUE ICE for all the help and advice! This is my first 3d printer build and it's been (and still is) quite a ride. There's lots of information to wade through and a lot of the threads tend to stray off of the main topic, but that's the way it goes. I am one of the few people who built their I3 Rework printer with the Y-Min limit switch in the front of the printer. My eby psneddon - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
QuoteAno Quotelurch68b Thanks guys, my y end stop is in back. Why did you guys put it int he front? Well... Don't know =) The pictures I saw had it on the front. Really doesn't matter though. You just need to have the same physical and software configuration. Should be this lines in marlin: // ENDSTOP SETTINGS: // Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN #define X_HOME_DIR -1 #defiby psneddon - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: help me config - 11 years ago
I'm using Mac Pronterface and according to the video my HOME position is correct. I guess I'll find out when I get around to doing my first real print. If it comes out backwards I guess I'll know for sure. I finished leveling the bed and managed to calibrate my extruder. I initially had a problem with the extruder - it would just chatter and not push any PLA through. I loosened up the tension onby psneddon - General
Re: help me config - 11 years ago
Finally getting around to finishing my I3 Rework and am having trouble with conflicting (?) info regarding the HOME position of the bed. I was following the steps here: According to these instructions the HOME position is at the right rear corner of the print bed (as you look at it from the front). My end stops are X-Max on right side of frame, Y-Min at front of frame and Z-Min on lower left sby psneddon - General
Re: Prusa I3 Z motors not moving - 11 years ago
Thanks for the update. I'm glad you found the problem with the connectors. One problem solved.by psneddon - Reprappers
Re: After the Printer Stops? - 11 years ago
So it sounds like you just leave the filament in the extruder and let it cool down? I wasn't sure if that was the standard procedure. I am hoping to get around to my first calibration tests and print soon and wanted to check before I did something wrong and plugged up my hot end. Thanks for the info.by psneddon - General
After the Printer Stops? - 11 years ago
I've been looking for information on what to do after your print has finished printing - other than removing it from the print bed. A lot of videos and information on building a 3d printer and showing the printer in action, but I was wondering about what the proper procedure is for when you're done printing. Do you leave the filament in the extruder? Do you remove the filament after printing? Ifby psneddon - General
Re: Prusa I3 Z motors not moving - 11 years ago
If you find out what the problem was, please post your solution. Thanks.by psneddon - Reprappers
Re: Prusa I3 Z motors not moving - 11 years ago
If each of your motors had worked when plugged into the X or Y axis connectors on the Ramps board I would have suspected that one of them was connected wrong/backwards and that they were fighting each other to turn. However, since you stated: "the Z motors arent moving properly at all. I put the Z motor where the X one is connected to and it still didnt move (Even though X moves when its connectby psneddon - Reprappers
Re: Prusa I3 Z motors not moving - 11 years ago
You stated that you checked each motor by connecting them to the X axis connector on the Ramps board and it still wouldn't turn? I assume you were using Pronterface to turn the X-axis motor with the Z-axis motor connected to the X-axis connector on the Ramps board. Are you sure you have the wiring right on the Z axis motors? That's where I would start if the motors won't turn when hooked up to aby psneddon - Reprappers
Re: new to 3d printin looking to dive in - 11 years ago
Looks pretty good to me. Just make sure the thermistor that comes with the heated bed is in the Marlin list of compatible thermistors. The stepper motors and hot end will be a big portion of the cost as well. That'll run another $120 or so for a decent hot end and motors. I pieced mine together from multiple eBay buys and I'm about to wrap mine up hopefully within the next week or so. I wasn'tby psneddon - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Prusa i3 multi extruder - 11 years ago
As a newbie myself, I would think the number one issue would be how to control 4 extruders. Everyone seems to be using the RAMPS 1.4 board which only has the option for two extruders - not four. Not to mention rewriting/modifying the Marlin software. I also dont't know if any of the sloicer programs out there can accomodate 4 different colors. Again, I'm just a newbie myself. I'm sure someone wby psneddon - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Re: Marlin - adjusting LCD beeper/buzzer volume/tone - 11 years ago
Hello. Try looking at this video. I believe it covers setting the tone and duration of the buzzer.by psneddon - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
Quotemr.sneezy Quotepsneddon Blue Ice Thanks again. I'll check mine over once I receive it in the mail. I received my MK2B heated bed and hooked up the wires to it and measured the resistance and I'm getting 2.6 ohms. Most of the information I've read about this heated bed states that the resistance should be 1.2 to 1.3 ohms. Is this correct? I have the negative lead hooked to pad #1 and the pby psneddon - Prusa i3 and variants