Quotegambrose MKSA you described a "soft iron housing plus a soft iron cup". I understand that to be something like the sketch I uploaded with this post. I found that to be of benefit the housing needed to extend to be very close to the ball to be beneficial. My profile I uploaded with my first post was intended as an alternative based on counter sunk magnets. Indeed, it is what I meant, justby MKSA - Delta Machines
Strange, I was expecting the Remote Control pin to be for a toggle switch to turn the PS on and off. To require an other 5V power supply to turn it on, may be but not very practical here.by MKSA - Mechanics
How about putting a wire or a push button (switch NC) between pin RC and ground (V-) ?by MKSA - Mechanics
Quoteetfrench Igus filament is rather expensive. I wonder if one of their regular bushings could be repurposed by heating under pressure? Igus filament is worth it. All my linear bearings, lead screw nuts, even some ball bearings, fancy bearings for various profiles, flats to take care of thermal expansion instead of PTFE etc... are made with Igus. No play, no noise. They can be made to be inteby MKSA - General
Can be made with Igus filament, heat formed to get a perfect fit. In use for 2years now.by MKSA - General
I have never seen a ceramic printer. Acrylic, steel, aluminum but ceramic ? Ceramic can be tough, some can be machined, can work at high temp etc.... Anyway, first; how about posting this request in the correct place then eventually explain exactly what it is all about ?by MKSA - General
Quotegambrose I have been playing around with FEMM to try and compare different rod magnet designs. I am no expert but if I understand the results I have been seeing when playing around with different designs then hercek is right in that it can be very hard to get any magnetic flux though the ball when using a iron cup and housing. The majority of the flux will travel though the cup to the edgeby MKSA - Delta Machines
Quotehercek QuoteMKSAA soft iron housing plus a soft iron cup. Soft iron housing looks like the best idea. This should completely close the magnetic circuit. It should hold pretty well. I would be a bit careful with the soft iron cup part if the housing is already present. The reason is so that the magnetic circuit is not shorted through the cup to the housing (without entering the ball). The goaby MKSA - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 I think the ideal would be to use a soft iron pole piece with one end flat for the magnet and the other end concave hemispherical to match the ball stud, with a thin and uniform PTFE coating on either the pole piece or the ball stud. But I don't know how to manufacture that. Alternatively the pole piece could be concave conical instead of hemispherical. In fact should be made like theby MKSA - Delta Machines
Do a search, almost everyone thought about it, some tried and used it with mixed successes although most failed before timing belts became the norm.by MKSA - General
Their approach is indeed one of the best. Personally I was thinking to use the same approach used in cast bullet molds like here: as it could be good enough but far less costly.by MKSA - General
BREAKING NEWS ! 3D printer hobbyist found dead, impaled on a prototype that collapsed while he was leaning on it for rigidity evaluation.by MKSA - Mechanics
Should be looked at indeed. One ball shared by two arm sets (of two arms) like in this SpiderBot, OK but one ball shared by the two arms of one set is not OK.by MKSA - Delta Machines
QuoteDjDemonD Possibly, I've bought "kevlar reinforced" belts and they were just fibreglass and being oversold. But worth a shot. How did you see it was fiberglass ?by MKSA - General
QuoteCyber Akuma UPDATE: I got a reply back from the person I bought the Heater Cartridge from, they said that the wire is 28 AWG. That's a LOT smaller than I was expecting, any suggestions what kind of crimps or other connectors I can use for such a wire? What size is that 28 AWG ??? Even worse than the fractional inch Wire diam is in tenth of mm, so easy to measure. Note for main power, itby MKSA - Prusa i3 and variants
Spam ? I think he is just not very smart but excessively polite and begging to get help. Just ask the chauffeur to accelerateby MKSA - General
QuoteMechaBits QuoteMKSA What did you find so far ? How about publishing it ? From the Man that Publishes Nowt... You just posted info that this guy could and should have found by himself.by MKSA - General
Quoteo_lampe QuoteMKSA Back to standard ball joint in fact. An why Delrin ? What about Igus ? You think about Traxxas rod ends or the like? With springs between the rods to eliminate slop? I meant ballstuds and dished rods, but without magnets. The rods are held in place by a spring/elastic rope running // to the rods from carrier to effector. The dished part could be as simple as the chamferedby MKSA - Delta Machines
Quoteklcjr89 QuoteTrakyan This may be a stupid idea, but instead of cutting slots, has anyone considered laminating thin sheets of steel/iron and some other material into a stack, then taking a slice of that? As long as your sheet material is the right thickness, and to relatively good tolerance it should give you a strip with alternating magnetic and non magnetic surfaces. Again, could be a stupby MKSA - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Besides, there are plenty of forum, here too, youtube etc... explaining the how and why.. Just that people are too lazy to search by themselves.by MKSA - General
What did you find so far ? How about publishing it ?by MKSA - General
Quotedc42 PCB header pins are only good up to about 2A, so no good for the hot end heater if you are using 12V power. It's a good idea to separate the low voltage (e.g. temperature sensor, Z probe) and higher voltage (heaters and fans) so that you are less likely to mix them up. On the Smart Effector we use a 6-pin Molex Microfit connector for the fans and heaters, and an 8-pin Molex KK for theby MKSA - Delta Machines
Quoteo_lampe Why not skip the magnet idea and use Delrin balls and springs_only? The weight of the balls&magnets bothered me anyway. Delrin balls are available as replacement for steel ball bearings. But I haven't seen them with a thread inside, so a drill jig is required. If there's enough interest in this subject, we better start a new thread. Back to standard ball joint in fact. An why Deby MKSA - Delta Machines
Quotegambrose ... MKSA, what did you mean by "Here e=1mm should be enough"? I meant in fact less or equal to 1mm. No need for ticker. Now, you have really to press hard, in a vise, ball better be hardened steel (from a ball bearing). Note earlier on, may be not in this thread, I suggested a thin sheet of PTFE, the kind with one side with glue cut with a punch. Now, this is Ok unless the diam isby MKSA - Delta Machines
Thanks. Just a bit surprised they didn't put it but defined a second hot end (commented out) plus some confusion regarding the autotune PID command where E0 is the hot end and E1 the bed. I guess it is due to history as initially there was just one hot end and a bed. Just took the hint and listen to this great song "I was five and he was six We rode on horses made of sticks ...Bang Bang" Nancby MKSA - Smoothie
I don't see the Bed PID defined in the config.txt Can I create these entries for the bed T control module ? temperature_control.bed.p_factor 198.9 # P ( proportional ) factor temperature_control.bed.i_factor 17.719 # I ( integral ) factor temperature_control.bed.d_factor 558 # D ( derivative ) factor PS: I don't want to use the commby MKSA - Smoothie
Quoteklcjr89 QuoteMKSA One important thing, it has to be soft iron and tool steel is not suitable and very hard to machine ! O1 is easy to work with since it comes unhardened (annealed) with high speed steel tooling. It only becomes much hard after you oil harden it. Once again, these rails have to be soft iron ! Like in transformers, motors, steppers etc..... !!!! I never imagined you wouldby MKSA - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Funny, I proposed to use these linear motor instead of motor climbing on leadscrews to tease the OP. One important thing, it has to be soft iron and tool steel is not suitable and very hard to machine ! And the accuracy that can be achieved exceed what is need in 3D printers (better than 10 micron). This technology has been used for decades. Same principle as DC42 explained. These are just fby MKSA - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Curious to see how this flexes when the belt is tensioned to specified 26 N .by MKSA - General
QuoteSJames Quoteorbitalair ABS is the same, my mailbox clasp already came apart after about 6 months. UV really degrades plastic. 400yrs poster is a useful idiot. Well, I am talking about complete decomposition in enviroment and it takes hundreds of years... You are right, it may be seriously damaged after only few months - but even after decades, there are small plastics pieces remaining. Anby MKSA - General