The vcc/5v jumper only livens up the +5 pin in the centre of the servo pins. I would check for a short from the centre pin to the ground pin of the servo connectors. (gnd is edge most pins) also the servos go on the 3 pins... gnd,+5 and a signal pin. not across (Ive seen this done!)by Dust - RAMPS Electronics
It must be PLA, which doesn’t suffer from warping anything like ABS does And its probably in a climate controlled roomby Dust - Reprappers
Perfectly flat == machined == expensive this is why most of us print on glass, its very flat and very cheap.by Dust - General
has everyone forgotten how to use google or something? sheeeeh.... I like the idea... Its a prusa 2 in a square frameby Dust - Reprappers
the above implies there was an issue with larger rom back 2010, but was fixed. Uew this latest version, apparently the one with ardueno prier to v1 is quite old.by Dust - Controllers
What you describe is certainly possible if they have left the JTAG system enabled. Yes you can set the fuses without uploading a new bootloader. Just use the command line tool avrdude Cant help with the rest, I use a real programmerby Dust - Controllers
ramps 1.3 is threw hole components, vs 1.4 which is surface mount. Other than that they are the same what is the resistance of your Cartridge Heater ? I'm wondering if you got a 24v Cartridge Heater As people have melted aluminium with heater cartage’s 600c Another option is that you have limited the power in firmware These should both be 255. A further option is you have a half deby Dust - Reprappers
open up pins.h in the editor of choice. Find this on line 444 if your using the same version currently: #define X_MIN_PIN 3 #define X_MAX_PIN 2 make it: #define X_MIN_PIN 2 #define X_MAX_PIN 3 Save, load into Arduino, compile and upload. Move X min endstop onto X max endstop pins (next pins over, next to Y min endstop) Test with m119, cross fingers.by Dust - Reprappers
where did Z come from? We where talking about X and possibly Y... with X on it...by Dust - Reprappers
Please use pastebin.com or something like that for the long config files. putting them here just makes people stop reading.by Dust - Reprappers
Unplug your X endstop form the board, stick a ohm meter in the endstop plug touching the metal pins inside the plastic case. .It should show short, and change to open when the switch is depressed. If this works the switch and cables is fine, if not you need to check your wires and switch. It it seems fine, plug it into the y MIN position, and test with m119 while pressing and releasing the X enby Dust - Reprappers
You cant put a ramps on a xmega, Ramps is designed for 5v, xmega is 3.3volt This is why ramps-fd was developed, for the 3.3v Due.by Dust - Controllers
Problem 1 and 2 are the same End stop Switches should be wired normally closed. Ie using C and NC pins. At the ramps end It should be on S and - Pins They read open when not triggered and Triggered when they are. Do the following. Make sure no end stops are physically triggered, give a m119, I suspect this prints Triggered on x,y and Z now hold down an endstop, and give a m119, if it changby Dust - Reprappers
Then your e steps/mm are bound to be very wrong take a look atby Dust - General
And what are your Z threads? Ie what sort of machine. As 2560 steps/mm is not much use unless it matches you hardware, steppers and micro stepping. (This would be correct for M8 thread, 1.8 steppers running 1/16th micro stepping) Also your E steps/mm did you calibrate that?by Dust - General
Yes your correct on both counts. Ramps boards need to have 35v caps to work at 24v. (some have 16v), secondly the 12v 11amp polyfuse isn’t rated for 24v, you need to replace that (most are using car fuses) And yes the standard Mega board can't take more that 12v. You can remove d1 from the ramps and power the Mega separately, or the much simpler option is get a Taurino Power (must be the powerby Dust - General
Are your Z steps/mm correct? Are your E steps/mm correct? Is you layer height under 80% of your nozzle diameter? Is your hot end hot enough so that the layers bond?by Dust - General
Voltage on steppers isnt really a useful number on modern controllers... (unless it to high) You will be able to run your 17HS3001-20 on 24 volt without issues In fact the product page even says soby Dust - General
This is very cool! You should use GT2 belts, current reprap uses them as they are designed for linear motion, less backlash. T2.5 as you say are timing beltsby Dust - Look what I made!
I'm always around, more or less.... Your printer is somewhat backwards from 'normal', but hey if it works for you. Min Endstops should be a X Left, Y platform back and Z Down position. But thats just the standard way, you can do it in non standard ways, homing to max position etc, but that does make it more complicated. As for the ramps Switches are normal wired NO (normally closed) Andby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
The computer doesn’t actually talk to the Arduino 2560, it actually talks to the tiny Atmega 16U2 (presuming you have a R3 board) The Atmega 16U2 does all the fancy USB to serial conversion. Since the board is not recognized by the computer, this chip is not talking. I would have though power also, but you say the LED is glowing... so Im afraid it sounds rather dead. I would check it really hby Dust - Controllers
wondered that myself, and presumed their mega has bad io lines, or the board inter connects are bung. So I answered presuming they know what they wanted. They seem happy with the results. So all good.by Dust - Controllers
Just edit your pins.h In more detail. In configuration.h you set motherboard = 33 Find that in pins.h starts at The extruder pins are defined so take #define E0_STEP_PIN 26 #define E0_DIR_PIN 28 #define E0_ENABLE_PIN 24 #define E1_STEP_PIN 36 #define E1_DIR_PIN 34 #define E1_ENABLE_PIN 30 and make it #define E0_STEP_PIN 36 #define E0_DIR_PIN 34 #define E0_ENABLE_PIN 30 #define E1_STEby Dust - Controllers
Yip, they have been trolling the reprap forums stealing all the new ideas again.by Dust - Reprappers
I agree, this reeks of sly advertising. So it would seem he has questionable morels himself. PTFE only hot ends always warp and fail. This is why most are something else with a PTFE lining. Yes it s cheap, but you will end up having to replace it, in the long run costing you more.by Dust - General
Have you tried a M115: Get Firmware Version and Capabilities ? See if tells you anything. If you cant find the board specs uploading new firmware is never going to work... you will need to trace every IO pin and work out what pin is connected to what device.by Dust - Controllers
this is why I requested that someone who knows what is going on up dates the wiki with know issues and work around.. as there is now going to be some 1000+ people with version 1A boards needing help.by Dust - Controllers
Ask in Sanguinololu forum. Also check for previous answers to the same questionsby Dust - Reprappers
1) You need firmware most useing Marlin 2) pass, but ramps is ramps you need this 3) Yes, you can get plugins that export to STL format from Google sketchup (may require a particular version of sketchup) 4) take a look at , lots of British flags 5) take your time, hangout on irc://freenode/reprap learn by watching others and asking questions. Building is only the first step. Then you need tby Dust - Reprappers