Ask in Sanguinololu forum. Also check for previous answers to the same questionsby Dust - Reprappers
1) You need firmware most useing Marlin 2) pass, but ramps is ramps you need this 3) Yes, you can get plugins that export to STL format from Google sketchup (may require a particular version of sketchup) 4) take a look at , lots of British flags 5) take your time, hangout on irc://freenode/reprap learn by watching others and asking questions. Building is only the first step. Then you need tby Dust - Reprappers
Makergear provide this with their older nichrome wire based hot ends. They call it "Ceramic adhesive" but yes its basicaly a ceramic that can take the heat of a hot end. see for more infoby Dust - General
swapping firmware like this is like changing you car engine because you ran out of petrol.. over reaction. Both work fine, and will have the same configuration issues with m119, check you actually have X on the x axis etc (its really easy to get them on the wrong pins) Ie trigger just the X endstop. Does X change with a m119 and repeat for all x,y, and z Next check the location of your endsby Dust - RAMPS Electronics
as with all end stop issues. Use m119 to display the endstop status Then trigger the endstop and recheck with m119 This will show if they aren’t working at all or are inverted etc. Also what sort of end stops? Mechanical or optical or magnetic ?by Dust - General
Wow, I've not seen that before.. Some people are so creative with their f***kups!by Dust - Developers
Teacup will work on that... But your going to miss out on all the new features...by Dust - General
m503 displays current eeprom settings. If its enabled in firmwareby Dust - RAMPS Electronics
a pde file needs to loaded and compiled to produce a binary, that is then uploaded to your hardware But in saying that... The firmware your looking at is old... hasn’t been touched since 2010. Get Marlin you still need to compile and upload it...by Dust - General
Zerker: Yes I use rattms on my I3's And I also don't recommend the 2.5amp steppers on the 2amp drivers.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
See for a good fuse calculator Also see for some descriptions of fields.by Dust - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Most Heatbeds actually have two LEDs, One in each direction. So it doesn’t matter which way you plug them in one will still work. Re endstops. If they are mechanical what ever you do, DONT wire the switches from + to - !!!!! I've seen this all to often lately. The result is a dead voltage regulator on the mega or worse. They are normally wired from S to - in a normally closed manner.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
2nded More likely you have destroyed the mega. Unplug the ramps from the mega ( while everything is off) and just try to connect to the mega with your host software' Depending on which pin you did plug it into, you could have put 12v on the 5v rail... worst case this could also have killed all pololusby Dust - General
for lcd for a sd card then encoder is just a bunch of switches. Also take a look at how RRd does itby Dust - RAMPS Electronics
It depends on your layer height but slic3r commends what it should be in the top of the gcode file. Take a look at that In saying that... unless you have a really small layer height.. that sound really wrong. Check that you have a nozzle set to .35 on slic3r (will also be in gcode comments) Then check you e-steps. Do the standard extrude 10mm. did your extruder take in 10mm?by Dust - RAMPS Electronics
Just something that look weird in your picture... Most ramps the first polyfuse is much larger than the second one.. eg Are you sure yours are the correct way around? if not you have the 5amp fuse on the 11amp rail...by Dust - RAMPS Electronics
I also recommend an I3, probably go for a Box frame. Re git Install some version of git for your machine Then give a git command eg "git clone " OR There is a download ZIP button on the lower right hand side. I personally prefer git as you can "git pull" and it updates any files that have changed. You can also switch to other source branches etc... and then there is the whole multi useby Dust - Reprappers
.15 is known to work.. but you need a strong extruder. The version i've seen used a makergear geared extruder I've never seen anything smaller that a .15.. you might have to make you own .1by Dust - Reprappers
Can some of you guys that are in the know update the ramps-fd wiki? v1A is out there now.. so It would be nice to have some details on the wiki... especially the faults found and any work arounds etc. Thanksby Dust - Controllers
see previous very similar postby Dust - Sanguino(lolu)
Z step not correct? (would expect issues lower down) Or extruding slightly to much so that it build up and eventually knocks your Hotend ? (cant see any drag marks) Or the axis it is skipping on needs a little more current. I'm guessing its on the Y axis that skips.. It could just be a weight thing... pololu current set a fraction to low and as weight build up it cant move the mass anymore.by Dust - General
Try adding the "-B 8" Or maybe other numbers for you... After this my chip ID was read correctly and it would writeby Dust - Controllers
On the ramps the pins are 2b 2a and 1a 1b. 1's are one coil, 2's are the second coil Ie coil pin are together.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Your pictures don't show any Pololu drivers installed. You need those (or something similar) to drive your steppers. Pololus etc only use 4 wire steppers... so you will need to find out which wire is what. Your steppers are 6 wires, which with luck are just 4 wires with a centre tap. Like the following image. You need to find the coil ends. If your lucky its wired sensibility it would beby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I have two Due boards One from RS the other a clone from geeetech Both have the 74LVC1G125 near the power connector like your bad type. The Clone you can clearly see the copper loop from pin 1 to pin 2 The Real Due from RS Pin 1 is not looped to pin 2. But is connected to a ground plane. The both say "Board Model DUE R3" on the silkscreen underneath..by Dust - Controllers
Some boards use digipots and you can set it in firmware. But not anything that uses a Pololu stepper board.by Dust - General
This is mostly likely that you haven’t tuned your stepper current on you X axis steppers So you don’t have enough current and you X axis is skipping For pololus see The math is different for different stepper drivers and steppers. Or you could just turn it up a fraction (no more that 1/8th of a turn ) and try it. As long as your steppers aren’t over heating or vibratingby Dust - Reprappers
Solenoids are relays are bad for high current, the mechanical connections arc and eventually weld themselves together..by Dust - General
Looking at the gen 7 board, which is a 20mhz 644p based tells me that both marlin and sprinter should work fine on a 20mhz chip Also useful info , seems like standard boot loaders also have issue with faster speed. So they have provided 20mhz versions. Also in this archive here is a boards.txt for a 20mhz chip... looks like the fuses are the same. which is nice. Tempted to try this myselby Dust - Sanguino(lolu)