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Discuss here what makes your printer moving.
Re: help - just built it, cant connect - 10 years ago
Its probably a Sanguinololu Board. It appears to the operating system as a serial port. Under windows you can see it appear and disappear from the device manager, under linux you can see it in the logs. You can find drivers hereby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Reprappro Huxley, Y motor, heatbed + extruder issues - 10 years ago
After reading the above... I would say with 99% confidence you have blown the micro (the large black chip) You say it was working and the firmware is unlikely to be changed. The thermistors are also directly connected to the micro. I would say get a new micro at this stage, get one pre programmed eg (this may not be the only thing, but one thing at a time... FETs could also be gone, thus no hby Dust - General
Re: RAMPS 1.3 PCB's now avalable localy - 10 years ago
If your thinking about getting one of these, you better be quick, I've only got 5 left. Once they are gone, that it for me. On or if you want one.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Reprappro Huxley, Y motor, heatbed + extruder issues - 10 years ago
Some fairly detailed answers and pointers 1 this points to the direction line to your stepper driver not toggling, either a dead stepper driver, or dead Microcontroller Pin. Or a bad joint between the two. Swap the X and Y Stepper cables (while it is off) Then try moving X back and forward in pronterface (this should move y back and forwards) If it moves fine try moving Y back and forth (x willby Dust - General
Re: Nema 17 for an extruder - cheapest local source? - 10 years ago
Have you tried molten media here in Christchurch? He has 2nd hand steppers quite often.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa connected and motors moving - 10 years ago
One thing I found the hard way is don't use Zink coated m8 on the Z, its to rough and produces to much friction. Use stainless steel m8 on Z if you can.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa connected and motors moving - 10 years ago
yes its thats it. It controls how much power the steppers get. Skipping is a good indication of not enough power. The standard way it to turn it all the way down (anti clockwise) then slowly turn it up (clockwise) till the moters move (they wont at first) then give it an extra 1/8 of a turn If its to high the stepper will get to warm, the stepper drivers could start screaming and or the steppby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa connected and motors moving - 10 years ago
If you motor wires have the black style connector, it can just be turn around 180 and plugged back in. (wont work with the white or red keyed connectors) NB only disconnect and reconnect motors with the power off, or you may blow a stepper driver Or you can set the inverse flag in the firmware. Z could be leveling, do you Z threaded rods stay straight or do they oscillate? Or it could be powby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa Mendel Power supply for Sanguinololu - 10 years ago
I used to fix switch mode power supplies as part of my job. So now I refuse to open them unless I have toby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Nema 17 for an extruder - cheapest local source? - 10 years ago
Nope, your google-fu is fine. This is just how it is.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Help! Connecting Sanguinololu to computer/Print run - 10 years ago
Hi What OS? Does the LED light up when you plug the board into the USB? Python is a language interpreter, it is only needed to run python applications (such as pronterface) step 1) the hardware has to recognize the FTDI I suspect your running windows? Open up your device manager Look at the serial ports, plug in the Sanguinololu, does the LED turn on? Does the computer now show an additionby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa Mendel Power supply for Sanguinololu - 10 years ago
My Sanguinololu look like this from the power connector The red power cable in a perfect world should really be yellow (for 12 volts) The red and black power cables lead back to a screw terminal and then to the Plug I mentioned. The plug also has the green and black shorted out. (the power on switch) NB there are two yellow and two black going from the plug to the screw terminal, neededby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa Mendel Power supply for Sanguinololu - 10 years ago
You dont need to do all those mods, I strongly advise not opening up a power supply if you dont know what your doing. All I did was get a converter plug from my local pc shop to plug into the large connector, cut off the end you dont need and use the wires from that to a screw terminal and from there to the Prusa Then you just connect the power button line to ground and your done. Somethingby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Looking for a build Mentor - 10 years ago
Hi Derae Im in Christchurch, with almost 3 printer under my belt (and have printed many sets of plastics for many others) See for 'log' of how I did it. As for which printer, I always recommend a Prusa. Even if you really want something else, As the Prusa is the defacto standard, lots of people have them and there is lots of documentation and advise. Once you have built a prusa, you canby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa Mendel Power supply for Sanguinololu - 10 years ago
6amp at 12volt is minimum for a reprap without Heated build platform (5amps is just for the Hot end) 17amp at 12volt is minimum for a reprap with a 12v PCB Heated build platform (11amps for the HBP) A standard PC power supply is what most of us use, or a 12volt only supply off of ebayby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: 1.5mm or 3mm - Noob Question - 10 years ago
This topic comes up a lot in the IRC channel From those that use both, they say there is no noticeable difference, and it definitely not worth the extra money 1.75 filament requires. If you planning extreme fine detail, ie a nozzle less that .25mm. Then it may be better due to the lower pressures involved, But it still going to take some pressure to force it threw that small a hole (makergearby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: End stops - 11 years ago
I just use micro switches, available everywhere... wired normally closedby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
RAMPS 1.3 PCB's now avalable localy - 11 years ago
I have a limited number of RAMPS 1.3 bare PCB's for sale. These are currently listed on trademeby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Ramps 1.3 PCB's - 11 years ago
I have traded some of my Sanguinolou PCB's for some Ramps 1.3 Boards (the last non surface mount version of this board) I will list them on trademe soon. If anyone is interested before then, send me an e-mail.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: 3D Printer Build (Napier - NZ) - 11 years ago
comment from Prusa today re jhead " weve had j-heads but each nozzle was different, a lot, and few of them were not usable :-(((" So I cant recommend j-head at this time.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: 3D Printer Build (Napier - NZ) - 11 years ago
I use the heated bed PCB from But if you have upsized your build area, this wont work. I really like makergear hot ends Ramps is good as is Sanguinololu for the main controller. You should take a look at www.emakershop.com and or www.lulzbot.com cheaper prices...by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Stepping Signal Problem - 11 years ago
The Y issue does sound like a mega issue. LEDs on the drivers? What drivers are you using? Standard pololu drivers have no LEDsby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Newbie WolfStrap build in Christchurh - 11 years ago
I didnt start with a wolf strap, but I did repstrap with a McWire Cartesian Bot 1.2 Same sort of thing, thread driven... very slow. But worked See my old blog posts..by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Newbie WolfStrap build in Christchurh - 11 years ago
10 tooth isnt a issue, you just recalculate the x and y steps for your firmware. normally 8 (tooth) * 5 (t5 belts) = 40mm per revolution (1.8 degree stepper is) 200 (steps per revolution) * (1/16 micro stepping) 16 = 3200 (steps per revolution) so 3200/40 = 80 steps per mm But for you its 3200/50 = 64 steps per mm Presuming you have standard parts.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: 3D Printer Build (Napier - NZ) - 11 years ago
People have tried to use this particular controller before, with no success.. see Also you still need a controller board, this provides the real time control that a pc with parallel port cant do. Ie if a milling machine (what these boards are for) pauses, no issue, the head just spins doing nothing, if you pause a reprap plastic will still flow, causing blobs.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Can you print me a part from a CAD drawing? - 11 years ago
I said no simply because I don't use ABS. Its stinks when being used, and is petrochemical derivative... basically not a nice plastic to use. But in saying that It does have some advantages over PLA, but not enough to make me want to use it. I didn't elaborate on this, as my auction is not the correct medium to discuss this. Step one. I would upload some images of the cad thing you want, orby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Newbie build in Wellington - 11 years ago
Using a resister as a heater is just abusing the electronics, nichrome is designed to be a heater. That being said, resister hot end do seem to work, though Ive heard of a few burning out...by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Newbie build in Wellington - 11 years ago
Im now also selling bare Sanguinololu printed circuit boards, if thats any help to you See trademe.co.nz and emakershop.comby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Anyone supplying printed prusa parts? - 11 years ago
I have a set on trademe at the moment... Going to try a set a month for a while, till I get boredby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group