I've run the various test prints with mixed results but everything seemed fair - although a little sloppy in places. I tried to print what seemed to be both a good test print and useful part for me: This is a fan mount printing in the center of my bed. I've attached some pictures but I have the following visible issues: 1. On the back (not cut-out) side the model seems to slant slightly inwby ifrisbie - Printing
[email protected] 1 I have as much as 10 degrees drop from center to edges (very far edge) I had close to 20 but I added cardboard between the heater and the bed plate so I have glass-heater-cardboard-bed plate. 2. I keep mine mounted in the center board has a nice hole through to get close to the glass 3 I mounted mine with RTV copper (high temp automotive gasket maker) 4 maybe a littby ifrisbie - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi Everyone. I am returning to a project from over a year ago I had to abandon due to RL. Last I was working on my Prusa (I guess you call it an i2 now) I had the PCB Heated Bed MK1 with glass mounted to it with clips and the thermistor taped to the edge of the top surface of the glass using kapton tape. My goal was to print with ABS (which I never accomplished since I didn't have a working faby ifrisbie - Prusa i3 and variants
I've been experiencing a shifting of the Y axis after a Z-jump but only on some models. The thin wall test and the 50mm tower come out perfect, but every other calibration test shifts in the negative Y slightly with every z-step causing a slant. I'm confused as to why the model makes a difference. Anyone ever see this or have any ideas of what might be causing it?by ifrisbie - Printing
I saw this for the first time today on my Prusa. I went from printing the calibration tower (shown in pic) to the hollow box (bridging test) and all of a sudden without any configuration changes at all the Y axis started to shift after every layer (a very consistent shift it seems). The only thing I did between those two prints is change out the filament from white to orange.by ifrisbie - Printing
Quoteftechz I still have issues with bridging where it doesn't quite stick to the sides but a big blob gets dragged around by the hotend. Again, seen at the end of the video. Did you ever solve your bridging problem? I'm dealing with the same thing (not sticking to the edges, although I'm not 100% sure its reaching the edges. The design looks like it prints into the interior perimeter a bet beby ifrisbie - General
I plugged an old CD ROM drive into my ATX power supply and the voltage still drops and stays at 11.16V, no effect on bed temp. I don't think my supply needs an extra load on it.by ifrisbie - Printing
I made two changes: 1. Changed layer height to .2mm 2. Moved my speed down to 10mm/s (from 35 as the program defaults) and made all layers move at the same speed (PrintRun has setting for ratio of first layer speed to subsequent layers - which was set to .3, I set it to 1). So - with these settings and the nozzle correctly set and filament correctly set I got these results. Not perfect, but goby ifrisbie - Printing
Ok, so I checked a few things: 1. Verified that my extruded diameter is indeed .5mm 2. Verified that my 12V voltage did drop from over 12V to about 11V. Is that enough to be a problem? 3. Laid a meat thermometer on the hot bed and it is generally consistent with the reading I'm getting (reads a bit lower, but it is within a few degrees C of the measured temp. 4. Realize that I wasn't closing myby ifrisbie - Printing
Will be testing for power drop tonight and thermistor accuracy (I did get it from a RR vendor). Will also dry to slow down the print. Will verify the nozzle tonight as well, but I'm 99% sure its .5mm. Its what came with my kit and the other two nozzles I have (that are smaller) I was reserving for future use. Regarding your question about layer height, I suspected this as an issue as well. Tby ifrisbie - Printing
Yes, z was calubrated to .2mm on all 4 edges. I used a caliper to measure the diameter. I figured That your normal rule of a 2x4 isn't really 2 inches By 4 inches applies, but good to know it doesn't. As far as hot end diameter I assume you mean the inside shaft and on that I don't Remember, but I think it's wide enough to support 3mm, but not sure. My nozzle is 0.5mm. The discoloration isby ifrisbie - Printing
What kind of load would you recommend I put on the 5V line (I am using an ATX supply)?by ifrisbie - Printing
Tried a few more prints varying the layer height, the filament thickness (it measured at 2mm but I realized that the place I bought it from only sells 1.75mm, so I modified it on my last print), and the print speed. Never saw a direct setting for the extrusion rate so I assumed it was being internally calculated from my nozzle setting and filament setting? The print speed only seems to affect tby ifrisbie - Printing
Well, I decided to switch to the sample of PLA that I had since I could't achieve the proper bed temp. In retrospect I'm wondering now if perhaps it is because I'm using normal glass - there is a warning against this under the Heated Bed section indicating that there is danger in heating normal glass above 80 C. Perhaps I should be using something else as a base for ABS? Anyway, switched to PLby ifrisbie - Printing
I put my bed thermistor on the top of the glass. Its taking about 20 minutes to get up to 80 C. Another twenty leaves it at 88 C and it will sometimes drop below this but then climbs back up. But never seems to bust 90 C. Should it take that long to heat up? Biggest problem I seem to have at the moment is that when I start the print job - it doesn't extrude. Manual extrusion works, but prinby ifrisbie - Printing
QuoteThermistor requires special table to convert its output to human reading, and different thermistor might has a little difference. I take it this is a firmware table? Is there a tuning process outlined somewhere? My status is a complete machine in all regards. #1/#2 - yes, all axis working properly #3 - This is what I've spent all my time on for the past two months, took me forever to getby ifrisbie - Printing
Hi Everyone, I finally solved my print bed leveling problem and am trying to start my first print. Unfortunately I'm completely overwhelmed with all of the things (settings) to be concerned about. I found various pages that help with it (Calibration, Commissioning, RepRapSoftwareTweaking, etc) but nothing that focuses on how to make changes as it relates to your host software (where the settinby ifrisbie - Printing
Quotetoreil When testing it with hyperterm , It gives a line with characters, Do I need a special driver for the card ?? Are the characters completely non-sensical? However, I would say that if within a second or two of pressing reset you get these characters - then you have your original question answered - your chip is functioning and it thinks its driving something onto the serial port. Whby ifrisbie - Sanguino(lolu)
I used a dab of epoxy on the edge of the pcb where the wire exits. I holds well and maintains all of the strain of movement - and isn't that hard to remove if you need to.by ifrisbie - Controllers
Just as a sanity check - have you been through these? Sprinter docs (obviously light): Configuration Video: One thing I'd definitely try is to use Hyperterminal (if on windows) and connect to the port assigned (com4 in your case) and connect at the baud rate in your config file. When you hit the reset button it is likely you will see something appear on the line - this will prove your chiby ifrisbie - Sanguino(lolu)
How it is tested will be based on what firmware you supposedly have loaded on the chip. Someone with experience with that firmware can then chime in. I know with Teacup when I was trying to diagnose a serial issue I just modified the startup code to send output through the port - but someone may know built-in ways to diagnose.by ifrisbie - Sanguino(lolu)
It will also depend on what printer you are trying to build and what extras you plan to have (heated bed, different extruder, etc). There are plenty of people that have posted Bill of Materials for various models and you can use that to look up prices and get a better idea. I built a Prusa Mendel with PCB heated bed and Wades Extruder - I certainly would be happy to share my parts list/costs anby ifrisbie - General
If you are not interested in the challenge of building a 3D Printer your best bet is to buy a pre-assembled and tested printer from a member or one of the many people out there that sell their own custom builds. Prusa has been refined (Mendel90, MendelMax, etc) due to the difficulties in ensuring that parts are lined up properly among other reasons. If all you want to do is print, I say buy -by ifrisbie - General
another possibility might be a very large bolt with two nuts (bolt taller than the bar height). Could lock the lower nut to the bottom of the screw with some glue and use the other nut to adjust to the bottom of one of the 4 ends - then lock it in place. This would give me a flat and relatively orthogonal base to measure the other ends.by ifrisbie - Printing
Quotenophead I would measure the height to the base with digital callipers by standing one jaw on the ground and using the other jaw for measuring inside to measure the height under the bar. This is what I have been doing but you must ensure that the caliper is perpendicular with 2-axis. To get it just right for this to measure accurately under 1.0mm: * rock the caliper on its head length untilby ifrisbie - Printing
Well, I have an update. I have my new bars - they are not warped like the last two were. I don't have the Sell's Mendel bar clamps, still using my original ones. By enlarge I still have the same issue. Quotedustynus If the whole bed is able to move smoothly back and forth then the bars must be parallel. Certainly not the case for me, I have a very freely moving bed yet the left side (whicby ifrisbie - Printing
Its a big mess. Its almost useless the way it is. Experimented with viewing it as a KML file to put everything on a single page, but there is so much duplication and hokey input that it exceeds google limits, not all end up being shown. If anyone is interested, what you do is right click on KML and copy the link. Then in the search bar, paste it in and press search. Perhaps if it was cleanedby ifrisbie - General
Ha! Excellent - wish I found that from before! Perhaps this topic will revive it for those that don't know about it. I've changed my original message to encourage everyone to keep it up to date! I would though like to know why so many are flagged out in the middle of the ocean. Looks like a weird google map bug, or people looking for some anonymity? Hmm - looks like my addition doesn't stickby ifrisbie - General
Hi All, I was told that a link exists for Rep Rap map - so I added myself and encourage everyone that hasn't seen it to do it as well: Rep Rap Map If you added your link to the map I created, please copy it to the one above, I've left the link here in case you need it: my old map Please keep it fresh! Best Regards, Ianby ifrisbie - General