I'm using these: http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/hardware/t2-5-pulleys-and-belt.html There are other choices; you just need to make sure the belt matches the pulleys. If you're self sourcing, it's a good idea to order from as few suppliers as possible, to avoid losing any cost advantage to shipping.by derevaun - General Mendel Topics
The parts in the images appear to be upgraded from the "standard" Prusa i2 and are probably a better choice that the kit Wired1 linked (though I've built the latter and was happy with the overall experience, especially Makerfarm's customer service). There's nothing in the parts in the image that require more skill or knowledge than the standard parts, and the fact that the X Carriage has fan mounby derevaun - General Mendel Topics
Are you sure you're using PLA? You'd want to use 235-245 for ABS, but more like 175-190 for PLA. Likewise, PLA is more likely to stick reliably to blue painter's tape on unkeated acrylic than to kapton tape, though some do use kapton tape with PLA. In any case, the PLA will do all sorts of wiggly contortions when test extruding into free air. The bubbles are a concern, but I'd rule out the heatby derevaun - Reprappers
The fact that they addressed the X belt alignment was enough to get my attention. And the Y belt path appears to induce substantially less arbitrary friction than the Prusa i2 design. In fact, the whole design seems to be a fully realized, functionally sound design, compared to the standard Prusa i2. In that light, I wonder how long it will be before the Prusa i3 gets evolved into a truly sound dby derevaun - General
I used a set of pre-cut precision ground rods from Ultimachine. They needed to be cut down a little to match the specs for the Makerfarm Prusa i2 I built, but really only the X rods needed to be cut, and it was easy enough in a vise (using soft wood to cradle the rods) and a cheap hacksaw. The Y and Z rod lengths aren't critical. How's shipping from McMaster-Carr for long rods? Since they don'tby derevaun - General
I ran a 3D Printing course this summer. It was advertised as very experimental and hands-on. We were fortunate in that the Prusa Mendel I built in the weeks before the class didn't need major dialing in before being able to print basic useful objects. It did OK with a few test cubes and we went right into printing models the students made. Still, there were a lot of pitfalls along the toolchainby derevaun - General
While it's possible to self-source a 3D printer for around $400, I certainly wouldn't recommend anyone without prior experience trying it, unless you happen to live next door to a specialty hardware retailer like McMaster-Carr.Otherwise, multiple order with separate shipping charges will overwhelm that price point in short order. It is, IMHO, pretty easy to get in under US$600 with a kit, includiby derevaun - General
Maybe the M8 x 50 grub screw is for the X Idler? Simply sawing off 50mm from leftover lengths of framing rods suffices.by derevaun - General
Wow, tough room. My advice: buy a kit from a dealer that doesn't have a bad reputation. I had a good experience with Makerfarm, but there are others that are surely just as good. I dabbled with self sourcing for a second Prusa that I built with students, and found it to cost about the same. If I'd had no experience whatsoever, it would have been more expensive, due to more McMaster-Carr orders toby derevaun - General
In my experience, as a newbie, the Printrboard didn't need documentation beyond basic physical connections and Arduino board identification. There was a quirky requirement to unplug and re-plug an endstop on the first startup only, but that has probably been resolved since Rev. C. The Azteeg has even better documentation for wiring it up. It might have minor bugs to work out, like the Printrboardby derevaun - General Mendel Topics
The Azteeg X1 is perfectly suited for a Prusa Mendel. It does require soldering the connectors onto the board. That way you get to choose whenther the connectors point up or out from the board edge. You'll also need stepper driver boards, which may require soldering their pins--16 pins each on four boards. It's probably not a big deal if you're comfortable soldering, but it can in fact be a meaniby derevaun - General Mendel Topics
It's surprising that the linked X-End has that problem, but it's a known problem, which mostly seems to be simply tolerated. You can improve the situation by adding some washers between the motor and its mounting holes. There's been some discussion about it. The idler end is a bigger problem. Some recommend using two 608 bearings and omitting the large washers; I got more friction with that methby derevaun - General Mendel Topics
I agree that the interface isn't as obvious as one might expect. In acquainting students with Pronterface, I've not seen anyone able to turn on the hot end without having it explained first. So the advice to seek out tutorials is good. Once you learn the interface, it's easy to forget how much or little research it took to learn it I've gotten very helpful and congenial advice on the IRC channeby derevaun - General
3-in-1 is widely considered to be a bad choice for sewing machines, bicycle chains, guns, etc. It has a waxy component that hardens when the lighter components dissipate. There's some contention about whether that's still true of more recent formulations, which are probably trade secrets. Sewing machine oil is probably the lightest readily available oil. Gunsmiths seem to prefer it where gummyby derevaun - General
Sorry, I should have marked this "found" or "resolved" or whatever is appropriate. Thanks for the inquiries!by derevaun - Job Shop: I need stuff made!
I'm guiding students who are assembling a kit that includes Greg's X Carriage without a fan mount. I'd prefer we use one with dual fan mounts. It seems like this is a good prospect: ...but I'm open to suggestions for a better choice. Must be ABS.Red is preferred, to match the rest of the kit, but any warm color would be fine. I need it in Western Washington in about a week. Let's talk! Pleaseby derevaun - Job Shop: I need stuff made!
Hi folks, Title pretty much says it all. I understand the convention of A+ A- B+ B-, which maps wires to wire colors on datasheets, and I've confirmed that A and B are in fact A and B with a simple continuity test. What I haven't been able to confirm after a couples hours searching is whether AB is A- A+, or the reverse. I understand that I can simply hook it all up and watch the motors to seby derevaun - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors