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Re: Laser cut Aluminium X-Arm & Rib kits.... - 4 years ago
QuoteWesBrooks I'll vouch for the alloy bed plates! Running two sets here, also hammering out face shield frames. @orictosh hello! The filamentive clear PETG that you sold me when closing down the website is working great on the frames. More than can be said for a alternate 'snow white' PETG which is proving brittle. Did you get left with any more DHT sensors that you would still like to shift?by orictosh - Ormerod
SOLD OUT - DHT Sensors Temp/Humidity - 4 years ago
I have about 6 DHT AM2302 Temp/Humidity sensors for sale. £5 each includes Post and Packing by 1st Class Mail. Payment will be processed and requested by PayPal. PM me your address and number required and I will send you a PayPal payment request for them. Thanks Chrisby orictosh - For Sale
Re: Laser cut Aluminium X-Arm & Rib kits.... - 4 years ago
I would check with the person that sold you the upgrade kit for the MK2 printer. There shouldn't be any wooden parts within a kit. Davek0974 made the kit parts for me to order and I sold them upon my website 3DPrint and Stuff, which is now closed. Might have one on the stock shelf, will need to check. Check the image attached showing the kit made by Dave and sold by myself. Regards Chrisby orictosh - Ormerod
Re: Looking to buy Ormerod 2 heat bed - 5 years ago
QuoteSardi I have basically tried everything but contacting RepRap Ltd directly what is Im gonna do next. I did find a couple of heat beds, but they are just heat beds, no looms, cables, nothing, and I would really like to have the whole set. Do you still need a complete Mk2 heat-bed?by orictosh - Ormerod
Sell Parts or Complete Printer? - 5 years ago
Hello, I have an Ormerod 2 RepRapPro Duel extruder, with quick set nozzles 3D Printer Model 528.4 Also has the duet add on board. It has the aluminium X-Rib and Print Bed support upgrades, also a lead screw for the Z axis. I'm wondering and looking to sell it or would it be better to break and sell each part of it ? Thanks Chrisby orictosh - Ormerod
Upgraded OM2 Printer Bed Support Kit - 6 years ago
Are you having problems with the original MDF printer bed support kit? Not able to level the bed due the adjustment screws pushing though the MDF? Then you need this upgrade, (click the link below) made from high quality aluminium and from the Ormerod 2 RepRap drawings. Exactly like the MDF parts just in Aluminium, no more flex, bed is fully supported and solid Any questions, just visit the cby orictosh - For Sale
Re: Laser cut Aluminium X-Arm & Rib kits.... - 7 years ago
QuoteDavek0974 Hi all, Christmas is coming - we still supply the bed and arm kits for mk1's and bed kits for mk2's Also have stock of the Ormerod MK2 printer support bed 3D Print and Stuff - Printer Bed Support Improves the levelness of print bed and won't bend or warp like the original MDF one.by orictosh - Ormerod
Re: Laser cut Aluminium X-Arm & Rib kits.... - 7 years ago
QuoteDavek0974 Parts are still available Same here; As I still have a few Y-axis bed support platforms for the Ormerod 2 printerby orictosh - Ormerod
Re: Can someone print me this case from thingiverse for my touchscreen monitor - 7 years ago
Hi, Wondering if you still need this printed? Any particular colour or filament type?by orictosh - Job Shop: I need stuff made!
Re: My first mod - new Z axis leadscrew - 7 years ago
Quoteepninety The STL file is attached. The O-ring to fit is BS1806-213, 23.39mm x 3.53mm leadscrew_znut_v5_rot.stl Would it be possible to re-design this STL file so that the hole into which the brass nut is 10 mm rather than 8 mm ? I have linked to this message and to the file from my site As I found this part useful and straight forward to mount a lead screw. Many Thanks Chris Hillsby orictosh - Ormerod
Re: I need your help: stl files for Ormerod 1 - 8 years ago
Hi, You should be able to find the required STL files upon the RapRapPro Git hub page. Here is a link Kind Regards Chrisby orictosh - Ormerod
Re: Gears turn but filament will NOT extrude - 8 years ago
Quoteadenton The makers of the filament recommend between 180 and 210 In this case, I would set the hot end temp to 195 To get that figure do the following (180 + 210) / 2 = 195 Then adjust up/down 5 degrees (if needed) each time but don't go above 210by orictosh - Reprappers
Re: Gears turn but filament will NOT extrude - 8 years ago
Check the manufactures suggested temperature, if marked upon the filament 185 is a bit low for PLA maybe try it at 195 or 200by orictosh - Reprappers
Re: ERR:MINTEMP triggered by X-motor - 8 years ago
Hi, Is the multimeter auto-ranging? Also are you making this adjustment with only the USB connection (5v DC) connected? Is sort of strange that meter is showing those voltages. Maybe replace the X stepper driver. Chrisby orictosh - Reprappers
Re: ERR:MINTEMP triggered by X-motor - 8 years ago
QuoteLymphomaniac1 Denuk: You say that you are using a Mega2560 board with a RAMPS 1.4 Board and your version of Marlin is version 1.0.2 Make sure you edit the configuration.h file in Marlin. To see how this is done see . Your board in version 1.0.2 should be #define BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFB . (Yes RAMPS_13 is right since it covers both RAMPS 1.3 and RAMPS 1.4.) The default in version 1.0.2 is for theby orictosh - Reprappers
Re: software loading - 8 years ago
It could be that you are opening the wrong file. If you are using marlin (most recent and best IMHO) you should open the marlin.ino file which should show other tabs, not just one. The one you need to make changes to for your machine is configuration.hby orictosh - Reprappers
Re: PLEASE HELP: Spare 3D printed parts for Ormerod 1? - 8 years ago
Hi Paul, PM us your address and I will send you another bottom Z bracket Regards Chrisby orictosh - General
Re: Adding a Cooling Fan without Replacing the whole Extruder and Carriage - 8 years ago
This might work for you, This fan duct and spacer with a 75mm x 30mm blower fan There is a fan spacer used upon the Ormerod 2, which sits between fan and heat sink, upon which the ormerod fan duct is mounted. It mounts the fan in the X-axis direction, so looking at you photos it would point out to the right hand side, looking from the front. So it looks like this You will need to design a mounby orictosh - Reprappers
Re: ERR:MINTEMP triggered by X-motor - 8 years ago
QuoteLe_Nya @orictosh I am very embarrassed to admit it, but I didn't really got the test you described. Did you meant trying to pull off plug marked 1 on a picture and connecting it to the place marked 2? This one I already tried, that's how I learned that motor itself is working OK. Can I ask you, please, to explain in a bit more details? Don't be, The test you did for the motor was the one Iby orictosh - Reprappers
Re: Power and software issues - 8 years ago
Quoterangerrod Thanks for your input. I will take a look at the website you provided. The error message that I get is "error launching installer". It's more of the manual (a PDF) that I linked to. Error message not much to go on. The exe file could be corrupted and you OS might need some updates as this sometimes not have the right updates inside your OS causes an error like this. Have you hadby orictosh - Reprappers
Re: Power and software issues - 8 years ago
A quick google of " Cura_DGO_14.07.01" gave a link to the manual Posting the installer error message would help find the cause with launching the software. As with power setting it should be set to your counties requirements UK is 240v and the US is 110v, which as you have mentioned that one. I would say it correct and that you are in US. Using a voltmeter check the output of your PSU, be caby orictosh - Reprappers
Re: NetFab STL checking alternative? - 8 years ago
Things that cause problems with mesh and need repair Bad designs, which have no wall thickness, badly extruded from 2D drawings not allowing for the thickness of a wall in regard to outside dimensions or windows within them walls. Sketch-up was bad at producing good manifold STL files. Having two separate objects within your design that don't touch can cause non manifold objectsby orictosh - General
Re: Printer not working - 8 years ago
Check the power and ground connections. As it's getting hot due to excess current running though something aka a short which causes the MCU to shutdown. Is the Arduino 16 pin chip getting hot? Is that what you meant? This there anything on the smart controller that is shorting a positive connection, maybe dust causing high resistance ? Does the fault occur when the hot end is on or the bed isby orictosh - General
Re: ERR:MINTEMP triggered by X-motor - 8 years ago
Hi Le Nya, It could be related to firmware, as RRP firmware had a bug (now fixed) which stopped the cooling fan when the axis moved, lets check the hardware first. Just read back though your post, you stated that the drivers are built in, so I'm right in thinking can't be swapped out. If this is the case, maybe ping an email to the printer's support address and they might send you another boarby orictosh - Reprappers
Re: ERR:MINTEMP triggered by X-motor - 8 years ago
Are the connections to the temp sensor secure and not touching a metal surface? Do you get the same effect if you giggle the wiring without moving the x axis?by orictosh - Reprappers
Re: [UK] Ormerod 2-y-axis-aluminium-print-bed-support - 8 years ago
New stock in, get them while you canby orictosh - For Sale
Re: I URGENTLY NEED THE LARGE GEAR. Anybody here who could help out? - 8 years ago
Hi I should be able to get a large gear posted out to you. I'm based in UK. PM me your address and hopefully it will be in the post tonight.by orictosh - Ormerod
Re: Ormerod 2 error - 8 years ago
Quotejunhw Hi, I got an error in the log file pronterface.exe.log, can anyone please tell me what this mean? thanks. Traceback (most recent call last): File "pronterface.py", line 1137, in recvcb IndexError: list index out of range The error shown is related to a python file (*.py) within pronterface. The fact you get a temperature result from the M105 command show there is no problem with theby orictosh - Ormerod
Re: Riddle me this Batman - 8 years ago
QuoteMechaBits looks more like a temp thing there. I would agree, either increase cooling as it gets near the top or slow down the print speed or place a tower next to it, so that it moves away from the main print which will increase the print time for each layer. It's over heating due to the short time it's on each layer which doesn't allow the previous layer to cool enough to support the nextby orictosh - Reprappers
Re: Filament drying technique - 8 years ago
QuoteTinchus I had problem with humedity. After a lot of research and thinking, I came to this: (see in the middle of post) My dryer lets me dry many rolls at the time and also print with the roll inside, so it is always dry. Regarding times, I had problem with hig temepratures: for some reason some filaments change something in their composition. Also, the roll itself sometimed deforms. Betterby orictosh - General