Thanks for the responses, Quotenebbian Just make a frequency to voltage circuit, hung off the 'step' input to the stepper driver. Nebbian, could you elaborate on this setup? I am looking at your link, and I am seeing a number of different pre-constructed circuits on the market out there. Do you know of one that is specially made for this application? Quoteo_lampe The power of a DC motor haby Zernebog - General
I am working on a custom 3D-printing setup where I could change my extrusion speed by changing voltage output to a DC motor. I basically want to run two wire leads to an external control board and vary the voltage across them between 0-10V. I am trying to find a simple way to modify a RamBo printer board, so the printer can change the voltage based on the amount of material to be extruded, justby Zernebog - General
I am looking for someone who has the ability to print relatively large (roughly 170 L x 90 W x 65 H) parts in ABS without ANY curling. The prints are not difficult and would not require especially high resolution printing. I plan to sand down the outsides of the parts anyway, so as long as the dimensions come out correctly I would be happy. I will need about 9 parts total, and they may take 5-by Zernebog - Job Shop: I need stuff made!
Eureka! So, I changed my extrusion width to 0.5 and the multiplier to 0.95. I wasn't able to find where to change the perimeter overlap setting in slic3r so I left that alone. The pictures below are of different speeds. The right part in both images was printed at 75% speed and the left part was printed at 100% speed. After looking at them, it doesn't look like the decreased speed gives enougby Zernebog - Printing
Ok so I think 240C is where I want to be, but there are still some issues. The first picture I uploaded is what the part looks like with increasing temperature from right to left (Original Thread Post Part, 240C, 245C). The other two pictures are close-ups of the 240C and 245C. The 245C started to look like the filamnet melted before it cooled, which I assume means it is too hot. I was usingby Zernebog - Printing
Thanks so much for the help! I have been incrementally increasing the temperature and the retraction with positive results. I am still seeing some imperfections around the holes in the print, where it looks like the filament smeared instead of laid down nicely. I am not convinced I have hones in on the right temperature yet though so that may be part of it. I am currently at 240C. How wouldby Zernebog - Printing
I have a Rostock Delta printer and I have been trying to finetune all of my calibration setting for some time now. I have gotten my prints to look a lot better, but there are still some errors that I can't seem to fix. I am printing ABS with the hotend at 215C and the heated bed at 90C. I have played with retraction, speed, extruder steps, etc. The only thing I can think it might be is a loosby Zernebog - Printing
I am looking for someone who has a CNC machine to cut some custom aluminum parts for me. I am designing a new frame for my delta-style 3D printer. I am looking for a rough quote including materials cost and time to mill. I will need the parts to be about 3/32" thick and they would take up a circlular area with a diameter of about 18" at the maximum. Let me know if you can help me out or needby Zernebog - Job Shop: I need stuff made!