how apply applying a roll of thin polycarbonate to a flat piece of glass?by Simba - Developers
Hi! We have been developing novel polymers for the Reprap machines (we have a solid doodle, prusa MG2, and Makerbot). The polymers have the following goal: 1) Make parts heavier / more rigid by weighing them down with metal particles. They are still fully insulators, but they do conduct heat better. 2) Make rubbery materials - these are great for potentially making flexible / translucent matby Simba - General
Yes, the blue painters tape is one way to go. I prefer more porous card-stock myself. I find both PLA and ABS work well, ditch the heated bed, it creates more temperature gradients, and thats a problem! Instead of printing tall layers where you have a slow forming gradient of heat, and needs a hot base, instead deposit hotter filament and immediately cool it, so fast than the heat cools by theby Simba - Developers
Hey, I appreciated the feedback - if you need any additional details I get emails updated from this thread and I'm tinkering all day - Also remember that the way I did it, I used hot glue (EVA copolymer) to bridge the PCB to the glass - it takes a few heat-cool cycles under the force of those black-holder-clips for the glue to even out and then you'll be near 0.05 mm between corners, and it rareby Simba - General Mendel Topics
Cool... Do you think my paper trick is forcing the material to stay put? What I do is place card stock on a thin double-sided sticky tape for wide parts (over 50 mm in a length). I've done up to 120mm with not problems, but I notice the edges fighting the tape when I was putting it on the ends. The paper is almost bonded to the plastic, enough to keep it down. I'd love to try a super large prby Simba - Developers
Update!!! Even faster speed = around 100 mm/s maxby Simba - Developers
Hey, if you can give me more details, take a youtube video, that would help a lot. My guess right now is that your layer height = nozzle diameter (.5mm?). You need to reduce to about .3. Your temps also look too low by 10 degreesC and the fill extrusion on perimiters looks to be too much. What printer, plastic, temp settings, Slic3r version...etc...are you using. This is definetely an optby Simba - General
MattMoses Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I think it would be cool to make an automated > chakpur. (A chakpur is the tool that monks use to > deposit sand when making a mandala sand painting.) :-p See..I always knew people would come up with something I never even knew existed to used this for...hahahah. Can you think of anything more mainsteam? I waby Simba - General
>I think it would be cool to make an automated chakpur. (A chakpur is the tool that monks use to deposit sand when making a mandala sand painting.) :-p See..I always knew people would come up with something I never even knew existed to used this for...hahahah. Can you think of anything more mainsteam? I was thinking a beverage art printer...cake, beer, toast, etc.. like onlatte but powderby Simba - General
NewPerfection Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The heated bed does more than just make parts > stick. It helps keep them from warping. Most > heated beds draw under 100W, I don't know where > you get the 300W figure from. > Correct me if I am wrong...I've relatively new, But I don't understand how the heated bed helps prevent warping. Warpingby Simba - Developers
Hey Man... (or woman?). Great post - I have a LOT of comments for you : ) I totally appreciate what you are saying here, and the basic idea. The way I like to reframe it is, most people aren't gonna be like "hell yeah!" and write it. They'll be like "hell yeah!" but think its not worth the extra time to write it because its good. They quietly agree and move on.... hoping you'll carry on.by Simba - Developers
Hey, This is really great work. I looked at all your links and though I agree it is super preliminary to be comparable to off the shelf parts, imagine where we would be at if the same level of industrialization that went into commercial parts went into making 3D printed copper wire, magnets, and plastic or metal housing? Just to clarify, my goal isn't to make lame "conductive" ABS that youby Simba - Developers
Hi John, What was your goal? And what were the limitations? Cool approach.by Simba - General
$4/hr? I use more ABS per hour than $4 worth. How do you afford that, or does it print slow?by Simba - Job Shop: I make stuff!
Hello, I can do it but I don't have the plastic handy. Nothing too especially hard here, except for tolerances. They would be 0.1mm at best, and you aren't flowing liquid or anything through it...its just a fairly sturdy structural part. With a properly calibrated reprap, bridging the joints would be totally doable (and reproducible). This doesn't actually look that hard. However, I'm buby Simba - Job Shop: I need stuff made!
I've read that this is the holy grail of 3D printing - to print both physical structure and electrical wiring - i.e. to print a PCB! I thought this would be super exciting but I got no response from my post in the general area.... . Perhaps it's been talked to death, but I haven't seen ANY progress that I would consider adaptable to today....Obviously, printing wires would be a fundamental eleby Simba - Developers
I am *very* happy with my cheap chinese PLA. Doing overhangs and such. I would guess more than 50% of the "PLA" that comes around for the next pass is truly and strongly bonded to the previous layer, and thats better than lukewarm for ABS. I still think the cheap chinese PLA is adjulterated by 20% or more ABS - 1) I smell it 2) the properties are WEIRD. Its too high Tm to be PLA.by Simba - General
So I've researched as best as I can, and there is prior art, but nothing good enough for reprap to use TODAY like buying 1.75mm conductive filament. Wouldn't you all thing the best solution is a filament that can be printed the exact same way you current print, so it has no additional hardware or mechanical complexities? Think about all the things you can print...I might turn this into myby Simba - General
I think a good way to do this is Define in Slic3r, and/or visually select the range of Z= and what the limitations are. That way you can say things like "First 1 mm solid, next 5 mm = hollow and fast, last 1 mm = solid and careful"by Simba - General
Do you know anytihng more you can share about these nozzles? I've look around and never found any description of system that deposits powders. Can they do overhangs? God that is so cool - $,$$$,$$$ = "power is typically 500W - 6000W"..."Helium is used for the powder stream" ... something based on friction. Confusing still but cool. I am trying to make a powder dispenser. Do you think tby Simba - General
Hey Viktor! Thanks. My motivation to use powders includes food decorating, so I wanted to come up with a way to use ordinary powders (even with a few % trapped moisture) and what I thought was relatively large (0.5-1 mm) diameter nozzle. I understand why they do it the way they do now, but I want a non-solvent based method if possible. If no one has heard of any, I'll try to build one...if iby Simba - General
seeby Simba - General
tape down the sides of a sheet of printer paper, and turn up the temp of the first layer +10-20 if needed. I did it here Edit: Chinese PLA used here with great success : )by Simba - General
I should add that the paper trick is more idea for small starting base areas, or very large areas that need consistency. Its best suited to getting the print parameters right over many runs, then print away. Once finished, the paper is very much embedded in black PLA, but if you uses white you may not notice, or just sand it down.by Simba - General Mendel Topics
Hello! Check out these mods I made. I'm especially proud of a simple screw replacement to allow for ultra fast leveling alignments. Step 1 mount the PCB to a thick layer of hard wood (these act to allow smooth yet tight holding of the screws, and very adjustments over ~ 5mm, whereas the default screws did about .5mm). Step 2 drill and tap four 1/4-20 holes that align with the base lasercut-by Simba - General Mendel Topics
How can something open source be counterfeit? I think you mean poorly QC'd copy, or more likely an older version of the board they bought at auction.by Simba - General
I second this. The USB voltage fails over somewhere between 1-3 m in length, and becomes inconsistent. Also USB itself is fairly unreliable as a port (mechanically).by Simba - General
I want to dispense powders through a nozzle, like 0.5mm, to turn the standard powder printing process on its head. Instead of adding a full sheet of powder and then curing selected areas with a laser, I want to lay down powder ONLY where I want it using a nozzle. I've read about many many designs of "powder dispensers" or "powder nozzles" but I have not been able to find anything close to this.by Simba - General
I want to "print" a weak stepper motor or solenoid using a 3D printer. Has this been done? I know there are "conductive" carbon black ABS, but these are just designed to reduce static cling of pellets. Is there a filament that is truly conductive out there? Thanks!by Simba - General
Simple idea - why not try a burr mill coffee grinder? Should work well for a few handfulls on ABS. no good for PLA. Or a similar grinder submersed in mineral oil could both dampen damage to the grinder and prevent heat build up (For small batches. For large batches it would cause greater heat build up without recirculative cooling) How would you deposit the powder? 0.02by Simba - Powder Printing and Selective Laser Sintering