I've had nothing but trouble from suppliers in china. In fact, I think I've had every single problem there is over the last year; Brittle filament, out of round, non-continuous (pieces taped together mid-spool), large blobs on the filament, colors changing shades partway through the spools, too small, too big, full of air bubbles, full of moisture, getting the wrong type of plastic... I've hadby Andrew Diehl - Developers
The print head has to slow down before changing directions (acceleration) The pressure in the print head does not change instantaneously, so if you slow down the print head the extruder will not slow down until a fraction of a second later. As your print speed increases, the delay increases because there is higher pressure in the extrusion head.by Andrew Diehl - Printing
Without a heated chamber, any single part over 200mm be it ABS or PLA will have bad warping issues. Scaling a machine to 1meter that still makes good quality parts at a reasonable speed (even ignoring any warping issues)is a HUGE challenge. Just making a flat platform over that distance is tough. Superglue is a friend of ABS so I would highly suggest just gluing smaller parts together.by Andrew Diehl - General
I'm sure there are a bunch of different ways of goign about it, but here is what I personally see as the best, based upon experience with skeinforge/sfact/slic3r/kisslicer. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- First, there are three general implementations of multiple extruders I have seen so far which show a lot of promisby Andrew Diehl - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
He only meant his presentation is copyright (the video he showed)by Andrew Diehl - General
Fair enough. I only saw was was on the linked indigogo page. > Hmm... I would say it is pretty much a finished > design. No longer Ingiegogo. They are for sale now > on their website, in stock... > > Just do a quick "utube" or "ustream" search for > "seemecnc" and you can see a few real prints. I > was shocked at the quality.by Andrew Diehl - General
Really Bad Idea. Since you have a set of criterion, do not buy a printer which is not finished and can't make any real claims as to performance. The biggest thing to look at is the parts that a normal user have been able to make with the machine. Not saying they won't be good printers, but there are quite a few people left disappointed with certain other campaigns...by Andrew Diehl - General
I've been having the exact same issue.by Andrew Diehl - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Native arcs are having issues if i'm not mistaken (and doesn't buy you much at the 25mm/s you are printing perimeters at) Try it without arc support and see if that solves the problem perhaps?by Andrew Diehl - General
Probably the best way to do it is to have the square be ~2 layers thick (.4mm.) Should be enough to support things and only take 15min to make.by Andrew Diehl - General
It printed pretty well on my stock .2mm layer settings, though the 5th down line on the left didn't seem to be there.by Andrew Diehl - General
As much as I hate to admit it (because I love 3d printing), I think johnrpm may have a point. A small CNC mill will probably be able to make these simple designs MUCH faster, more precisely, and and less expensively than any 3d printer in existence.by Andrew Diehl - General
Your perimeter is printing too fast and the firmware is slowing the print down at the facets of the object to stay within the acceleration parameters. If you are using sprinter/teacup keep the perimeter under 25mm/s, and if you are using marlin the XY jerk value just needs to be raised (or print slower)by Andrew Diehl - General Mendel Topics
200mm is about the practical limit for good prints with abs or pla. Anything bigger always lifts/cracks without a heated chamber unless it is very short.by Andrew Diehl - General New Machines Topics
Lines have to be over .35mm wide, .2mm+ high It will probably cost $3-5 to print it from a .stl file. If you need somebody to design it in CAD it might cost a lot depending on the complexity. Would need a picture to quote accurately.by Andrew Diehl - Job Shop: I need stuff made!
I'll do this tomorrow! It should be no problem.by Andrew Diehl - General
It seems pretty likely this is just a concept and nothing more. Rack and pinion drive would have HUGE backlash, unless there is something I am missing?by Andrew Diehl - For Sale
They only have to release them if they altered the original documentation. Most places start the design files from scratch in whatever cad program they are most familiar with, so no release is necessary.by Andrew Diehl - General
The 25 was for it printed with a dimension machine/materials from what I can tell. which explains some of the cost.by Andrew Diehl - Job Shop: I need stuff made!
The Ultimaker seems perfectly capable of printing .05mm layers with 3mm filament... I can almost guarantee you will get worse results using re-extruded 1.75mm filament instead of the 3mm filament it was made from.by Andrew Diehl - Developers
Why not just use 3mm filament if it is so much less expensive?by Andrew Diehl - Developers
Making them solid and carving out is the right approach I think. That way you can also build in some way of mounting the spring, too.by Andrew Diehl - Job Shop: I need stuff made!
The .stl needs to be a solid object to print, not just a surface. Do they need to be hollow, or just you want to minimize the cost?by Andrew Diehl - Job Shop: I need stuff made!
Gosh I hope in 3-5 years the printers will be inexpensive enough and of high enough precision/quality you won't want to repair your old dinosaur of a machineby Andrew Diehl - General
I noticed many of the parts shown with the cubify printer were NOT printed on the printer...by Andrew Diehl - General
I use all Stainless extruders and I set the nozzle to 300C for max strength at 60mm/s. The filament through the nozzle certainly does not have time to reach that temp, though. The increased extrusion temperature does increase how much a part wants to warp, though.by Andrew Diehl - Printing
As is, it can't be printed without support. Is there a good reason automatic support is out of the question? The unsupported crosspieces could be printed if there was structure under the ends of the 'bridge.' We cannot make non-straight lines in space without using the generated supports.by Andrew Diehl - Job Shop: I need stuff made!
We're looking into this too much in my opinion. As long as your layer thickness is 75% or less of your nozzle diameter you are practically guaranteed success. The swell only needs to be figured out if you are really concerned with making a print with huge layer thicknesses (at which point you may as well have a bigger nozzle)by Andrew Diehl - Slic3r
I print everything with exactly the same settings, and with almost exactly the same results (as far as infill goes, anyway) You probably have harder vs softer filament and are using a spring tensioner for the extruder? The harder filament will sit further out on the pinch-wheel so more will be extruded. As has been said before, the swell does not affect total volume, only how much the filamentby Andrew Diehl - Slic3r
Almost every single parameter affects the free air extruded filament diameter, unfortunately.by Andrew Diehl - Slic3r