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15kg of filament for sale!! CHEAP!! - 7 years ago

I've got about 15kg for filament I am looking to sell. Mostly PLA, but a little bit of ABS. Looking for $120 + shipping/Paypal fees. Shipping would probably be $40-60 in CONUS via UPS ground. The 4 spools on the right in the first picture are ABS. Everything else on spools is PLA (there's even an almost full spool of glow-in-the-dark PLA!). I am not sure that the loose filament is. Pictures ar

Re: HUGE 3D PRINTER LOT!!! - 7 years ago

It is left over from printers I have bought and sold.

Re: HUGE 3D PRINTER LOT!!! - 8 years ago

PRICE DROP TO $1500!!

Re: HUGE 3D PRINTER LOT!!! - 8 years ago

I AM WILLING TO SELL THE PARTS INDIVIDUALLY!! PM ME WITH THE PARTS YOU WANT AND AN OFFER!!!

HUGE 3D PRINTER LOT!!! - 8 years ago

I am looking at selling the printer farm that I am in the middle of building. Right now there are 5 Ormerod style printers that are about 80% finished. Only a few things need to be mounted and the wiring needs to be done. Also included are A TON of parts to build about 10-12 more printers. I am located in the NYC area. Local is preferred, but I can ship if you cover the cost. I am looking t

Re: I'm looking for a 3D print farm? - 8 years ago

Im actually looking to sell my printer farm. PM'd you.

Re: Lego 3D printer - 8 years ago

QuotestephenrcA heatbed isn't really needed with PLA. Will it melt Legos? It can if it gets hot enough, depends on the plastic used to make the Legos. For PLA, you'll only use 60C for the bed, so they shouldn't melt.. Legos are typically made out of ABS.

Re: The sounds of silence - 8 years ago

Quotesungod3k The loudest element by far is my hotend cooling fan. Any attempts to get bigger slower spinning fans on an e3d mount? You can try one of these: I got one for my Makergear and it is basically silent now.

Re: Do CoreXY belts need to be of equal tension? - 8 years ago

Quoterealthor Quotegmh39 You can use a single length of belt (assuming you are not using the 2 plane method), connect the ends to the x carriage, tension the belt with the motors (or really anywhere), and secure the belt to the carriage again to effectively form 2 individual belts. That should give you the same tension in each section of belt. I am using the 2 planes so I can't apply this metho

Re: Do CoreXY belts need to be of equal tension? - 8 years ago

You can use a single length of belt (assuming you are not using the 2 plane method), connect the ends to the x carriage, tension the belt with the motors (or really anywhere), and secure the belt to the carriage again to effectively form 2 individual belts. That should give you the same tension in each section of belt.

Re: A better 300 colour thingy - 8 years ago

Would a longer melt zone allow the colors to mix better? I would think it would since the filament would be spending more time in the heating area of the nozzle.

Re: A better 300 colour thingy - 8 years ago

Re: 3D Printed Power Hacksaw - 8 years ago

That's pretty cool. Do you get any alignment problems from blade flex?

Re: 300 colour printed thingy - 8 years ago

Wow. This is a great looking print. Love the colors.

Re: "Practical" maximum size of cantilevered bed? - 8 years ago

I'm working on a printer that originally had a cantilevered bed about 400mm x 400mm that was mounted to 2 smooth rods at the rear and drive with a belt drive. I was made from 4 pieces of 2040 extrusion and topped with a 1/4" cast tooling plate. It was too heavy for my motor to move it. I ended up deciding to switch over to 3 lead screws that are driven by a single motor driven by a single belt

Re: Printer alive but stubborn taking commands! - 8 years ago

Make sure you have 12v power going to your board. It sounds obvious, but I've made that mistake a few times.

Re: Glide mount - 8 years ago

While technically A is the best way, a 3D printer carriage typically is not heavy enough to cause excessive wear in the other orientations.

Re: Saving the RepRap Project - 8 years ago

QuoteMattMoses Quotegmh39 Oh, and the US is a first-to-file country now. Discussing things in a forum or community doesn't get you anything except the possibility of someone patenting your idea before you. This is incorrect. The US system may be called "first-to-file", but the way it actually works is more complicated. Discussing things in a forum or community does prevent someone else from pate

Re: Saving the RepRap Project - 8 years ago

QuoteKoko76 A tool doesn't change the world, what you do with it does. Wise words right here. As for the OP, if a profit can be had, the market is going to be exploited. I'd be willing to bet, that if anyone was in the same position as Makerbot, they would have gone the same route. Sure it goes against the Open-Source code of conduct, but the point of a business is to grow. Now do I agree wi

Anyone know what printer this is?? - 8 years ago

It looks like a Tantillus/Ultimaker derivative, but I can't find anything on it specfically.

Re: Editing homing g code for x/z microswitches - 8 years ago

Quotedc42 1. Add parameters X0 Y0 Z0 to your M558 command, to tell it that the Z probe is not used to home any axes. Earlier firmware versions need those. In later versions of my firmware fork, the M574 command is enough. 2. Use the M119 command to test that the Z homing switch is working. A disconnected switch will show as always triggered. I changed out the z endstop and now it works. I gues

Editing homing g code for x/z microswitches - 8 years ago

So I'm using a microswitch for my x and z endstops instead of the traditional IR probe. I read a few threads saying I had to change M558 from P1/2 to P0, and I did that. I also changed the Z homing g code file to get rid of the G30 command. My problem is that when I press "Home Z" on the web interface, my z axis goes up, but when I move it manually in the negative direction, it moves down. I

Re: Inconsistent Y homing behaviour RAMPS/MARLIN/COREXY - 8 years ago

That is very strange. Have you tried swapping the boards to see if that's the issue? Off-topic (kinda): do you mind posting picture of the printer? I am intrigued by the "2 printers in 1 chassis". Also, what tweaks did you do to optimize Marlin for a CoreXY?

Re: Proximity sensor LED doesnt turn on... - 8 years ago

Quotedc42 The E stop led isn't meant to light up when you have the standard IR proximity sensor connected correctly. Use the G31 command to check that you are getting correct readings from it. If the web interface doesn't work on more than one Duet, that sounds like a problem with the cable or the IP address configuration. Do the LEDS in the Ethernet socket illuminate? Ok, it works now. I had

Proximity sensor LED doesnt turn on... - 8 years ago

I just finished up getting my Ormerod moving and leveled, and went to move the whole printer to position a spool of filament and now the proximity sensor (e-stop) LED doesn't light up and I can no longer connect to the Web Interface. Nothing has changed. I have checked and re-checked the wiring. I even wired everything just to make sure. I am running dc42 1.09r firmware. I've tried multipl

Re: Ideas for 1000mm^2 bed - 8 years ago

Correct me if I'm wrong, but my gut tells me you could mill/drill holes throughout the plate to help counter the thermal expansion. You would need to do some thermal analysis to keep the holes as small as possible and figure out the best pattern, but it would give the the aluminum some "room to grow".

Re: Kossel mini 3d printed parts - 8 years ago

2020 printed parts should be pretty readily available nowadays. Worst case, you'll just have to get someone here on the forum to print you a set (for a price).

Re: dc42 auto-calibration doesn't go all the way to the bed - 8 years ago

Here's my Config file: Quote; Configuration file for Mini Kossel kit from Think3DPrint3D ; Communication and general M111 S0 ; Debug off M550 MiniKossel ; Machine name and Netbios name (can be anything you like) M551 MiniKossel ; Machine password (used for FTP) M540 P0xBE:0xEF:0xDE:0xAD:0xFE:0xED ; MAC Address ;*** Adjust the IP addre

dc42 auto-calibration doesn't go all the way to the bed - 8 years ago

So I've got my Duet all set up for my Mini Kossel, but when I run the auto-calibration (G32) the effector only goes to about 30mm above the bed. When I put my hand under the sensor (IR Probe), it senses it so I know the sensor is working. Has anyone had this problem?

Re: Can't connect to Duet 0.6 - 8 years ago

Not sure what happened, but now it is letting me update the config file through the web interface...