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you'll probably need the aluminum arms. Acrylic would flex too much and give you all kinds of inaccuracies.
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gmh39
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General
Why not use a Flex3Drive? Supposedly it is the best of both worlds; lightweight of a bowden, but performance of a direct drive.
by
gmh39
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CoreXY Machines
Do the parts unstuck so well that you could theoretically "swipe" your finished parts off with an arm remotely and print again?
by
gmh39
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General
There's Auto-calibrate for delta printers. Are you looking for a Cartesian version of that?
by
gmh39
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General
Would this work for a basic cube with a few diagonals? I don't haev access to a welder and I don't really see a reason why it wouldn't. Just want to make sure I'm not missing something first.
by
gmh39
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General
The linear rails should just bolt onto the extrusions, provided you matched the linear rails mounting bolts with the size of screw your extrusions are made for. If you are concerned about the carriage on the rail sliding off the edge, you can just put an screw and t-nut butted up against the end of the rail.
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gmh39
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Extruded Aluminum Frames
Unless you are using some kind of variable steps/mm value that is dependent on the height of the z carriage, I don't see how it could give you the same linear distance with each turn of the shaft.
Based on the drawing you posted, the carriage would move faster at the bottom of it's movement and slower at the top because the angle that the spectra line makes with vertical does not stay the same.
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gmh39
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CoreXY Machines
I would suggest using 3030. It'll quite a bit stiffer.
At a minimum, use 2040 for the beams that need it.
by
gmh39
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CoreXY Machines
That would cause the z axis to move a different rate as it moves along the axis.
It is the same principle as why you need to make the belts parallel/perpendicular to their respective axis the CoreXY mechanism.
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gmh39
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CoreXY Machines
Also check out the SmartCore. It's a CoreXY designed by the guy who designed the Smart Rap.
by
gmh39
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CoreXY Machines
Make sure your belts are correctly tensioned, your Vrefs are set correctly, and your idlers are moving smoothly. I had problems with really loud movement about a month ago when I was starting to move my printer. Once I fixed those things, it started running smoothly.
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gmh39
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CoreXY Machines
With printer off and power disconnected, flip the motor plug on the control board. That should reverse the direction of the motor.
by
gmh39
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Reprappers
Quoteelwood127
It will not highlight in the menu so I can't click it. Any idea why this is. Thanks.
Make sure the EEPROM is enabled in your firmware. You also need to have your printer connected to access it through Repetier.
by
gmh39
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General
Im finishing up a Repstrap that has over 300x300 build area. Not sure what the final dimensions will be since I haven't gotten the build plate yet, but it's going to be big.
by
gmh39
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General
Lol. Figured it out. One of the motors wasn't plugged in...
by
gmh39
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CoreXY Machines
My corexy is turned on and my Ramps and Arduino are pressed firmly together.
by
gmh39
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CoreXY Machines
So Im setting up my CoreXY printer using Marlin and Repetier Host, and no matter the plug configuration I use for the motors, the carriage only moves in diagonally. I have tried every configuration:
X Y
M1 forward M2 forward
M1 forward M2 backward
M1 backward M2 forward
M1 backward M2 backward
M2 forward M1 for
by
gmh39
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CoreXY Machines
You should be able to just use the "EEPROM" in Repetier to easily change your step/mm settings. Print some test cubes or something simple to dial it in. If the part is too tall, lower the number and visa-versa.
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gmh39
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General
Im trying to decide what method I want to use for leveling my bed adn I came across this sensor (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Precision-Distance-Measurement-Sensor-/171837793891?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT). It seems to work with Arduino, but I'm really proficient in firmware, so if someone hasn't already gotten it to work I'd rather not try it.
by
gmh39
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General
Im interested in a board, but I am located in the US. Would it be easier to order one straight through you or wait till your distributor opens up? Im not in a rush, but I'd rather not wait a month to get it.
by
gmh39
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For Sale
QuoteJamesK
I like the design for the belt tensioner. I've been making all sorts of a mess around that. Yours is much simpler and tidier. Time to hit the mill again!
Same here. Great job on the design. Can't wait to see how everything turns out! This is one hell of an internship!
by
gmh39
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General
I am looking to have some pulleys that I have bored out for bearings and have the teeth removed.
There are 4 pulleys in total. All need to be bored for bearings, only 2 need to have the teeth removed.
If this is something you can do, shoot me a PM and we can talk further. I can provide drawings, CAD, etc.
-Greg
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gmh39
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Job Shop: I need stuff made!
From what I can see on their site, Simplify3d is only dual extrusion (https://www.simplify3d.com/support/tutorials/printing-with-multiple-extruders/).
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gmh39
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General
Figured it out. It was the how I had everything wired. I think I had some of the wires mixed up.
by
gmh39
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RAMPS Electronics
So this is happening:
It's freaking crazy!
by
gmh39
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General
It's a 5A 250W psu. Apparently it doesn't want to turn on at all now....
I have a 12V 30A switching psu that wont turn on either even when plugged back into the printrbot. I have no idea what's going on.
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gmh39
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RAMPS Electronics
It's a PC PSU I've been using in my Printrbot JR for almost 2 years now. works great there without having the 5V rail loaded. It outputs around 11.5V.
I'll check the resistance of the hotend and double check for shorts when I get home tonight.
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gmh39
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RAMPS Electronics
Everything I try and heat up my hotend, my PSU shuts off. I checked the wires and there are no shorts. It's an authentic J head so I'm 99% sure it's not the hotend.
Any one had this happen?
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gmh39
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RAMPS Electronics