Hi, I have recently put Olsson Blocks for sale on eBay. They are sold at the cheapest price with free shipping where all you beautiful RepRappers are Olsson Block is an upgrade for Ultimaker2 that allows for nozzle swap.by flashnet - For Sale
I have a RAMPS 1.4 board that I installed the newest Marlin firmware on. I have the printer (Prusa i3) mostly assembled, except I disconnected z-threaded rods and need end stops. Controlling with the smart LCD controller, I can move X, Y without problems. However when I move the z axis the motors buzz/hum and try to rotate, but can't. This seems to be to be a problem with the amps so I dialed thby flashnet - General
Drill bit and sand? What exactly is that accomplishing? Drill undersized and use a reamerby flashnet - Controllers
I'm a moron, I should've set #define motherboard=33 for ramps. I overlooked that being too anxious getting the LCD to display something, LOL.by flashnet - Controllers
Adjusting the LCD contrast does not appear to be the issue. However I noticed there is a place for a surface mount component which is not placed, could this be the issue? You can see in the picture it says RV and 3K whatever that means and there is screen print indicating a component.by flashnet - Controllers
I bought RAMPS 1.4 and a full graphical LCD controller. First thing I did was install Arduino IDE 1.05r2 on Windows 7 and the newest version of Marlin on GitHub. I also put the U8glib (included in Marlin) folder in Arduino library and uncommented #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER. However when the LCD is plugged to the RAMPS board with two IDC connectors, the LCD just lightsby flashnet - Controllers
Heres a little update:by flashnet - Look what I made!
I don't have a RepRap.by flashnet - Look what I made!
Here's a video where I cast the rest Didn't change the dimensions this time - maybe if I cast another set.by flashnet - Look what I made!
QuoteTraumflug Looks good, flashnet. I'm likely not the only one interested in reading what you use to make the mold. I made a wooden cope and drag (2 wooden frames basically) and made a negative in sand with the wooden pattern. 'myfordboy' on YouTube has excellent videos on the subject. Quotemartinprice2004 1) Reduce the thickness in certain areas. Aluminium casts better when the part has unifoby flashnet - Look what I made!
Today I sand-casted for the first time. Wooden pattern cut on CNC: Wooden pattern 1 Wooden pattern 2 Raw casting: Sanded down: Blue wooden pattern and finished side by side: My setup can be seen here, a couple of bricks and a propane torch: http://i.imgur.com/JUROR.jpg Only need 5 moreby flashnet - Look what I made!
Haven't really been able to find so much information about it, but seeing the problems people are having with PTFE and PEEK on price and slippery: Why not just find a pan and strip the handle and machine it? Old frying pans can be had for cheap or free. What's the downside? There must be some.by flashnet - General
Thanks for the help, they do seem to come in 5.08mm pitch. Is this for clearance or will the .08mm gonna be a problem.by flashnet - General
They come in a range from 10 and up, what would be the optimal amount of teeth.by flashnet - General
Looking for some T5 pulleys and stumbled upon these: Would they work better than printed pulleys, or does anyone know someone that sells to Europe. thanksby flashnet - General
Thanks for suggestion, ended up drawing in SolidWorks. Turns out the distance from hole to hole really is 58,5 mm. Anyways, some pictures of the patterns for the aluminium castings.by flashnet - Reprappers
I must say, being new to building my first RepRap is exciting. It is however extremely hard to find a way to make the parts other ways than printing. Now my project is to CNC mill the vertex both with/without foot, however I have only been able to locate the STL-file for the parts. This would be great if I was printing, but I need to get a 2D plane section of the curvy Vertex for the Prusa. Whenby flashnet - Reprappers