That's what makes me think that there's a config problem, or a setting somewhere that I can't find. I wonder if it requires a specific font file that I don't have installed... I really am clutching at straws here!by David J - OpenSCAD
I've just taken a look at OpenSCAD on my Windows machine - all is as it should be there. My problem seems to be specifically to do with the Linux installation.by David J - OpenSCAD
I am using OpenSCAD 2021.01 on Linux Mint 21.1. Everything works as it should, but there's something that's recently popped up, and it's very annoying! The font in the menu bar, and in the console, has gone italic (see images). The same goes for the menus themselves, and all of the sub-panels (like edit - preferences). The font in the editor is correct, as defined by in the editor options. Iby David J - OpenSCAD
Looks like this item has been de-listed, thankfully. The link above still works, but it no longer comes up in the Thingiverse 'most popular' listings (it was top), nor does it appear in searches. I hate to put down other people's designs, but that was just dangerous.by David J - Safety & Best Practices
I have read in various places that PTFE tube will start to give off these gases at around 205C. It just gets much worse at 300C.by David J - Safety & Best Practices
If you look at the Thingiverse home page you will see the following 'thing' at the number 1 spot. Filament joiner This gadget works by the user pushing the 2 filament ends into a length of PTFE tube, then heating that tube with a flame. Now many here will know that PTFE tube will start to give off extremely poisonous fumes at temperatures about 200C - and the higher you go the worse it gets -by David J - Safety & Best Practices
IIRC, the neutral should never be fused - if the neutral fuse should blow before the live one, the entire circuit would be at live potential.by David J - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist The neutral side of the line is normally not fused because it connects to the ground wire at the breaker box. That's the US practice, I believe. In the UK, the neutral is earthed at the nearest sub-station (usually somewhere in the local district), which means that it may carry some voltage, but nowhere near full live potential. Earth is always connected within the houby David J - General
I have a mains-driven heat-bed on my Core-XY printer: The metalwork of the whole machine is connected to protective earth, including the moving metal plate of the heat-bed itself. This is the first line of defence should either of the power lines come loose and touch the frame. I also have a thermal fuse between the heat-bed plate and its heater pad, chosen to fail at around 125C (my chosen maxby David J - General
Potentially dumb question: have you checked the extruder temperature when it stops extruding? I had a similar problem shortly after I started 3d printing, where the fan was over-cooling the extruder head, resulting in the temperature dropping below the minimum temperature set in the Marlin configuration. All the motion worked, but the extruder didn't, just as you describe. This happened especiby David J - Printing
I wonder if you've been caught by something that got me in my early printing days... relative and absolute movements on the extruder. I would feed say 100mm of filament, then call for 2.5mm of retraction. Instead of just winding back a little bit, it would take the filament right out of the extruder! Let's say that you start from an initial position of 0 steps, call for 1000 steps on the extby David J - Firmware - Marlin
Have you tried a lower F value? Maybe 10000 is too fast for your system.by David J - Experimental
IIRC, the PTFE tubing does go into a recess in the top of the heat-break, so that it lines up correctly with the filament hole. However, it is still on the cool end of the heat-break and shouldn't reach dangerous temperatures - unless the fan fails and the heatsink fails to keep the cool end cool.by David J - General
You may have got away with it - what really screws them up is unplugging them while the motors are running, as the back-EMF from the motor coils can result in a massive voltage spike that blows the electronics.by David J - General
The top is the only real problem for my printer - sides, back and front would be easily managed. The electronics are in the spacious base of the printer, easily accessible at all times and well clear of the heat-bed - well ventilated too, with a fan. A chamber heater may be required - not yet investigated. The heat-bed is mains-powered so not lacking in heating capability. It looks as thoughby David J - CoreXY Machines
QuoteVDX ... could be done with a card hood, high enough True, but I was looking for something more... sophisticated!by David J - CoreXY Machines
I have a self-built CoreXY printer, to the G&C Printer design on Thingiverse. This works well but, like most open-frame printers, making larger things in ABS is a pain. I have a bed that will easily reach 100+C, but drafts and general room coldness result in larger prints warping and cracking. Enclosing the print area is the obvious answer, and the four sides are easy, but I can't see howby David J - CoreXY Machines
This is the solution to a lot of queries I get from a kit car forum to which I belong - 3D-printing novices think that they can make bits to fit on their car engine, not realising that the filament's printing temperature is way higher than the moderate temperature at which the finished items will collapse in use (glass transition temperature?). Many of these people could design and make parts uby David J - Look what I made!
I should add that this works for me - your results may vary!by David J - Printing
You could measure the number of threads in a set length of your Z leadscrew - mine is 10 tpi - then convert the measurements to metric and work from there. So 10 turns per inch, or 25.4mm One successful fraction of this (for me) is to have a layer height of 0.25mm. By using this I get a far smoother finish than by using 0.2 or 0.3. I suppose I could make it 0.252mm, or even 0.126mm, but I havby David J - Printing
Have you tried setting your layer height to an exact fraction of the pitch of the Z axis feed-screw? It works for me...by David J - Printing
I think that you're about 2 years too late with this information...by David J - Safety & Best Practices
That's roughly what I had previously, although my chain was home-made and the PLA got fragile after a year or so (as it will tend to!). The main difference with yours is the loop around the top of the carriage: mine started in the back-right corner, and the other end attached to the left of the carriage - this meant that the severe bend when at the extreme right strained the chain somewhat. Takby David J - CoreXY Machines
This is a minor annoyance - but it's really getting on my nerves, and also my wife's! My CoreXY printer has a bundle of wires that go to the X/Y carriage - it's inevitable, they're required. Originally I had a cable chain to keep them under control, but the chain's minimum radius meant that when the carriage was at X-max and Y-max the chain had to close right up and also hang off the right-handby David J - CoreXY Machines
Here's my viewpoint, from my many years in quality assurance: if a particular product has mostly good reviews, with the occasional bad one, there's a fair chance that as a whole the product is a good one and the manufacturer has a good testing system. If there reviews are an even mix of good and bad (as often found with Chinese E3D clones such as these) then it means that their quality assuranceby David J - General
Interesting - but it doesn't address my problem - I am trying to get the Marlin M600 command to work properly. I am not interested in filament changes using other machines, software or slicers. It's simply that Marlin has the M600 command, and it isn't working for me. I'm trying to find out why.by David J - Firmware - Marlin
QuoteRoberts_Clif In cura I use Park at Z with Prusaslicer a pause can be inserted from the Preview window or here Park isn't really the problem - it's the filament unload/reload that's bugging me. Also, I don't use prusaslicer...by David J - Firmware - Marlin
I have a Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus, with a Trigorilla board running Marlin 1.1.9 - this has been running nicely. Now I have been wanting to use M600 (filament change), and I've *almost* got it working properly. Here's what I've got in the marlin code: Extract from configuration_adv.h: #define ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE #if ENABLED(ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE) #define PAUSE_PARK_RETRACT_FEEDRATEby David J - Firmware - Marlin
OK - I've painted myself into a corner. I've been fiddling with the gcode associated with my Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus delta to try and get rid of a persistently annoying error, and I've managed to screw it all up. No backups of the old code, of course... All I'd like is for someone to show me their gcode for start, finish, pause, resume, and kill. I can then compare it with what I've got aby David J - Delta Machines
I don't know the Mac OS very well - but on my Linux system that often indicates that the user doesn't have the correct access rights for the comms port.by David J - Reprappers