Ah! In this case, you should be O.K.. potential problems are how large an item you are turning and what your power supply is - I see the motor is rated for 10V so you will have to use a power supply in this range, 5V may be O.K., 12V would probably be too high. Mikeby leadinglights - General
The L293 is a perfectly good driver for stepper motors, but it is just that, a driver - an amplifier of the small signals to switch on large currents. If you just want to apply a level to signify direction (high for one way or low for another) and a pulse for a step to be taken then you will need a controller which takes this step and direction inputs and converts it to the signals for a driverby leadinglights - General
@theodleif So far only sorrow, but not due to any failure of the theory, but because boring out a 2mm hole 50mm deep to 3mm dia is almost guaranteed to break through the 1mm wall. I used 2 of my 4 available nozzles before the full force of my stupidity struck me - bore the 3mm hole before turning the 4mm outside bit. Also, I want to get the 0.4mm (or 0.25, 0.35, 0.5 hole) precisely in line with tby leadinglights - General
I have looked through all of the reports that come up on the first three pages of a google search using the terms Manchester 3D gun and can't convince myself that the same person charged with making gunpowder is the same person who had a 3D printer. There seemed to have been a widespread police opperation. One paper seems to have reported that the owner of the printer had been released on policeby leadinglights - General
Exactly what vibration supression is needed depends on the nature of the vibration - comparisons with milling machines are not terribly useful as there are no forces analogous to the reaction forces from a cutting tool in a 3D printer. Quite simply, it is possible to get accuracy in the same ballpark as a milling machine from a 3D printer, or laser cutter or other lightly constructed instrument wby leadinglights - General
I notice that Googling for 3D gun manchester still has BBC as of 5 hours ago said QuoteGreater Manchester Police (GMP) now say they "cannot categorically say" whether they had recovered the component parts for a gun. A force spokesman said if the tests showed the parts could make a functioning weapon it would be the "first ever seizure of this kind in the UK". Also, several times on BBC on TVby leadinglights - General
I concur with Sublime that General is being used for everything, while concuring with Dark Alchemist about this being a General subject -however, I reserve my opinion on almost everything else that Dark Alchemist says Perhaps the solution would be to move this section to the end of the listings - and change it's name to General - for subjects that won't fit elsewhere Mikeby leadinglights - General
As long as the moving part of the hot end conforms to the usual all metal thermal profile there should be no oozing. Whether there needs to be cooling, and if it is better to provide this by for example, water cooling, or cool blocks I leave to anybody who thinks the idea has merit. As to the hobbed bolt etc., I have left this out for simplicity -along with the rest of the printer. Mike.by leadinglights - General
I was intrigued by uGens entry under 2 Extruders : 1 Hotend but didn't want to muddy that area with something that is a bit different. Some months ago I thought of this idea for a single hot end with several nozzles. The bit that I haven't seen before is having the nozzles spring loaded - yet free to move in the heater block. The idea is that when a filament is fed, for the first distance, say 1by leadinglights - General
Request to the moderators, maintainers etc. of this forum: Please open a Philosophical Debates branch into which this and other debates can be moved when they have moved so far from their origin as to be unrecognisable. This would also serve the function of allowing even the sanest of us a place to go when we want to do some really hard blowing. Mikeby leadinglights - General
Hmm, I prefer to think that DaveS had peppered his entry with smilies - which didn't come out in submitted version. by the way, as your sig is: QuoteI await Skynet and my last vision will be of a RepRap self replicating the robots that is destroying the human race. I think you may quite like the story Looking for Jennifer Cartwright on Kindle books. It begins "You are a Springy280 flybot, freshby leadinglights - General
This thread seems to have developed two heads: Why are printed parts kits not selling these days Why is the forum so unusable Addressing the first one, I think it is for many reasons: a loss of the early enthusiasm; non printed parts being available; new designs with mostly non-printable parts; an invisible army of people making for friends - these and other reasons. I think that the main part iby leadinglights - General
I managed to cut the weight of my Y carriage on an early Prusa from 1.4kg to 0.48kg and made it much stiffer. The first thing I did was eliminate the glass plate - I used a 2mm aluminium plate which doubles up as a heat spreader for the heater. This is covered in a layer of Kapton, 200 mm wide. Note that anodised aluminium sheet is normally harder than non anodised sheet The heater is directlyby leadinglights - General
Not having a thermal package (or not having learned one, I am sure that there are open source programs available), I modeled it as if it were a string of resistors: knowing the cross sectional area and length of each section and the thermal conductivity - which I treated by analogy to electrical conductivity. While I am not sure if the analogy holds up and there are many unknowns (and probably unby leadinglights - General
I have tried to machine an inverse taper in one of my nozzles as per nopheads recommendation, but so far have been spectacularly unsucessful - now unexpected as this would be 25mm down a blind hole. As I am quite intrigued by the idea that either feeding or retracting filament creates forces to pull the filament away from the wall, I decided to return to investigating the effect of an inverse tapby leadinglights - General
O.K., I have found it. Version 0.90 of the firmware presently exists only in Alpha. I will continue trying to perfect my auto extend/auto retract Z probe for the Rostock and the Prusa and hope it lifts it's head into the stable arena soon. Mikeby leadinglights - Firmware - mainstream and related support
In there is the following:- QuoteSince version 0.90 the Repetier-Firmware supports auto leveling. But the Repetier Firmware is only up to 0.83. Searching in configuration.h and all other headers for the section of code in the above draws a blank. Do I have to break out the deLorean and travel to the future? Mikeby leadinglights - Firmware - mainstream and related support
As above. I want to download the configuration from the Arduino on my setup (Ramps 1.4, Rostock) Further info: Many months ago, in an excited thrashing about when everything was going wrong and the gods seemed against me - it suddenly went right. The sheer relief drove any thought of doing my normal meticulous documentation* from my mind and I can't be sure even if I have still got the Arduino fby leadinglights - Firmware - mainstream and related support
O.K., I see the point now. Feed the heat into the wide end of the tapered section, suck it out of the narrow end and maintain a gradient in the plastic from hot and fluid in the melt chamber to not-quite-molten at the entry. Something like a low thermal impedance connection at either end so that the temperatures don't waggle about with small changes in output. To use bits that I have already madby leadinglights - General
Hi A2, The datasheet for Tecapeek graphite loaded PEEK does not give a number for thermal conductivity, but the choice of range indicates that it is in the same ballpark as PTFE - consistant with a graphite content of 10%. I may try your idea of electropolishing the inside of the melt chamber -I keep phosphoric acid here as a flux for soldeing stainless steel and I am sure I can find sulphuricby leadinglights - General
Hi nophead, The sleeve is there just for lower friction than a drilled hole and also to allow a thin wall on the stainless steel tube, so cutting down heat loss. The top PEEK block isn't a thermal insulator but a terminal block, the cuttlefish bone below it is again to conserve heat. Pictures below of an earlier incantation, show the nozzle, the terminal block and heat sink. Heatsink fan helps aby leadinglights - General
The OP (Simba) asked if there was any alternative to PTFE and I mentioned that I had tried graphite loaded PEEK, but that it had not been a success. On retrying this, I find that it was jamming because ABS filament had expanded in the melt chamber, been cooled on retract and then jammed in the graphite loaded sleeve -Tecapeek is much much harder than PTFE. I am going to retry this with a modifiedby leadinglights - General
Graphite loaded PEEK sold as Tekapeek by RS 297-0147, £11.88 for 300mm of 10mm dia. I have tried this in the liner of a hot end but it was not a success -possibly for a reason unrelated to the material. i will try again in the future when I am not firefighting just to keep the damn thing running. Mikeby leadinglights - General
woo Wrote: ...... > finally the question: > > i see that most of printers have one or two very > narrow placed linear bearings on "Y" axis, so i am > wondering how those printers maintein Y/X axis in > right angle? is the belt/fishing line or whatever > held this two axis @90 degrees? > ........ I think that the forces involved in plotters, 3D printers and other thingsby leadinglights - Developers
Some time ago I saw an article about a 3D printing lathe in which the Y and Z axes were normal, but the X axis was replaced by rotation. I am now not able to find the article - has anybody else seen this? I think the author or maker was Russian. My interest here is in making cylindrical objects which would not normally be makeable with FFF/FDM machines - e.g., a cylinder for a 1st World War Gnomby leadinglights - Developers
Nice idea Josh_mp5, but I have solved it. The problem was a plug of plastic which had built up in the hot end - every time the hot end was stripped the PTFE liner was changed - and each time the gap got bigger, finishing at about 2mm. All is back to normal - except I have disturbed every setting in the book and will now have to recalibrate. Mikeby leadinglights - General
I have had quite a few prints ruined by the hobbed drive gear on the extruder getting blocked. Cleaning is possible but never easy, requiring at least the removal of the idler and filament. A passage under the hobbed gear will allow access to a tube brush (bottle brush) and compressed air to clean it out - even when it is in use. Picture below shows a ghosted view of an extruder I have built withby leadinglights - Developers
At long last, the inexplicable is expliked! On removing my hot end and redrilling the 2mm passage and the 0.45mm nozzle, I also drilled the 4mm dia bit where the PTFE liner goes and hit paydirt more than 2mm before I should have reached metal. Every time I had cleaned it before I had drilled out the main passages in the hope of removing the blockage while thr real culprit was waiting in the wingsby leadinglights - Printing
Hi raptik, If I am right, it is only necessary that there is nowhere for a plug of plastic to lodge where it is sticky. If there is no place then there is no problem, if there is a place but it is where the plastic is molten, again no problem - and the same if there is a void where it is too cool to be sticky. I am going to try to replace the PTFE with graphite loaded PEEK: This is nearly as slby leadinglights - Printing
What hot end? I have been having a vary similar sounding problem -including the appearance of the filament and think that I have found the reason. First check is if you can push filament through the hot end (idler removed from extruder and hot end at operating temperature) with the filament pinched between finger and thumb. If it is hard to push through then it may be a plug if plastic between thby leadinglights - Printing