I can't answer the Gregs question but I would suggest the Mendel90. It has everything you need to put it together and its Dibond sheets make it super square. You would save yourself big-time work buying this kit. My daughter and I put our kit together: she is thirteen and I am disabled so that is a testament to how well thought out and put together the kit is. I think you would not be sorry.by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
I would like to buy some Faberdashery filament and as a reference I am wondering how much came with the Mendel90 kit? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks ..by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
I could make a long post on the issues I have just gone through with PLA suddenly not sticking to glass after initially having great success but I can sum it up by saying a microfibre cloth I used to wipe the glass does not work and seems to deposit some tiny film on the surface that PLA will NOT stick to at all. I just about pulled my hair out till I discovered the cause . From Wikipedia: "Theby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Yes, it is possible. I am printing eyelets for the tip of a spring bobber for ice fishing at 0.15mm and just tried it at 0.1mm. Wipe/smear at edges is an issue but maybe with experience I can improve it. I think there is lots of room for that .by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Quotemuelli Phase 2 finished, project complete. Now everything on the printbed and around the nozzle is in bright light! Nice Job! I am amazed at the speed you are learning all the aspects of printing with the Mendel90. Printing that fan duct seems challenging.by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
@QuackingPlums Thank you. That's good information. I will go to a local Michael's craft store and see about getting 214mm square mirror glass or other glass and see if they can clip the corners at a 45 degree angle for the screws. Mirror glass might be good because it would be easy to see smudges or any grime on the surface? It would also let you see the print in the reflection? And bounce light?by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Thanks. It must be the SÖRLI. I am in Canada and I can't find that mirror on the IKEA Canada website. Maybe they don't have it. None of the other mirrors they have are suitable size without cutting.by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Great lights pictures both! @QuackingPlums: I am interested in what type of mirror you are using? It appears to have rounded edges and no clips. Is it just held on with Kapton tape? It looks good.by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Yes, I am not sure about the brass on steel rod squealing but it was quite bad. Maybe because we have a dry climate here? I found a bit of Mobil1 Synthetic oil in the garage and it has done wonders. No squealing for now (a little over ten trips up and down so far since oiling) and the ticking is gone too! I might put a few drops on the smooth rods for good measure.by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
I still could not eliminate the squeal so tested a small upper section of one threaded rod with Lithium grease and it helped immensely. I had used 3-in-1 oil initially but it dries up to fast. I don't have motor oil in the house so that is why I used the 3-in-1. Would it be OK just to use Lithium grease? I know the manual could have called for it but it didn't, thus I hesitate to put it on the enby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Yes, I had to. I assume you will need to recalibrate too. Mine wasn't changed by much but enough to require a new Z home number.by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
I just raised the X assembly and lowered it again onto the nuts being sure they went in all the way. Someone was helping me do this so I didn't see the orientation of the right nut before lifting the X carriage. But the ticking is back this AM but only when I lower the X carriage to make a print. If I jog it down with the Pronterface buttons 10mm at a time it doesn't tick. It is difficult to seeby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Quotenophead USB can transfer much faster but Repraps use a USB to serial converter rather than a direct connection to the ATMega, which is makes it slow, especially on Windows. You can make it a bit faster by reducing the serial port latency in device manager. Thank you, I will learn how to do this.by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
QuoteRyanMark Gary, you can use an "sd card extension cable" if you have trouble reaching the back. They are ~$10. Cool. Thank you! I looked that up and it solves 50% of my problem. I'll work on the other 50%. Best regards ..by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
We re-seated the nuts in the X ends and the ticking is completely gone and the squealing almost gone. The squealing that remains is coming from the left rod when it just begins to descend from the top. I will put the carriage to the top, loosen the Z coupling and re-tighten it to ensure the threaded rod is perfectly aligned with the motor shaft.by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
QuoteNilez Makes sense indeed, so no amount of oil will ever fix that then. Hoping to possibly hear from Chris on this. I should have checked the inside of the X end carefully before building but I didn't so can't say what it looked like. If there was a small nub or tiny imperfection in the surface it would cause the nut to sit un-level and thus the noise. How to fix this without disabling the mby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
QuoteFl0yd Watch the top of the threaded rod and see if it is hitting the bar clamp. That may be the clicking sound. Thanks, but there is plenty of space. And the rod is spinning perfectly true as far as I can see.by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
After re-checking that all the fixings in the X carriage area were tight I still have the gentle rattle. I can reproduce it to a lesser degree when sliding the X carriage manually. It's as though one of the tiny bearings in the linear bearing is rattling lose inside it. Aside from liking a perfectly smoothly running machine I wish it wasn't there because sometimes cracking or similar sounds areby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Yes, please post pics because I want to put lights on mine too ..by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Hi Nilez, Glad not to be the only one. Hmmm? Mine too right from the start. I suspect the nut is falling with each tick and hitting the thread below. Doesn't occur on the way up because of the constant weight of the X carriage. The squeal would be because the nut threads are binding on the rod thread. I suspect again that the nut is somehow un-level. Those are my guesses. Would like to hear otheby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Quotenophead I find that if I have the PC next to the printer and connected to the same mains extension and don't run anything too stressful on the PC, disable sleep and automatic updates then it is 100% reliable over USB for normal prints. For things with lots of tiny line segments, e.g. yoda, I need to use SD card to get the bandwidth. This is what I am doing too and found it has been workingby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
After homing and during the descent from the top to begin a print, the right X end makes a steady squealing or squeaking noise combed with a regular repeating 'tick-tick-tick ...' sound. The ticks are spaced roughly .5 seconds apart. I have applied sufficient machine oil to the threaded rod and some to the smooth rod. The sounds do not present when the carriage is moving up during the homing procby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Quoteneildarlow QuoteGarry BartschI wish I had epoxied those nuts into the X-carriage during the build. I have no urge to disassemble that now. You can use a pair of long-nose pliers behind the hex screw head and washer to ease the nut forward into the trap while you turn the hex screw with an Allen Key. Tighten the screw just enough to allow the fan casing to slide in behind the washer and youby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
I think I have exactly the same sound as you and I think I know why but haven't tried to fix it yet because I'm having too much fun playing with the printer. I have not fitted the fan and the screws that are sitting loose in the X-carriage are loose and vibrating. They are making noise. Maybe you have the same situation? I wish I had epoxied those nuts into the X-carriage during the build. I havby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
QuotenopheadAs you got your kit at a transition you should update the version of Marlin on the SD with the version on Github and then proceed as described in the manual. Thank you ... I was over-thinking the firmware update procedure. I thought I needed to do all that was listed at the bottom of the Github page but not ... this is all nice and smooth. Soon little Android fellow gets printed!by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
I'm not sure either! I'm new to this ... LOL. Here's a screen shot: Maybe gremlins ...by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Thank you Chris, soon I will have this all figured out. Best regards, Garryby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
When I connect to the printer I see: Marlin: 1.0.0 RC2 Last Updated: Sep 22 2010 09:01:58 | Author: nophead Free Memory: 12982 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232 The manual has: Marlin: 1.0.0 RC2 Last Updated: 2012-07-27 | Author: nophead Free Memory: 12982 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232 The only difference is the "Last Updated" date. Mine is older. Does this mean my firmware is outdated despite mine beingby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
QuoteQuackingPlums That step in the manual is just to prove that once you "home" the axes, that you can't then hit the end-stops in normal use due to the firmware limits. In normal printing your gcode will include a G28 command to home all axes before beginning the print so from there on in you should be fine. Sweet. Thank you! Curiously, so I understand theory and practice, I'm wondering wouldby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90