- 12 years agoI love it. Nice job!by Garry Bartsch - Look what I made!
Thank you Chris. Tonight my daughter and I soldered the resistors in place and tomorrow we will complete the PSU following your advice above. When I first read the manual this part was daunting but has proved to be simple. Phew! I can see the end and am so eager to begin printing with this great machine.by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
The manual states: "The reason for using all 12 wires is that the heater and motor currents cause a small voltage drop in the ground connection. Because it is connected to the mains earth inside the PSU the ground of the Melzi will be a little above earth potential. That causes current to flow in the USB lead to the PC and can disrupt the communication. Keeping the ground resistance as low as poby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Thank you for clarifying. Sometimes it takes a lot to get through my rather thick skull .by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
I have 3-IN-ONE® Multi-Purpose Oil (Link) and Jig-A-Loo (Link). Would the 3-In-ONE be OK? I would like to use the Jig-A-Loo because it dries and will not attract dust. It's is VERY slick.by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Yes the wires can lead inwards from the pads. > Perhaps that is better anyway. The current > arrangement stems from a previous revision of the > PCB which had smaller pads. Hi, I am sorry to bother you again but am I correct to read 'inward' above as 'outward' as the subsequent sentences suggest to me? I just doby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I don't understand why when you get to your 03 > picture you can just solder that tinned section to > the PCB? How is that any harder than soldering a > single thick wire? I am having trouble bending the group of wires as shown in the manual. I think I could do it more easily if the wires lead to the outside ratby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
I am finding it a challenge to line up the cables for soldering to the heated bed the way the manual shows. Can I do it another way? I would do it as per the other end of the cable. I.e. join a wire to each group of 12 (and one to extend each thermister wire). Then these would get wired to the heated bed. I mocked it up with scraps like this because I need practice anyway : Separate wires and buby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I would go with that one as if it has thicker > wires it is probably better quality. Great. Will do. > The thin orange is probably the sense wire. Does > it go to the same pin as a thicker orange? Yes, it does. > Just fit as many as you can in the Melzi and > insulate the rest. It is the total copper arby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
I have a power supply here: PSU Did not buy it for the project but thought that I might be able use it. But the wire count is different than the manual expects. I don't want to start chopping wires till I'm sure what I am doing . It has 5 red wires. The manual expects 7. It has 5 orange wires. The manual expects 4. One orange wire is smaller than the others. Do not have a brown sense wire.by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If you use the 28AWG hole of the wire strippers it > should just cut the insulation without cutting the > wires and it should just slide off. Found a stripper (22-30AWG Precise Cutter/Stripper) that goes to 30AWG and indeed the 28AWG works wonderfully. The insulation is cut cleanly and comes right off. This will maby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If you use the 28AWG hole of the wire strippers it > should just cut the insulation without cutting the > wires and it should just slide off. Rats, my stripper only goes to 26AWG. That's likely why I have trouble. Will try to find one locally before stripping the next wires.by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
I'm glad to be not the only one who found this problematic. Also it seems I have a tool like most of you are using: Klein Wire Stripper so that makes me happy. I can't be the 'poor workman who blames his tools'. LOL. But I want to be much more confident stripping these tiny ribbon cable wires so will try a trick. I will boil a cup of water in the microwave and dip 15mm of the wire into it for soby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
While test stripping separated individual strands of ribbon cable wire I notice it is easy to break off some individual conductor strands when attempting to remove a long section of insulation or if one tries to strip a second longish section of insulation in addition to an initial section. These broken strands pull away along with the section of insulation. How bad is this? Is the wire completeby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
bastard Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I try to document all of my projects as accurate > as possible. You can find more of my pictures in > my > gallery. > > Since yesterday evening I'm finished with the > building. Today after work I'll do all the > measurements. Tomorrow is calibrating day (it's a > holiday in Germany) and I hope toby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
I ended up soldering the wires in from the side (90 degrees to the prong). This way they clear the screw heads entirely without putting any stress on the wire due to bending it. Hope this is good. I suspect the joints will be fine but I'm new to electrical soldering so it could be bad job number two - LOL! If so please let me know. I'd rather get this right now than troubleshoot something trivialby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
neildarlow Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > is how I connected my > X-axis limit switch. Aha! That's what you meant. Thank you. A picture really is worth 1,000 words. (Well, maybe more than 1,000 words .)by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
neildarlow Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I looped the wires over and fed them into the > solder tags from above. Nice. Any chance you could post a picture?by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
QuackingPlums Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It looks like you have threaded the wire through > the holes in the switch prongs and twisted them > back on themselves? That is exactly what we did. I didn't know how to solder these switches so searched the web but the only example I could find was of the wires run through and twisted back on themselves. Qby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
We soldered the switch but when it is installed the lower wire is under the screw head and will be crushed when the screw is tightened. Do others make this mistake? The only solution seems to re-flow the solder and mount the wire to the prong at a very steep angle to avoid the screw. Before doing so I'd like to show the problem in case someone has a better solutions for this problem. Thank you.by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Hi Chris, Thank you for responding so quickly. That helps. Best regards, Garryby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Sorry if this is a really simple question. When setting up the X Motor Assembly I would like to leave the two wires running to the limit switch long to make soldering easier. Can I leave plenty extra? And then maybe coil it and tucking it away before attaching the limit switch to the housing? Somehow I would feel happier with longer wires. I would like to use a helping hands device to hold thiby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Great information. Thank you Chris. When I say they are not entirely uniform I mean they are not 'perfect'. Maybe I was expecting too much precision was required. After reading your explanation I'm sure all is fine with what I have done here.by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Thank you Chris.by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > My printing > style and Nopheads are different and result in > very different results. To use the settings I use > you can use the link in my signature to my > Calculator which will give you the numbers that I > use to get my results. Thank you, I am going to try as many methods of printing as possible. Soby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
I just am setting up the X Carriage Assembly and experienced some uncertainty understanding which way to twist the belt. I hope I am doing it correctly and attach an image for any comment. I know I would have benefited from a photo for this. Is this correct? Thank you.by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I don't think there is > anything critical about it. Thank you Chris. I didn't check "Follow Topic" so didn't receive your response - sorry. Before I found your response here I twisted them a bit more but since you comment there isn’t anything critical about it I will assume all is fine with the amount I settled on.by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > No. For my printers I get the correct outer and > inner dimensions all the time with Kisslicer and > Cura as well as when I used Slic3r a long time ago > (0.7.2b). But I also never print over 0.2mm and > rarely over 0.15mm layers. I also use a lot of > cooling and PLA. The issue does not seem to be > witby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
I've searched for the proper amount to twist stepper motor wires but haven't found a definitive answer. So I went ahead and twisted two wires together this much. Is this enough or should I twist them more? Thanks.by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
When sliced with software other than SF is this problem of inaccurately sized parts common to all RepRap printers, and if so, is there any hope these other slicers will improve their accuracy in the future?by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90