Quoted3delta3d Nice design but as you say the hiwin bearings are expensive. In my build the intitial design was with 15mm hiwin's as I use there products lots in automation projects and they work extremely well but after costing everything converted over to twin 12mm hardened chrome rods per upright and LM12LUU bearings. Maybe my next printer will use the hiwins but that will depend on findingby MrBaz - Delta Machines
You can get an adjustable D5 water pump. That should more than meet any needs you have.by MrBaz - Delta Machines
Quote3DRapidClone So is your design the effector and the carriages? It looks like a Kossel mini derivative. Good eye. Even though you probably won't believe me, I've been designing this since just after the first Kossel was released. I had already spec'd out the HIWIN railing before the mini was announced. My original source was very cheap, but they are now all out of stock. I had also alreaby MrBaz - Delta Machines
HIWIN linear rail for linear motion is correct. Cheapest place to purchase them is aliexpress. Much cheaper than you would think. I have the BOM listed under the files you can download. For what you get, the price is worth it.by MrBaz - Delta Machines
I realized I posted this earlier in the wrong place for some constructive criticism. Here is my Delta printer:by MrBaz - Delta Machines
I've decided just to upload my Delta printer design to Thingiverse for those who might like it.by MrBaz - Reprappers
Seems like you could test this yourself by using powdered graphite/graphyne/colloidal silver/powdered copper/etc. as the 'pigment' in a non-pigmented photopolymer.by MrBaz - Polymer Working Group
Keep brushing on acetone to a print and eventually the outer layer gets really soft and takes impressions from the brush or exaggerates layers lines/inclusions. I found this by accident and actually find them unattractive.by MrBaz - Look what I made!
Apparently, the Weld-On product line works just like acetone for abs. I believe weld-on #5 is pretty fluid and could be used for cold-vapor smoothing.by MrBaz - General
Definitely uneven extrusion. Possibly wrong steps/mm What is your print speed? Get an IR/laser temp gauge.by MrBaz - Printing
Old school CO2 tube lasers are the cheapest and easiest. The IR wavelength they output is perfect for even plain natural nylon powder. Other lasers will need to have the nylon powder doped with carbon dust or laser toner in order for the different wavelength to be absorbed correctly.by MrBaz - Powder Printing and Selective Laser Sintering
Thermal epoxy. If you want something a little less permanent, mix in some thermal grease with the thermal epoxy.by MrBaz - Safety & Best Practices
What kind of extruder are you running specifically? It really sounds like the extruder isn't smoothly extruding.by MrBaz - Printing
QuoteA2 A very interesting development. Possibly you have coated the PLA with a resin that performs as a lubricant. What color, mfg, and amount of surface area did you coat the natural PLA? QuoteDear Natalie, Permanent inks, like the classic Sharpie, contain three main ingredients: colorant, carrier (solvent) and resin (polymer). For permanence, the colorant of choice is pigments (as opposedby MrBaz - Printing
OK. Weird and very interesting development. In an effort to simply 'tint' my natural/clear PLA plastic during a print, I realized I could print just fine. I tried oiling the filament with canola oil, no dice. I tried wiping the filament with pledge dust wipes, still no dice. Yet, when I take a permanent marker to the filament in order to tint the clear plastic, I can print flawlessly -- evenby MrBaz - Printing
QuoteA2 QuoteMrBaz I get jams even when I am manually pushing filament through. At first, I am easily able to push filament through, then it just gets hard and harder to push filament through until it completely jams. I find this quote perplexing. Because you can push the filament through at a high rate, enough so that heat doesn't migrate up the filament to cause a "plug" jam. I think you shoby MrBaz - Printing
Natural PLA. I've input the correct measurements into my slicer, and my extruder is a spring-pressure ball bearing type. I'm using 1.75mm filament.by MrBaz - Printing
Yes, Mk7 hotend. I can switch back to ABS and print flawlessly.by MrBaz - Printing
I'm using a ressurected Thing-O-Matic Mk7. I've modded it so much it is rediculous. It prints ABS GREAT! No problems there. I've recently been wanting to print in PLA, but have only been able to print 1 thing...a vase...barely. I keep getting jams no matter what temps I'm running, and no matter what amount of airflow I force across the 'heat gap' in the Mk7 hotend. At first I tried the poby MrBaz - Printing
From all of the other posts about scanning a 3D object, I have yet to find anyone who has recommended this software. I just stumbled across it and thought it was pretty awesome. It has a very steep learning curve, but works fantastically. I know it is quite pricey, but so are most of the other 3D laser scanning setups I've seen posted here. The basic edition is actually quite reasonably priceby MrBaz - 3D Scanners, Book Scanners, and Optics
Sounds like a extruder stepper motor is binding or having a REALLY hard time moving that filament. What extruder are you using? Check your vref/current being supplied to the motor. 30mm/s with 1.75mm ABS should be nothing. I had a similar issue with the stock Makerbot MK7 extruder. It would 'thump' and not put out enough filament. I replaced the extruder setup with a spring-force ball beariby MrBaz - General
If you really want to get into 3D printing and really understand all the parts and their significance, you should take the time to do as much research as possible and not rely on people in forums to spoon-feed you everything. In the 3D printing industry, you pretty much get what you pay for. There are plenty of printers better than a Prusa, but what are you willing to pay? Almost any printerby MrBaz - General
Sorry I don't have anything useful to add to your search, but maybe you can help me with mine? I'm trying to find an affordable laser marking head & controller for up to a 90W CO2 laser. So far, my research has lead me to extremely pricey marking heads ($10k+). I wouldn't think a UV laser would be great for white plastics. I thought they have to be pigmented in order to absorb the energyby MrBaz - Laser Cutter Working Group
I'm on a quest to find an affordable laser marking head/controller solution. Anyone have any leads or sources on something like this? I've looked into a couple commercial outfits, but they are quite expensive. Maybe I just haven't found the right company yet. I'm open to a high-quality DIY attempt as well. Oh, and I plan on using a 40W - 90W CO2 laser for this project.by MrBaz - Laser Cutter Working Group
QuoteVDX ... the scanner card is normally used for show lasers: The galvos too ... similar to this set: Actually I'm programming the driver-DLL's for BeamConstruct to activate this types of scanner cards. This 'toys' are mainly for testing and some special ideas for the future -- I have some professional galvo-heads with drivers from an old SLA-printer and two NdYAG-markers, but this are sysby MrBaz - Powder Printing and Selective Laser Sintering
QuoteVDX ... I'm actually developing a galvo-scanning system based on BeamConstruct, that should be remarkable cheaper -- but can last some months until first presentations, that are planned for March on the METAV fair in Germany ... Care to share any info on your hardware?by MrBaz - Powder Printing and Selective Laser Sintering
Quotetjb1 QuoteMrBaz Quotetjb1 QuoteMrBaz Quotetjb1 I find Aqua Net hairspray works very good with PLA and ABS, just cover the bed lightly before every print. Takes just a couple seconds and don't have to deal with brushes or tape. But you have to worry about highly flammable sticky hairspray getting over everything.... I've been spraying it on the beds with no covers on anything for almost aby MrBaz - Reprappers
Quotetjb1 QuoteMrBaz Quotetjb1 I find Aqua Net hairspray works very good with PLA and ABS, just cover the bed lightly before every print. Takes just a couple seconds and don't have to deal with brushes or tape. But you have to worry about highly flammable sticky hairspray getting over everything.... I've been spraying it on the beds with no covers on anything for almost a year now. I would tby MrBaz - Reprappers
I've been trying to find an affordable solution to a laser marking head, or at least a capable laser galvo setup that could be used for SLS printing. So far, the cheapest marking head I found was $10k without the controller. I think this is the only thing holding back the affordable consumer-based SLS printers at the moment (besides the patents which are expiring next month!). Is there a capablby MrBaz - Powder Printing and Selective Laser Sintering