here is a rework video for those chinese clones. I have been running mine with no issues since doing the rework.by jaguarking11 - General
Direct drive does not have enough torque IMHO. I was using the airtripper design and it is a good extruder. But not exactly high speed. I wanted a geared extruder and designed one. I was not happy with the lash on it. Even though I was using premade gears and not printed ones. Now I run my 2:1 extruder that is belt drive, its much more compact than my previous geared extruder and uses some nice pby jaguarking11 - General
Cura here. I just prefer it, after some time I simply got used to it and it does everything I need. Haven't had a single piece I could not slice with it. Has all the options I need for the stuff I print. Also slicing speed is phenomenal.by jaguarking11 - General
I tried it in the past. I could not remember the outcome.... Woke up dazed and confused 3 days later...... Sorry I had to...by jaguarking11 - Safety & Best Practices
I have a modicum v1 for sale. It is the last unit of the original batch I made. Sold 8 of them so far to happy customers. If anyone is interested. Here is the e-bay link for it. Here is the youtube video explaining the extruder. If you want to build your own. - Thank you guys. Bruno M.by jaguarking11 - For Sale
Stringing is a function of the whole system. A bowden extruder is capable of some good quality prints with little to no stringing. The thing that most users seem to fail to acount for is the acumulated slop in the extruder. I only retract 3.5mm and still get almost no stringing on my printer. The accumulated slack I am talking about stems from the fittings, the actual tube and the different tranby jaguarking11 - General
Quotejanpenguin I have one question about the hardware. Are two line lasers and a camera enough to scan big objects such as human or motorcycle? Regards, Hughe Not really, the noise introduced is too great for such a thing. If your looking at scanning something along those lines, get a second hand kinect and software such as Skanect or Reconstructme.by jaguarking11 - 3D Scanners, Book Scanners, and Optics
The question arises yet again. Why cool the hot end at all?by jaguarking11 - General
I have done scans with the kinect (xbox360 version) It functions nicely for body scans and busts. However the software has to be carefuly chosen. I have played with skanect as well as reconstruct me. Skanect worked nicely with the free licence to create a few busts. However it is touchy and you really need a rotating platform. Reconstructme does not run very nicely on my machine as it really needby jaguarking11 - 3D Scanners, Book Scanners, and Optics
The scans can be stiched together quite nicely using meshlab or similar. You don't really need a hinged camera, having the camera at a set location works nicely with this scanner. You can rotate the object and do multiple scans of the object to achieve similar results. From what I can gather just about every scanner in the market including the ones that have the camera mounted on a stepper takingby jaguarking11 - 3D Scanners, Book Scanners, and Optics
On my delta I use ramps and marlin as a firmware. IMHO there are limitations but not as severe as one might think. I have printed at 150mm/s on my printer and honestly at those speeds the weight of my moving parts was more of a concern than the cpu.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
I think your going to need to test it out. You wont burn out your motors if you plug them in backwards. I would say connect all the axis motors in one direction and connect it to a pc, once you do so test it out using something like pronterface, if you have them hooked up ok then your golden if the printer is moving backwards when you jog it then flip them on the ramps or in the firmware.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
Set zhop to .5mm or so. It should help a bunch. Its under cura advanced settings. Also what speed are you printing? Have you checked the filament diameter? Set the average of 5m in 10cm increments in cura diameter.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
now the main question.... Do i need an SSR to control the wood burning stove under my heat bed? It puts out around 20K BTU....... 200C should be within reach...by jaguarking11 - General
This is my update. My scanner is complete. Check it out. - > Also youtube video goodness. - >by jaguarking11 - 3D Scanners, Book Scanners, and Optics
My extruder is around 60cm long, maybe a bit less. The extruder is mounted a hair lower than 1/2 way through the printer. The print radius is about 330mm, with a heigh of almost 400mm...... I think a 50CM bowden can be done if I mounted my extruder closer to the body of the printer.by jaguarking11 - Mechanics
Or you can get yourself a cheap windows 8.1 tablet and run octoprint on that. Like this tablet.... 70USD for the tablet, or less than 50USD open box. Would work fine methinks....by jaguarking11 - General
I have been contemplating running printed bearings on alu and copper piping. I am thinking about a design that uses grease entrapment to glide. One thing I can say is that no matter how acurate your printer is, you will been some finishing on the 3d printed parts if you want to get that extra 100micron out of them.by jaguarking11 - General
I use a piece of paper, and have ordered some feeler gauges. I shoot for about 200micron. I use a thick layer of abs good in the 100-150 micron thickness. This ensures a warp free print.by jaguarking11 - General
I am selling another one of my extruders if interested go here ->by jaguarking11 - For Sale
I have not completely enclosed my delta just yet. However just draping some clothing over most of the openings I managed a temp of 40C with a 100C bed and a 150w heater. It took about 15 minutes to reach 40c with gaping holes. I insulated my printer with a thin layer of cork material. This was at 20c ambient temp. If the temps become too erratic I will add another layer of cork insulation to theby jaguarking11 - General
I see no reason to not use a server psu. While cheap used. They are one trick pony with usually 50+ amps 12v rails.by jaguarking11 - General
You need a 2mm. Bit. Drill again.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
If you need lubrificantion then most likely have some spot that has too much friction. Or a bad extruder. No lubricant ever on my printer. It's possible your going too fast too. One more thing concerning software. Cura is very easy to use. I personally see no need for other slicer.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
Well the electronics are working. I skipped the resistors for the lasers as my lasers operate at 5v anyway. They seem to be constant voltage regulated and not constant amperage regulated. Here is another blog entry regarding the 3d scanner. And here is the video regarding said scanner and initial tests.by jaguarking11 - 3D Scanners, Book Scanners, and Optics
I am using abs. The Environment is annoyingly dry Actualy and the roll is less than 1 week old. I will measure my filament as well. The bumps are less than 1/10 of a mil. Can't feel them by hand but barely visible via naked eye. However macro lens picks them up.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 The retraction speed setting is irrelevant as long as it is high enough, because over a short length such as 3.5mm it will not reach that speed because of limited acceleration. For example, with 2000mm/sec^2 acceleration and 3.5mm retraction length, the peak retraction speed will be just under 120mm/sec. What matters is the acceleration setting. Too low and the retraction will be slow.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
I am wondering what retraction speeds do you guys use to minimize oozing and bumps. I am running 200mm/s with 3.5mm retraction. With that said, oozing is nearly non existent, but I have some very very fine micro bumps on my curved prints. At this point I may change my retraction speed to 250mm/s to 300mm/s. The extruder at this point should have the same retract characteristics as direct drive bby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
One thing to note. The original STL files are not prime time ready for printing. The motor holder would not print right or slice right. I used your source files, removed your support and exported out the STL from freecad, then I ran it through netfabb for clean up and it printed out beautifully with slicer generated support. I will be printing out the rest of the parts this weekend. Thank you fby jaguarking11 - 3D Scanners, Book Scanners, and Optics
The simple answer is NOOO. You wont find a stratasys comercial machine that does not need calibration after 1000 prints, forget finding one in the consumer grade market. If you want something that precise, built yourself a beefy cnc and put a hot end on it. run flex tubes with a timer to grease the bearings and runs on a timer. It will come close, but not quite 1000's of prints.by jaguarking11 - General