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Re: How to reduce noise on my G&C CoreXY? - 8 years ago

Those are the things I've tried on the X-Y motors - they distorted too much to be useful, due to belt tension. The noise isn't coming from the extruder though - it's a combination of the X-Y motors and everything around them. Some additional info: I have also played with motor currents, acceleration values and max instant speed changes values. none had much effect on the noise.

by David J - CoreXY Machines

How to reduce noise on my G&C CoreXY? - 8 years ago

My G&C CoreXY printer has always been a little noisy, but since fitting a direct extruder and its stepper motor to the carriage, the noise has become more obvious. I think the increased carriage mass has affected everything, resulting in a lot more resonance and buzzing. I have been making some parts for this printer on my Prusa i3 and the difference in noise levels is very noticeable!

by David J - CoreXY Machines

Re: Repetier-Host crashes randomly on Linux Mint - 8 years ago

Linux Mint 18 now has the fixed kernel - I have been using R-H quite a lot lately, with only 1 random shutdown (as opposed to the frequent failures I used to get on Mint 17.3).

by David J - Repetier

Re: G&C Printer - 8 years ago

QuotefilipeCampos looks simple and clean, good design. with a 1.9degree motor and 1/32 steppers the step per mm is +/- 190. Start with this value and make the 10mm test to get a more precise value. Thanks - I just wanted a starting point before I started the proper calibration. It helps to be reasonably close to the correct value before I start!

by David J - CoreXY Machines

Re: G&C Printer - 8 years ago

Filipe, Just one more question (in 2 parts!): what steps/mm are you using for your Chinese extruder? And is that for a 1.8 or 0.9 degree extruder motor? I'm just looking for a starting value for steps/mm before I start calibrating the extrusion. My motor mount is just about finished, although untested as I'm waiting for some longer fixing screws for the carriage. I'll put up some details on

by David J - CoreXY Machines

Re: G&C Printer - 8 years ago

Oh dear... after all your hard work, when I got the extruder parts in the post I found out that the hole on the swinging arm has an M6 thread - and I have a bowden coupler with the correct thread! At least it now keeps the adjustment screw working properly. Thanks for your efforts anyway Filipe.

by David J - CoreXY Machines

Re: G&C Printer - 8 years ago

They are printing OK this time. Thanks Filipe. ANOTHER UPDATE: mirroring the file results in a reversed thread in the hole! No matter - the original was what I wanted (I just checked).

by David J - CoreXY Machines

Re: G&C Printer - 8 years ago

By sheer luck, it was the correct side for me - I think. I'll print one of each to be sure! (my extruder parts should arrive in the post tomorrow).

by David J - CoreXY Machines

Re: G&C Printer - 8 years ago

I still had to run a Netfabb repair on it, although I couldn't see where the problem was. However, this time the part seems to be whole, with no unexpected gaps - I'm just about to try and print it.

by David J - CoreXY Machines

Re: Using a smaller NEMA17 motor on a direct extruder? - 8 years ago

I'm sure the Titan is a fine extruder - but it would cost me well in excess of £60 when you add the accessories I'd need, post and packing, then VAT (sales tax). That's without the cost of a motor. I'd prefer to experiment for a while before I go down that route, especially as I already have a motor (though standard size) and Mk7 & Mk8 wheels.

by David J - General

Re: G&C Printer - 8 years ago

Filipe, I will be making my own mount for the extruder, so centring isn't an issue - the output of the extruder will be directly over the input to the hot-end. I can't fit your printed extruder as I have other stuff in the way! (I have mounted a cable chain on one side of the carriage, and it's where the motor will need to go). I'll go and download that part now... thanks for the quick service

by David J - CoreXY Machines

Re: G&C Printer - 8 years ago

Hi Filipe, I'm still playing around with this printer! It continues to work well, but I've decided to try a direct extruder rather than bowden. I'm going to use the same aluminium mechanism that you used in your duel extruder setup - but just one of them. I was going to use the same plastic parts on the swinging arm of the extruder (the parts that hold the bowden coupler) but I'm having some

by David J - CoreXY Machines

Re: Tripteron Implementation - 8 years ago

QuoteApsu Quote It would be interesting to mount a dial indicator on the central part, to see if it can maintain an even height over the bed. Not sure if you mean if it's possible in theory or if the particular material choice and part tolerance I've ended up with can do it I wouldn't be so spiteful! No, I just meant that it would only be of any use as a 3D printer if it could move in a flat

by David J - Look what I made!

Re: Using a smaller NEMA17 motor on a direct extruder? - 8 years ago

I hadn't thought about NEMA14 motors... yet another factor to consider! o_lampe, I understand what you're saying about the drive gear - better leverage - I have one of each, so I can choose the Mk8 for extra 'pushing power'.

by David J - General

Re: Negative Space problem - 8 years ago

I think that you need to re-calibrate the extruder - it's not 100mm of filament coming OUT of the nozzle, it's 100mm of new filament going IN to the top of the extruder. Look here: RepRap

by David J - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Using a smaller NEMA17 motor on a direct extruder? - 8 years ago

It's size rather than the weight, although any reduction is always welcome. I only need the motor as I've already got the extruder body printed and ready to use - but I'll also have a look at the Titan in case my extruder doesn't work!

by David J - General

Using a smaller NEMA17 motor on a direct extruder? - 8 years ago

I am planning to replace the remote bowden extruder on my CoreXY printer with a direct, ungeared one. This will use either a Mk7 or Mk8 gear (not yet decided), and it would push the 1.75mm filament down about 5cm of bowden tube into the E3Dv6 hot-end below. It would be easier if I could fit a smaller NEMA17 stepper on the extruder, mostly to get extra clearance, but also to reduce weight (saves

by David J - General

Re: Tripteron Implementation - 8 years ago

The only significant disadvantage I can see so far is the space it takes on the bench with its "elbows" out. A bit like sitting next to a selfish eater at a dining table... It would be interesting to mount a dial indicator on the central part, to see if it can maintain an even height over the bed.

by David J - Look what I made!

Re: ready to take the plunge.. need help choosing - 8 years ago

And the advantage of a Prusa i3 for a beginner is that they are easy to understand when thing don't work properly - if the head doesn't go left and right, there's just 1 obvious motor and circuit to investigate, and the same for back and forth (X and Y axes). The vertical axis has 2 motors, but they're wired together so can be treated as one. They are also mechanically simple - and as a beginne

by David J - General

Re: What CAD software? POLL - 8 years ago

I had major problems with FreeCAD - but they may have been of my own making! For example, I created an object with holes in particular places, and that worked well. But later on I wanted to change the shape and position of some of those holes, the whole model broke and I was unable to fix it. Someone on the FreeCAD forum fixed it for me, but at that point I'd lost heart. My impression is that

by David J - General

Re: What CAD software? POLL - 8 years ago

I also use OpenSCAD and I find it very easy - but I do have a background in writing code, HTML and so on, plus a history of writing documents in LaTeX, so structured languages are not a problem for me. I also have a knack for visualising shapes in my head, so find it relatively easy to translate them into OpenSCAD code. I also love the ease with which I can go back and modify designs if necessa

by David J - General

Re: Having a problem with auto-levelling - 8 years ago

David, Out of interest, just how much 'out of level' should the Duet/IR sensor be able to compensate for? I haven't measured my bed on the CoreXY yet but I'm reasonably confident that it's a lot flatter than the identical bed on my Prusa i3, which also has one of your IR Z probes but which is controlled by a RAMPS board. That one gives me consistent results, to the point where I don't even hav

by David J - Duet

Re: Having a problem with auto-levelling - 8 years ago

My bed is a glass plate on top of a 3mm aluminium plate heater. I'll put my dial gauge on it tomorrow and work out just how level it really is (once I've worked out how to mount it on the carriage). Since fiddling with the IR sensor I've managed to make a few nice prints, so I must be quite close to a solution.

by David J - Duet

Re: Having a problem with auto-levelling - 8 years ago

OK, tried that test - first of all, the Z-axis motor is moving slightly during printing. Here are the results (in the order: position / pre-G32 command / post-G32 command) P0 / 1.57 /1.57 P1 / 1.76 / 1.53 P2 / 1.09 / 1.61 P3 / 0.61 / 1.64 P4 / 1.60 / 1.60 P2 and P3 are on the side where the nozzle is too low. And... while I was running this test I noticed that the black component (phototransi

by David J - Duet

Re: Having a problem with auto-levelling - 8 years ago

Thanks David, I'll give that a try and report back. (and I'll also add that F parameter - I have been caught by that!)

by David J - Duet

Having a problem with auto-levelling - 8 years ago

I'm having a problem with auto-levelling - the probing sequence runs but the printer just continues as if it hadn't happened, resulting in the first layer being too thin on one side (almost non-existent) and too thick on the other (especially when the nozzle gets to the point when it's far enough over the bed to release the back-pressure). My bed isn't precisely level (but it's close) - certainl

by David J - Duet

Re: Power Supply not starting? - 8 years ago

Something doesn't look right in the second photo - could you take a close-up photo of your power supply wiring?

by David J - General

Re: Printing with PETG - 8 years ago

QuotePDBeal QuoteDavid J I use 230-240C for the nozzle, and 60-70C for the bed. I also print at half the speed I use for other filaments, otherwise it doesn't come out very well. Do you change anything with your retraction settings? When I print, I sometimes get a lot of very tiny strings, almost hair like, but I didn't change any speeds only temps. Sorry I haven't replied sooner - this forum

by David J - Reprappers

Re: Chain Link Fail - 8 years ago

I had a similar problem trying to make similar parts. Try turning the pieces around so that the curved part faces forward, so that the air from the fan hits it as soon as the nozzle moves on.

by David J - Printing

Re: Printing with PETG - 8 years ago

I use 230-240C for the nozzle, and 60-70C for the bed. I also print at half the speed I use for other filaments, otherwise it doesn't come out very well.

by David J - Reprappers