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Here's what I made, here's a photo, and here's a link to the [[page]] on RepRaps wiki!
Re: Heatbed mosfet @30A, 12V - 8 years ago
Quotedc42 The Power Expander from reprap.me is another possibility but I suspect that the connector and PCB traces may not be rated for 30A. The PCB traces are quite wide - but I've only used mine for around 12A, so I can't be 100% certain of the maximum current-carrying capacity. As for the connectors - I didn't fit them, soldering my wires directly to the pads instead, as recommended by repraby David J - Controllers
Re: Slic3r on Linus Mint 18 - 8 years ago
That's a worry - I'll watch this thread with interest....by David J - General
Re: PTFE tube popping out of e3d v6 hotend - 8 years ago
Sometimes the end of my PTFE tube gets a bit scratched up and loses it's smoothness - I cut off the last 1cm and push the remainder back in, and there it stays.by David J - General
Re: Finished Printjob script? printdone.g? - 8 years ago
I had the same issue - see how I fixed it here. (or how I was told to fix it, anyway) I used the " ;E " solution - see that thread for the explanation.by David J - Duet
Re: Taking 5v from a 12v power supply - 8 years ago
Linear regulators such as the 7805 have one significant problem; the more voltage you have to lose the hotter they get, especially when you have to take significant current. You end up requiring a huge heatsink to get rid of the surplus energy. The alternative is to get a switched-mode unit, like those from Pololu. They are reasonably cheap, available in many countries, and run almost cold whiby David J - Controllers
Re: e3d v6 help - 8 years ago
I'm a great E3D supporter - but the 30mm fans they supply are not great. But in all fairness to them, it's incredibly hard to find small fans that work well for long periods. I have fitted a shroud to my E3Dv6 that uses a 40mm fan, but even that one is starting to get a little noisy - it's not going to last a great deal longer. It's not E3D's fault - it's just that all of these little fans areby David J - Reprappers
Re: Another little problem - using macros from gcode - 8 years ago
Quotedc42 David, 1. Are you certain that you called the macro file exactly "Z_240", with no ".g" or ".gcode" extension? 2. Does the macro file show up in the list of user macros in DuetWebControl or in PanelDue if you have one? If so, does it work? DWC and PanelDue both use commands of the form "M98 P/macros/filename" to execute user macros. Yes, on both counts.by David J - Duet
Re: Another little problem - using macros from gcode - 8 years ago
Late update: I tried M98 P/macros/Z_240 (and M98 P../macros/Z_240, just for the hell of it) without success. The ;E parameter certainly does work, so I shall continue with that from now on (it makes the code easier to read anyway). Thanks again.by David J - Duet
Re: Another little problem - using macros from gcode - 8 years ago
Fair enough - I thought it would be a syntax issue. I'll try both solutions and see which suits me the best. Many thanks.by David J - Duet
Re: Having difficulty printing with Duet board via USB - 8 years ago
Quotedc42 - All the variations of what? - and what do you mean by "almost works, but not 100%"? Sorry for the terse comments - I was getting annoyed! Mostly with Pronterface and Repetier-Host though. They offer very little in the way of configuring the port's protocols and general configuration. As for 'almost works' I meant that sometimes the printer behaves as though it's happy with what itby David J - Duet
Another little problem - using macros from gcode [SOLVED] - 8 years ago
Originally I included the following 2 lines in my closing gcode in the slicer: M82 ; absolute mode G1 X0 Y0 Z240 ; home X & Y, drop the print bed This dropped the bed on my printer so that I could easily get at the print. The trouble is, the Duet web interface reported the layer count as 5 x 240 = 1200, instead of the right number for the part. So I decided to comment out these 2 lines aby David J - Duet
Re: Having difficulty printing with Duet board via USB - 8 years ago
Hmm... tried all the variations (there aren't many offered) but with no success. It seems as though I have an "almost" connection - it almost works, but not 100%. Has anyone actually had success running a printer with a Duet board from a Linux machine via USB?by David J - Duet
Having difficulty printing with Duet board via USB - 8 years ago
I have a CoreXY printer with a Duet 0.6 board. This works very nicely over the ethernet connection, but I have never been able to print successfully by using Pronterface or Repetier-host over USB. My Linux Mint 17.3 machine knows where the printer's USB connection is, I have permission to read and write to it, and I can connect successfully from either of those programs.Originally I had problemby David J - Duet
Re: New RepRapFirmware release 1.12-dc42 - 8 years ago
Can the temp limit be over-ridden? It's just that E3D specify a temp of 285C when tightening the nozzle. Hold on - I should RTFM (or original post, anyway) - the M143 command allows me to set a different limit!by David J - Duet
Re: Is there a way to break STL in individual parts' files? - 8 years ago
I have used Meshmixer to take parts out of a multi-part STL file, with no problems. It is also free...by David J - Slic3r
Re: New RepRapFirmware release 1.12-dc42 - 8 years ago
Quotedc42 Thanks again for the feedback. FWIW the micro USB A/B connector on some Duet 0.6 boards don't give a reliable connection. I have to waggle the USB lead connected to one of my Duet 0.6 boards to make it work. The micro USB B connectors on Panel Due. Duet 0.8.5 and Duet NG are more reliable. I use a very short extension lead between the Duet and the outside panel - it's about 10cm long,by David J - Duet
Re: New RepRapFirmware release 1.12-dc42 - 8 years ago
USB update: I plugged the printer in, and all the right messages came up in dmesg and lsusb. Tried printing, didn't really seem to have a solid connection - then changed the USB lead to a known good one, and everything sprang into life... crummy old USB lead now in the bin. I remembered why I didn't use USB with this duet-powered printer - I have never managed to make it work properly: it doesby David J - Duet
Re: New RepRapFirmware release 1.12-dc42 - 8 years ago
Quotedc42 Thanks for the feedback. Can you still connect to the Duet using USB too? The current version of DWC is 1.11. I'm printing something just now - I'll try USB later (it's not something I use very often...) BTW: uploading the G-code file was 3x faster - about 600Kb/s or so.by David J - Duet
Re: New RepRapFirmware release 1.12-dc42 - 8 years ago
David, I'm a bit late to this party, but I've just updated to 1.12a successfully on my Linux Mint 17.3 64-bit machine. Seems happy to connect to the web server without complaint, and will try to print something soon. What's the current version for Chris's web server code? Cheers, Davidby David J - Duet
Re: DRY FILMENT STORAGE - 8 years ago
One problem would be when you take the filament out of the refrigerator into a warm room - you would immediately get a load of condensation all over it.by David J - Printing
Re: slic3r crashing all the time (1.2.9) - 8 years ago
I might have a go at that...by David J - Slic3r
Re: slic3r crashing all the time (1.2.9) - 8 years ago
I'm getting frequent crashes - on Linux Mint 17.3, 64-bit, rather than Windows. It usually happens when loading a STL file... once it's loaded, things work OK. I have already limited the threads to 1, with no change.by David J - Slic3r
Re: What CoreXY design to choose? - 8 years ago
Quotecozmicray Hey lets hear it for the 3D printing Geriatrics (an aged person) We can print our own walker and wheelchair parts! QuoteDavidJ Note: Like him I'm a '60-something' tinkerer who loves building things: Quotedeckingman I only got into 3d printing about a year ago (I'm a 60 something carpenter) Grasshoppas -- listen to the sage --- unless they haven't taken their medication Ignoby David J - CoreXY Machines
Re: What CoreXY design to choose? - 8 years ago
Amoniak - are you thoroughly confused yet? I think deckingman is saying the same as me - pick a simple design, have a go at building it, make some mistakes and try again (and again), and gain experience as you go. Go 'advanced' later on. Note: Like him I'm a '60-something' tinkerer who loves building things: I knew nothing about 3D printing 2 years ago, and since then I've had a lot of fun byby David J - CoreXY Machines
Re: What CoreXY design to choose? - 8 years ago
When I said a 'kit' for the SmartRapCore - I meant a kit of the plastic parts. These are the bits you can't make for yourself, or just buy off the shelf. These kits of plastic parts are reasonably cheap, e.g. smartfriendz. All the rest can be bought here and there, as needed. So - a bag of plastic parts, 5 MDF panels that you can make yourself from stuff bought from your local DIY store, 4 steby David J - CoreXY Machines
Re: What CoreXY design to choose? - 8 years ago
I should have added that I built a delta between the Prusa and the CoreXY - couldn't get on with it, found it much too fussy to operate. The parts from the delta went into the CoreXY... ...I don't recommend a delta as a first printer - far too much mathematical magic in those things!by David J - CoreXY Machines
Re: What CoreXY design to choose? - 8 years ago
That's a bit harsh - many people would appreciate some guidance when starting in 3D printing, if only knowing which sort of printer to avoid, or which kit manufacturer ships junk and/or has poor support. Telling people to learn 3D printing before building a printer is also poor advice, as many people (including myself) have no easy access to a printer unless they build one themselves. My adviceby David J - CoreXY Machines
Re: Heated bed wont maintain more then ~100C - 8 years ago
I generally print ABS with a bed temp of 100C - I very rarely use 110C. This is with a Mk3 ali heatbed, insulated underneath.by David J - Printing
Re: filament unrivaled off roll - 8 years ago
I don't think I could deal with a new spool with just one hand... sometimes I can barely do it with two! A new spool usually comes with the end of the filament taped down, or woven through a couple of holes in the spool rim. Do you undo that before you mount the spool, or after? I usually wait until the spool is on and I'm ready to thread the filament before undoing it. Once the spool is starby David J - Mechanics
Re: Duet development news - 8 years ago
Alternatively you could use a little 5v regulator like this one from Polou. Cheap, efficient and runs cool, even at full current. They also do 2.5A ones for a little extra money.by David J - Duet