The polished steel sheets weren't stainless, were they? I only ask because some forms of stainless are not magnetic...by David J - Reprappers
Quotedougal1957 Also if you have dc's latest firmware (1.09a or later) then M999 S4321 will erase the board and then reset it ready for flashing. Not tried that yet but will do as soon as he releases 1.09b which is due imenently apparently. Doug Sounds scary! I'm now on 1.09a - maybe I'll try that command for the next update.by David J - Controllers
Quotedougal1957 Or even M999 will reset the board That is also worth knowing!by David J - Controllers
Thanks David. I've been switching everything off & on again, which does the job, but which is a bit of a PITA. Emergency Stop is a lot easier!by David J - Controllers
Sometimes, when using my delta with its Duet board, I have to make a change to the config.g file. I use the web control page to upload the edited file - do the changes take effect automatically as soon as the file is uploaded, or do I have to do something extra? (I can't easily press the reset button on the Duet board as it's tucked into the heart of the printer)by David J - Controllers
Well, you were correct again! Printer now printing reasonably well (although I still think that the bowden tube & wires are influencing the effector in some positions).by David J - Delta Machines
Unlikely - although I have tried thin aluminium foil underneath 3mm glass and managed to trigger the sensor. Unfortunately the sensor was almost touching the glass! This experiment came from something I read on here - the sensors work best with ferrous metals, just about work with aluminium sheet, but will work quite well with aluminium foil - something to do with the way that the magnetic fluxby David J - Reprappers
Incidentally, during my playing with this problem, I may have found something that may be causing my effector to tilt when doing auto bed compensation - the bowden tube and associated wiring puts a lot of pressure on the effector in some locations, particularly when it's near the Z tower. This is the region where it's getting wrong readings that result in it printing thinly on that side. Investby David J - Delta Machines
QuoteCammi David J , change your Z height in the config file. it might too high that why your nozzle is dragging on the bed when probing. That's what I was trying to do - but likely that I was doing it wrong!by David J - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 Hi David, you need to use a negative Z parameter in the G31 command if the trigger point is below the bed. I convinced myself that it should be positive - it's been a long day! I'll give that a try tomorrow...by David J - Delta Machines
I've been playing around with the effector on my CherryPi, trying to do some diagnostics on the problems I encountered when using dc42's IR Z-probe (nothing wrong with the probe, it looks like my effector's tilting and messing up the readings). I thought I'd try a 'zero X/Y displacement' probe to see if the results differ. The temporary replacement effector is from the design by maso (Thingiverby David J - Delta Machines
I have black paper under my glass bed - works very nicely. The paper also reduces the risk of cracking the glass when it's clamped down onto my aluminium heated bed (if the bed ever gets scratched, or there's grit on it).by David J - Delta Machines
Tried again this afternoon - followed exactly the same procedure as yesterday and (after a few minor issues) the thing worked precisely as it should. I have no idea what I did differently... but I did put a glass sheet over the heated bed, and I think the IR probe was a lot happier with that rather than the previous 'kapton on aluminium' surface. Maybe it was getting the wrong sort of reflectioby David J - RAMPS Electronics
Ever have one of those days when you can't get something to work right, even though you're sure you're doing everything correctly? I'm having one of those days... My equipment is: Prusa i3 (much modified) Arduino/RAMPS 1.4 Marlin (configuration.h file attached) Originally this setup was working very well, using an inductive probe for self-levelling. When that probe was installed I put the hot-eby David J - RAMPS Electronics
Apologies - I asked this question in the wrong forum! Ever have one of those days when you can't get something to work right, even though you're sure you're doing everything correctly? I'm having one of those days... My equipment is: Prusa i3 (much modified) Arduino/RAMPS 1.4 Marlin (configuration.h file attached) Originally this setup was working very well, using an inductive probe for selfby David J - Firmware - mainstream and related support
QuoteDavid J 'Handbrake' is quite a decent video editor - available on Linux and (I believe) most other systems. Oops - I meant 'Openshot Video Editor' - but only available on Linux I believe, unsure about other systems. It's free, by the way.by David J - Delta Machines
'Handbrake' is quite a decent video editor - available on Linux and (I believe) most other systems.by David J - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 Apologies for the poor quality, I'm not used to making videos. A tripod is a wonderful device... (only teasing)by David J - Delta Machines
This is what I might have a play with... The red bit is an oilite bearing like this one, set 3mm into the printed part (yellow) - although I'd probably try to find a cheaper source! The hole in the printed part would have to be a snug fit as these bearings are impregnated with oil and almost certainly ungluable. I could make something in phosphor bronze or steel that could be glued, but I'd raby David J - Delta Machines
I've been having a few random thoughts overnight - how well would an 8mm bearing run on a well-turned metal ring? Would it last a decent amount of time in the context of a delta printer's rods? I was thinking of metal tubes fitted over 3D printed pegs in the rod carriers and effector plate. The builder would probably need a lathe (I have two!) to make decent tubes, unless something could be bby David J - Delta Machines
At the risk of sounding like a traitor to the CherryPi cause - wouldn't it be easier and cheaper to fit Traxxas ball joints on the rods, as on the Kossel? I have heard that they have their own problems (usually caused by wear) but they do sound like an answer to this particular problem...by David J - Delta Machines
I realise that it's a bit basic (I have no shame!) but already I have found it far easier than the original system. It took me just a couple of minutes to fit the belt after attaching each new rod carrier to the carriage, which is a massive improvement over the original system. After all, this is the way that all the belts on my Prusa i3 are fixed, and they haven't shifted in the past umpteenby David J - Delta Machines
So here is my alternative rod carrier: Thingiverse 846838 It is a remix of the excellent work by maso27 - he created the original alternative rod carrier in OpenSCAD, which I then modified to incorporate the belt fixing posts. Modifying his code was easy as it was very well written and well commented. Please note that my changes account for about 5% of the total code, and the rest is down tby David J - Delta Machines
Doug, They're the standard ones - they've been a source of frustration for me from the beginning. I've decided to have a go at designing something more straightforward in OpenSCAD... something simple like a post to loop the belt around, fixed with a cable tie. if that fails, I'll take up your offer! Thanks, Davidby David J - Delta Machines
Aargh!!! It never rain but it pours... While fiddling around trying to check the printer's geometry, I had to unhook the GT2 belt on one of the columns - and now the damn thing won't stay put when I try to replace it. The problem is that the 2 sides of the slot in the rod carrier have been wedged apart due to the belt tension, the slot is now wider, and now the belt teeth slip over each other.by David J - Delta Machines
Hmm - the printer's definately got a slight tilt. I didn't need to measure it, as I can clearly see the difference in sensor height going from front to back in the Y plane. Now I've got to do some checking to see if I can identify the cause... I guess it's going to be: * towers vertical * rod lengths equal * rods parallel in all positions on the bed Anything else?by David J - Delta Machines
I hear what you're saying, and it makes sense - it's a strong possibility. I'm currently making parts to fix my heatbed glass down firmly, and once that's done I can start investigating the geometry. My effector plate is not the standard one, so it's always possible that there's an error in its design; in the original part designed by Maso, the probe tip is the sensing point so any errors are iby David J - Delta Machines
For a change, today I have Cherry Pi question rather than a Duet one (I think). My printer is now fully wired and running - there are a few details to sort out, such as devising a way to fix the print bed glass in place, but generally there's nothing more to add. Now I've noticed a problem: when I print a small cube everything is OK, but if I print something thats 6 or 7 cms across the bed theby David J - Delta Machines
I'm on 1.04f, but I can't remember where I got the config file - I'll update it ASAP, and also sort out bed.g. Are there any advantages to upgrading to 1.09a? Or shall I stay on 1.04f for now? Thanks again.by David J - Delta Machines
Getting back on topic - for info, I have just successfully used one of these IR sensors on blue painters' tape, for printing PLA onto a cold bed.by David J - Delta Machines