Quotedougal1957 I just can't get to grips with Open Scad at all just totally aliegn to me but can do the majority/Basic stuff in Freecad maybe need to try and get to grips with Open Scad but finding the time is not easy!! I find it reasonably easy - but I have had many years of coding in various languages in the past, so the form and structure of the code is second nature to me. The only down-by David J - Delta Machines
I think it's reasonable to assume that they should be at the same level - they define the height of each tower, and thus the home position. But if anyone has a more accurate answer then I won't be offended!by David J - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 I'm glad you got it all working! I've never tested the differential IR probe on blue tape, but I guess it must work OK. Could you possibly publish your Z probe mount on Thingiverse or eleswhere, so that I can link to it in the fitting instructions? I wasn't sure about the blue tape, but I gave it a try anyway. Moved the effector towards the bed, and it registered. It returned the rigby David J - Delta Machines
SUCCESS AT LAST!! (sorry for shouting, I'm happy! ) You may recall that I was having some problems a little while ago: At that point I decided that I was fed up with Arduino/RAMPS, and splashed out on a Duet board. Later on I also bought an IR Z-probe from dc42, to make printing easier. Here is my first attempt after wiring everything up: I am very happy with this result, considering thaby David J - Delta Machines
What are you trying to power using this PSU? I have a heated bed that takes about 11 Amps, a hot-end heater that takes around 3.5 Amps, and I found that trying to power these and drive the motors from a 203W XBox power supply would cause the PSU's LED to briefly flash red, which meant that the control board would reset. Replacing the XBox PSU with a 30 Amp alternative fixed the problem. The moby David J - RAMPS Electronics
Quotedc42 BTW for anyone who has already received one with the new firmware, at startup it flashes the LED twice to let you know it is in digital mode, or four times to let you know it is in analog mode. David, A quick request for clarification from someone who's being chronically thick this afternoon: Am I right in thinking that 2 flashes = digital = simple on-off switch, for use with somethby David J - Delta Machines
For PLA I used to use hairspray on the glass - I presume that the IR detector can cope with that? (no different to a smear of stick glue, I guess). ABS juice was also successful.by David J - Delta Machines
Thanks David. I think that an IR probe for my Prusa is a distinct possibility, as currently I'm printing onto an aluminium heated bed covered in kapton tape and it's a pain to replace the tape. I used to print onto glass, but I needed the aluminium bed to allow use of an inductive sensor. I prefer printing on glass... and if I want to put kapton tape on a sheet of glass it's much easier to remby David J - Delta Machines
Mine's coming along, but I hit a brick wall with the RAMPS setup - I just found it a PITA to set things up nicely. Fitting a Duet board made things neater and easier to manage, but I keep thinking of things to add such as the Z-probe, tidying up the power wiring, fitting a power controller for the heated bed, and so on - I've gone from 'just about finished' back to 'I'll get it finished soon'!by David J - Delta Machines
Quotedougal1957 This may help Duet Proximity sensor wiring Doug Thanks Doug - same diagram, but a lot bigger!by David J - Delta Machines
Z-probe received - small, isn't it! Quotedc42 I've made a firmware change and some component changes, in order to provide automatic switching between digital and analog output. After power up, the board now waits 4 seconds to allow the printer electronics to initialize everything, and then senses whether or not there is a pullup resistor on the output pin. If a pullup resistor is found, it provby David J - Delta Machines
I have a pair of those crimping pliers from HK - they are very good value for money. I think I have some 2-way housings & pins - I just need a few headers.by David J - Delta Machines
Thanks - gives me something to aim for (really, I just need any miniature 2-way plug and socket to allow me to remove stuff if necessary).by David J - Delta Machines
Quick question for anyone who might know the answer: When you buy small 12v cooling fans like this they usually come with a small connector on the wire. It seems to be the same connector regardless of whichever little fan it is. Does anyone know what this connector is called? I want to buy the matching half to tidy up my wiring.by David J - Delta Machines
That makes sense. The board will be in a recess, but adding a cover will be trivial. One final question (for now!) - is it ok to use ordinary wire to connect to the Duet board, or should I consider screened cable? Ordinary wire would be easier...by David J - Delta Machines
Excellent news - I'd better get my mount finished! My mount will protect the back of the board from the hot end (hopefully!) as it will be quite close. However, the component side will be open - is it a good idea to cover the component side of the board to exclude light, or isn't it an issue? It's no great problem if it should be covered - it will be easy to add it to the design.by David J - Delta Machines
More information than I expected! That's excellent - the info will give me a chance to create something in openSCAD in anticipation of the board's arrival. I'll also draw up a cover to go over the top.by David J - Delta Machines
David, I'm busy designing a bracket to mount the board on my CherryPi delta when it arrives. Could you tell me the spacing of the 2 mounting holes? And what is their diameter? Thanks, Davidby David J - Delta Machines
My V6 heatsink is also barely warm when running normally (e.g. 240C at the hot end for ABS). I would wire the fan to permanent 12v, even if that's from somewhere off the board. Also, make sure that the fan is blowing air into the heatsink, not trying to suck it out. Usually this means that the fan's label is facing the heatsink. It shouldn't make a difference... but it does!by David J - Printing
Dumb question #1 - do you have the colling fan running all the time? Not under the control of the RUMBA board? The reason for asking is that my genuine E3D hot-end also seized up when the fan failed; these hot ends have to be cooled all the time that the printer is on, not just when the control board says so. (If this is a dumb question, and you do have your fan permanently wired and screwed onby David J - Printing
David, I was just pressing the thermocouple firmly against the block/bed. I wasn't expecting a perfect result, just a reasonable indication. This method does work quite well on my RAMPS-equipped Prusa though. Am I right in thinking that the H and L values are correction factors for adjusting the readings at the High and Low ends of the scale? If so, I might have been making my adjustments incby David J - Controllers
My Cherry Pi delta has an E3Dv6 hot end and a heated bed. Each has the same thermistor - Semitec 100kOhm NTC Thermistor. (104GT-2). When I had a Marlin board these were set up as thermistor type 5, and this setting returned a reasonably accurate temperature. Now I have a Duet board, and I'm having some difficulty with adjusting the settings so that I get accurate temperatures (I'm checking wby David J - Controllers
I've fitted Pointy's effector that allows me to fit the E3Dv6 with its standard fan - this means that the base of the effector is only about 5 or 6 mm above the nozzle tip. I've also tried moving the effector to the limit of its movement and the space between the rods will be very close (or slightly less) than 25mm - too tight to be comfortable.by David J - Delta Machines
Mine is a standard Cherry Pi, so no problem with space for this board. I'm using an XBox PSU so that has to stay outside. This morning I tried to get the heated bed up to 110C, and the MOSFET (or whatever the device is next to the connector) was getting uncomfortably warm, almost painfully hot (so was the cable to the bed - something else to change!). I think I'll be fitting a SSR (or equivaleby David J - Delta Machines
I must say that it's a lot easier to wire up the Duet board in a tidy manner, unlike the old RAMPS board! Basic movements and settings are going well so far.by David J - Delta Machines
A question for dc42 (or maybe anyone else who has a Duet board): I'm looking for somewhere to plug in my E3Dv6 hot-end fan, which should be a continuous 12v at low current. Looking at David's wiring, he has a plug on pins 31 & 35 of the 'motors and extruder loom' header (31=GND, 35=E0 V+) - is this a connector for a fan? It's the connector right next to the extruder motor and X end-stop coby David J - Delta Machines
I held mine by hand - it's a real struggle to stop the mill digging in. I wouldn't put it into any sort of electric drill - hand-held or a drill press - as everything would happen too quickly. If you have a drill with a removable chuck then that would be ideal for manually turning the mill (as Doug said). Take the chuck off, insert the ball mill, GENTLY turn the mill by hand in the hole. Slowby David J - Delta Machines
Be VERY gentle with it - they are very sharp and tend to dig into the plastic if you're not careful.by David J - Delta Machines
Quotecdru QuoteLarsKWhy is alu foils so much better then plain alu sheet? No idea, so much to learn.Aluminum foils don't dissipate the eddy currents as quickly as aluminum plate, so the sensor can detect the material better. Interesting...by David J - Controllers
I agree - we need a "print 1 layer, move to the side and pause for a few seconds before starting the next layer" function.by David J - Slic3r